When the motor was cutting out the power completely and then coming right back on-line after a couple seconds, I figured it must be the distributor as this is a common problem with integras.

I installed a brand new Distributor King distributor, new Acura wires, and new plugs. It runs fine on the street, but after about 4 laps or so at VIR, same thing happens.

All power is lost and the check engine light stays on and is solid. Not other lights in the dash come on. If I lift throttle and get back on it, then all power is completely restored. The CEL does not stay on.

I was able to data-log one of those sessions so I will upload that to Hondata's forum, however, when looking through the recording, I could not find any codes being stored.

Could a MAP sensor or perhaps a TPS sensor cause this?

 

I hope you get this sorted out, Kev.

 

Hmmm that's hard without a code...

I'm sure one of the vets on this board can offer some insight into your problem.

Do you think it's related to the JRSC? I would also speak with rmcdaniels, dude knows his ****.

 

I had a similar problem, turned out to be a bad ground. Check all your grounds, specifically the thermostat ground, and the negative to body ground.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by neo_ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had a similar problem, turned out to be a bad ground. Check all your grounds, specifically the thermostat ground, and the negative to body ground.</TD></TR></TABLE>


I agree.

 

What were you doing THE MOMENT before it happened? Cornering? Trace steps... I had something similar happen, turned out to be the Igniter. A clip had backed out a bit...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Circuit Star-29 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What were you doing THE MOMENT before it happened? Cornering? Trace steps... I had something similar happen, turned out to be the Igniter. A clip had backed out a bit...</TD></TR></TABLE>

I am hard on the gas. A couple to a few seconds later is when all power goes out... Only on straights at full throttle. I have a completely new distributor on

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by neo_ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had a similar problem, turned out to be a bad ground. Check all your grounds, specifically the thermostat ground, and the negative to body ground.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I did that the last time this happened. I even made a new battery ground. Everything checks out....

 

Sounds like fuel...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Circuit Star-29 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sounds like fuel...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Fuel wont set a code. I think its a bad tps or a tps out of adjustment.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rene M &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Fuel wont set a code. I think its a bad tps or a tps out of adjustment. </TD></TR></TABLE>


True....

What if its something to do with the power to the fuel pump? I can imagine that sending a code.

 

Definitely check the TPS. I had a near identical problem in my hatch. It will most likely get worse over time and eventually any time you go over a certain throttle amount or rpm the engine will completely shut down until you drop back down below that point. Good luck.

 

hmm, I was convinced that it was the boost cut. The boost cut is set at 9 psi, and I have a 7.5 psi pulley. I don't know if 9 psi could be seen in spikes though.
I will definately consider the TPS sensor.

The next track event, I will take a spare TPS, spare MAP, and change the boost cut individually until the problem is gone