hey guys ....
what do you guys think i should do.
i blew my b18b motor (ran dry... no oil), should i install a used b18b or b20b ?
i have a b16 tranny W/ LSD
and some bolt on's
I wont be doing anything else to the car

thanks guys

 

B20B definalty more torque= more happiness

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by g0tgot &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">B20B definalty more torque= more happiness</TD></TR></TABLE>
i know what ur saying... BUT... what about the hp

b18b --&gt; 142HP@6800 127FTLB@5200

b20b ---&gt; 126HP@5400 133FTLB@4300


is that 6lb of tq worth losing 16hp ?

 

b20z is 146/133 and if you find one with a p8r head, that flows WAYYYY better than the pr4 head.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dohcMONSTER &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">b20z is 146/133 </TD></TR></TABLE>

I know... i would love to get one but here in toronto i can't find any
damn it

 

I only like the b20 because of its torque, other then that I'm not a fan unfortunately.

Even if its b20vtec, b20vtec turbo, or all motor b20vtec, not a fan.

And I've ridden in a b20vtec, very fast, but not convincing enough to build one.

 

you will be much better off with the LS motor if you dont have any future plans and if your debating between a LS and B20 you obviously dont care about being the fastest car in the world... so I would just go for whatever one is cheaper.

 

I've currently got a low-compression B20B in my car, with a ported PR4-3 head [yes it's a bastard frankenstein, I bought the car this way].

Even with the S2 Pro-Series manifold, 68mm throttle body, and DC-Sports 4-1, the car barely keeps up with a stock high-mileage GSR on the track. I've been beat by several mild-bolt-ons LSs.

I blame tuning for this, but even at my ~4000' elevation, I've only run a 16.94@78, with a 2.3 60'. At Las Vegas, I would imagine this car could pull a 16.4 or 16.5 easily.

That being said, if you were to build a B20 right - fresh bearings, ARP hardware, ~11.5:1cr pistons, Crower 404s - you could have yourself a very strong powerplant on your hands.

My personal opinion? LS motor. They're higher compression, first off, and secondly, they can be had for next to nothing. Not to mention they can take the abuse of your average Ford Taurus rental car, and still make power for 250,xxx miles.

To paraphrase:

B20B - needs work to make a performing motor, but oh-so worth it if you take the time to build it.

B18B - Cheap, easy to find, unbreakable [almost], especially if tuned right.

 

ya i think it's best if i just do a b18b
thanks for the help guys

 

b20
i really like mine...

 

my b20 came with PHK pistons from the factory wich raises to 145hp 133tq at a 9.6-1 compression.......it all depends on what you get....and the P8R head is EXTREMELY RARE... like less than 1% production from 1996-1999 in some station wagon thing in japan....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by g0tgot &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my b20 came with PHK pistons from the factory wich raises to 145hp 133tq at a 9.6-1 compression.......it all depends on what you get....and the P8R head is EXTREMELY RARE... like less than 1% production from 1996-1999 in some station wagon thing in japan....</TD></TR></TABLE>

how much did you have to pay compared to an LS?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by g0tgot &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my b20 came with PHK pistons from the factory wich raises to 145hp 133tq at a 9.6-1 compression.......it all depends on what you get....and the P8R head is EXTREMELY RARE... like less than 1% production from 1996-1999 in some station wagon thing in japan....</TD></TR></TABLE>


That's the b20Z right ?

 

Yes, he's talking about the B20Z. Found in the top-model Honda Step Van in Japan only.

I've done some price-searching online, and found the average LS longblock runs about $350 locally, where the B20B runs around $550. The B20Z, what little I've found in the way of purchasing one, you'd be looking at ~$680.

My suggestion, if you're getting a B20, is as I had said before ... put the money you save on a B20B into the internals, and it will produce more power [in most cases] than a B20Z of equivalent cost.

- edit -

With building a B20B, I would say a nice 10.0:1 piston set, new hardware, fresh bearings, a thin metal head-gasket and port-work, would net a reliable 155bhp. That could still be daily-driven on pump gas, no sweat.

Also keep in mind, you can use the USDM B20B4 in CR-Vs, they are the 8.8:1 block, same as most B20Bs found in Canada and Europe.