Can i run 100% water?
can you run 100% water in the summer? i just did a flush and my new radiator is on the way. but i need the car tom. is ok to run it like this for 1 day?
Just keep in mind that boiling point for water is 212 degrees, MUCH lower than a 50/50 solution, and what do you think would happen if the water boiled? It just depends on where that pressure is released first, whether it be your radiator cap or a coolant passage in your block.
I wouldn't run 100% water. If you want to do that, make sure you add some water pump lubricant. The water pump is lubricated by the coolant.
I use 100% distilled water and Red Line Water Wetter in my track car, as traditional coolant is not allowed. Water Wetter includes water pump lubricant. It works fine for me.
I use 100% distilled water and Red Line Water Wetter in my track car, as traditional coolant is not allowed. Water Wetter includes water pump lubricant. It works fine for me.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol blake I need to put that **** about PMs in my sig too
billy what ratio of water to Water Wetter do you use?</TD></TR></TABLE>
it works, plus not being signed up for a long time helps too.
billy what ratio of water to Water Wetter do you use?</TD></TR></TABLE>
it works, plus not being signed up for a long time helps too.
My engine stays right around 180F to 200F with a Fluidyne rad, 100% distilled water, and 1 bottle of water wetter. This is at WOT for 20 minutes in the Texas heat.
I have no coolant lines outside of the engine other than the radiator inlet/outlet. The stock oil cooler has been removed and all coolant lines plugged. I doubt these changes make much, if any, difference in cooling, though.
Note that I do NOT run any ducting or radiator fans. I run a stock thermostat, and a 25 row oil cooler, although the oil cooler probably doesn't do much for the coolant temps.
I have no coolant lines outside of the engine other than the radiator inlet/outlet. The stock oil cooler has been removed and all coolant lines plugged. I doubt these changes make much, if any, difference in cooling, though.
Note that I do NOT run any ducting or radiator fans. I run a stock thermostat, and a 25 row oil cooler, although the oil cooler probably doesn't do much for the coolant temps.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fast_honda »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just keep in mind that boiling point for water is 212 degrees, MUCH lower than a 50/50 solution, and what do you think would happen if the water boiled? It just depends on where that pressure is released first, whether it be your radiator cap or a coolant passage in your block.</TD></TR></TABLE>
water under pressure has a higher boiling point. that's why the coolant system is sealed.
water under pressure has a higher boiling point. that's why the coolant system is sealed.
My understanding is the water pump is lubricated by the coolant (water, water/coolant, water/water wetter). If you run straight water, there is no lubricant for the water pump. You can buy water pump lube to add to 100% water, but I'd just use water wetter from Red Line.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lmananT »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">will it rust or corrode the block with 100% water?</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lmananT »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">will it rust or corrode the block with 100% water?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The amount of water wetter is so little compared to the entire cooling system that I doubt there is much boiling temp difference between 100% water and 100% water + water wetter. Maybe 3 to 5 degrees F.
50/50 Coolant/water will raise the boiling temp about 11F. The pressure alone adds a whopping 40F to the boiling temp, so by far the pressure is the important of the two.
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/cooling-system3.htm
I cannot run any coolant due to rules, and my engine has no problems cooling, but I use a large Al radiator too.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93sivtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For the short time no,It could if just water is used for a long period of time.Definately use water wetter or coolant in the summer,water alone will not stand up to the summer heat.</TD></TR></TABLE>
50/50 Coolant/water will raise the boiling temp about 11F. The pressure alone adds a whopping 40F to the boiling temp, so by far the pressure is the important of the two.
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/cooling-system3.htmI cannot run any coolant due to rules, and my engine has no problems cooling, but I use a large Al radiator too.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93sivtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For the short time no,It could if just water is used for a long period of time.Definately use water wetter or coolant in the summer,water alone will not stand up to the summer heat.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fast_honda »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just keep in mind that boiling point for water is 212 degrees, MUCH lower than a 50/50 solution, and what do you think would happen if the water boiled? It just depends on where that pressure is released first, whether it be your radiator cap or a coolant passage in your block.</TD></TR></TABLE>
but when u pressurize the water the boiling point goes up. Therefore your boiling point is no longer 212
but when u pressurize the water the boiling point goes up. Therefore your boiling point is no longer 212
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Osokwik
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Feb 22, 2004 08:45 AM






