Turbo H22A4 Prelude is sputtering??? Need HELP!
I just rebuilt my motor because recently water was getting into the cylinder. I got everything hook up and the car starts up and idle fine. I can rev all day long in neutral and drive it in low rpm but when i hit the pedal past 4500 it starts to sputter. I don't believe it has anything to the with the turbo system or the boost controller. I disconnected the air lines to the boost controller and it still sputters. What else can it be?
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can it be the IAB valve? I read in the book when the engine is off the valve is close, but when you start the car and it idles it suppose to move. I try starting and shutting of the engine but it doesn't move????
will it not moving with the car on or off. my cousin has a 92 prelude h22 and his is not moving either. i jack up his car and we rev it past 6k to 3rd gear and it doesn't move either. idk????
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prelude1911 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">will it not moving with the car on or off. my cousin has a 92 prelude h22 and his is not moving either. i jack up his car and we rev it past 6k to 3rd gear and it doesn't move either. idk????</TD></TR></TABLE>
Man, you guys don't really know what you're doing. Look at the IAB diaphragm when the car is off and have someone start it while you watch the diaphragm. You will see them snap shut when the engine starts.
And I hope you're not running 17psi on a stock block....
Man, you guys don't really know what you're doing. Look at the IAB diaphragm when the car is off and have someone start it while you watch the diaphragm. You will see them snap shut when the engine starts.
And I hope you're not running 17psi on a stock block....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prelude1911 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and the block is resleeve. bottom end is built.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have same problem, get a new dizzy. TRUST ME, there is notthing you can change in the dizzy to fix that, I learned the hard way and ended up buying a new dizzy off ebay. that solved it for most part, the last step is a good tune.
WTF?!?
you can fix anything inside a dizzy, but this does not sound like a distributor problem, it sounds like a tune problem.
you can rev it in neutral because there is no load and you make no boost. when you get it in gear it starts to boost and it sounds to me like you have a major problem with the tune on it.
take it to church and see what they say, it doesn't sound like you have the tools or knowledge necessary to fix this.
you can fix anything inside a dizzy, but this does not sound like a distributor problem, it sounds like a tune problem.
you can rev it in neutral because there is no load and you make no boost. when you get it in gear it starts to boost and it sounds to me like you have a major problem with the tune on it.
take it to church and see what they say, it doesn't sound like you have the tools or knowledge necessary to fix this.
i have a fuel pressure gauge install on my aem fuel rail and the pressure reading 26 psi. with the vacuum hose disconnected from the regulator and pinch it reads 28. the honda factory books says it suppose to be 40-47 psi. im thinking the fuel filter is clog or the pump went bad. bad i just put in a new walbro fuel pump less then 10k miles ago. what do u guys think?
try the fuel filter. its cheap anyhow. Or atleast pull it out, clean it, and see what comes out of it. if its dirty as ****, than replace, if not reuse it, and keep looking
well change the fuel filter and the pressure was still the same. I adjust it to between 40-47 but the car still sputter. iono know what else it can be. i'll take it to church auto 2rw and see wat they say.
the problem wasn't the fuel filter. i took it back to church auto and they said i was running to rich. well it made 322 whp n 307 tq. i need to cut out the cat and hopefully it will make a lot more power!
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