so im almost done changing my clutch on my 01 base. ive got one bolt left holding the tranny to the block and here are the questions ive got.

1. whats the best way to position the tranny jack? as you know, there is no plane area to get good lift on.

2. when removing the upper rear bolt that connects the tranny to the block, ive got no space to get anything other than maybe a stubby wrench in there. but how can i get any leverage? any tips?

stay tuned for more......... thanks again for the help

 

first time i removed tranny (drain bolt loose, no oil, bye bye tranny), i was the jack. dropped it on my chest lol, and hefted it back up, bench press style. SUCKED.

second time, to change clutch, used tranny jack. came across that problem of no flat surface to get lift on, so i wrapped a ratcheting strap around the tranny, after i'd placed it on the jack, in a position to lift straight up and push onto input shaft. worked great. you can use a chain too.

as far as that bolt, if i'm thinking of the bolt you're talking about, its the upper bolt closest to firewall? i think i loosened up the rear mount (jack supporting motor), and lifted the motor up/tilted it forward to get to it. i'm pretty sure that's what i did, it's been a while

hope any of that helps

 

hmm, so thats why my jack stand had the rachet strap . i took it off because i thought it was in the way.

but im still unsure about getting to that last bolt hold the tranny to the block. its right near where the oil cooler line comes out of the water pipe.

 

if everything is lined up with the main shaft and all your pilot bolts are in, then i dont see what problem you are having. Takes alot of work doing it yourself. Tell your girlfriend to get her hands/body dirty

 

Why are you having clearance problems on the upper rear bolt? I've never had any clearance issues on the upper bolts, but you have to use a wobble on the lower bolts around the rear engine mount bracket.

I just position the trans jack under the transmission right in the middle. If you're using the type of trans jack with a chain to hold the trans in place, sh*t can the chain. Go get a ratcheting tie down. That works the best to hold the trans firmly in place on the jack.

 

im trying to remove the housing without pulling the half shaft off. its probably not a good idea, but i had soo much trouble with the lower ball joint on the passenger side, that my head hurts. so i just popped it away from the housing. its about an inch out right now.

but i cant get to the damn bolt, and i think thats half the reason i dont have enough clearance to get the last bolt. its one of the two that are on the engine side of the housing, not on the tranny mount bracket.

and what do you mean pilot bolts?

 

Uh, you can't pull the transmission with the driveshaft or intermediate shaft in place. You need to remove both of those. Am I misunderstanding something?

The lower ball joint shouldn't be that hard with the right tools.

 

rust ownz me

 

so i dont have an option? DAMNIT!!!!!!! ive already got to replace my damper fork, and a lower ball joint for the passenger side. we'll see about the driver . man i regret buying my car in NY.

 

i used a car jack and 2 friends. Biggest pain in the *** ever. the rear bolts were hard to get on but after we did, we tighten the front lower and upper bolts a bit and then evenly tightened them in syn. Worked alot better and ensures no stripage of the threads

 

yea man, you gotta pull everything out. Follow my writeup noob

 

You can pull the trans and leave the driveshafts in the hubs, but the driveshafts HAVE to be removed from the trans, same with the intermediate shaft. You need to separate the knuckle from the LCA.

Also drop the front subframe. It gives you a TON of room.

 

you kill me blake . that must be in the "same thing on drivers side", step i was reading it earlier.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 117 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also drop the front subframe. It gives you a TON of room.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i'd love to know exactly how to do this, i've been told to do this before but never knew exactly what bolts/mounts had to be taken care of. probably make it A LOT easier.

 

Remove the radius rods and the 4 bolts holding the subframe in place. You'll also need to unbolt the three front engine mount bolts that go between the bracket and the engine block.

The other thing is you need something to support the block. I use an engine support that spans the fenders and holds the engine from up top.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bluedlude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you kill me blake . that must be in the "same thing on drivers side", step i was reading it earlier.</TD></TR></TABLE>

precisely.

 

well, the drivers side suspension came apart like butter. i wish i could have said the same for the passenger side. so im gonna pass out for a while and get the radius rod out of there later, then ill be able to pull the axle out no prob. i hope i have luck getting to that last bolt now. thanks for the help everyone!

 

thanks again everyone. im solid now.

the flywheel is off getting resurfaced this weekend (wish i had it today). so i should be ready to go by the end of next week. ive got to get a damper fork, a ball joint and some nuts and bolts and ill be good to go. for helping me out.