Ok, so going from a 63/37 weight distribution of my prelude, I've tried to do anything I could to even this out. I've relocated my battery to the very very back of the car and I got a carbon fiber hood. I've left my trunk lid stock to keep the weight in the back. I've also removed a small attachment of the front reinforcement bar which looks like a small cylinder attacked to the inside of the front bumper. Also ceramic headers.

Does anyone have any good guestimates on what my weight distribution would look like now?

Anything else I could possibly do to lighten up the nose?

Also, I'm considering getting new springs in the rear to compensate for this new balance. The original spring rates on the Tien Flex for the Prelude is 10kg/mm for the front and 6kg/mm in the back. I was thinking of switching out to 10/8. What do you guys think?

 

what year is your lude. as far as i know the 4th and 5th gens were not that far off in the distribution

 

Why? Do you roadrace?

What do I think? I think you are chasing after a goal that doesn't mean anything.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AndyD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why? Do you roadrace?</TD></TR></TABLE>

That was my question

Why so concerned about weight distribution? The Prelude handles pretty well as it is especially with some suspension upgrades like springs, shocks, swaybars and tires.

There's not much in the back of a Prelude to start with, so if you really want to even it out you're going to need to take everything you can out of the front and leave the back stock or add some weight there (like what you did with the battery).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hawkze_2.3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

That was my question

Why so concerned about weight distribution? The Prelude handles pretty well as it is especially with some suspension upgrades like springs, shocks, swaybars and tires.

There's not much in the back of a Prelude to start with, so if you really want to even it out you're going to need to take everything you can out of the front and leave the back stock or add some weight there (like what you did with the battery).</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah I do road race actually. I'm trying to get my car to be neutral. When I first got my car (2000 Prelude SH) it oversteered. And it continued to oversteer as I fixed up my car. However my latest mods (Carbon fiber hood & Battery Relocation) have caused it to understeer. So I'm looking to get harder springs in the back to get it to slide neutrally.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kelvinchau25 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yeah I do road race actually. I'm trying to get my car to be neutral. When I first got my car (2000 Prelude SH) it oversteered. And it continued to oversteer as I fixed up my car. However my latest mods (Carbon fiber hood & Battery Relocation) have caused it to understeer. So I'm looking to get harder springs in the back to get it to slide neutrally. </TD></TR></TABLE>

So the 60-70 lbs lost from the front really changed it that much? I think a much easier way for you to affect the oversteer & understeer is sway bars. You could also go back to a stock hood and that would put you right inbetween where you are now with the weight distribution.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hawkze_2.3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

So the 60-70 lbs lost from the front really changed it that much? I think a much easier way for you to affect the oversteer & understeer is sway bars. You could also go back to a stock hood and that would put you right inbetween where you are now with the weight distribution.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea, I've already got sway bars. Sway, Strut, Tie, camber, bushings, everything you could think of for suspension. Just looking for a little more now.

 

im on flex with 10k/8k rates
:thumbsup:

 

You can rip off that crossmember and put traction bar instead off it, remove AC, Power steering, brackets and front motor mount if the rest of the mounts are upgraded.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kelvinchau25 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yea, I've already got sway bars. Sway, Strut, Tie, camber, bushings, everything you could think of for suspension. Just looking for a little more now.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, If you have everything already then you don't need anymore stuff. Just do adjustments with what you have...something's fishy here

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hawkze_2.3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Well, If you have everything already then you don't need anymore stuff. Just do adjustments with what you have...something's fishy here </TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly! There's more to it than just bolting every aftermarket suspension part to your car. You need to know how to adjust them to work in your favor, otherwise that's alot of cash to drop for parts that don't really do anything better than stock!

Get it corner balanced.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ludecz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can rip off that crossmember and put traction bar instead off it, remove AC, Power steering, brackets and front motor mount if the rest of the mounts are upgraded.</TD></TR></TABLE>

They make traction bars for my car? How about Tubular A-Arms?

Know where I can get these?

 

Another question, currently, the rear right end of my frame is a little... off... so I'm running permanent rear right toe out right now. Would it be a better idea to get that streightened out? Or would it be acceptable to run both rear left and right toes equally out. I was told that a slight rear toe out helps out in cornering, but destablizes the car in the streight line and kills the tires. Worth it or not?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kelvinchau25 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah I do road race actually. I'm trying to get my car to be neutral. When I first got my car (2000 Prelude SH) it oversteered...</TD></TR></TABLE>

I can think of about 60 pounds you could remove from up front...

 

I would fix the toe issue first. Roadracing with a car out of alignment can't be fun. Also, I think there may be a powersteering adjustment you can make, I seem to remember reading about it in the manual for the 4th gen.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by typeS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would fix the toe issue first. Roadracing with a car out of alignment can't be fun. Also, I think there may be a powersteering adjustment you can make, I seem to remember reading about it in the manual for the 4th gen. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PirateMcFred &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I can think of about 60 pounds you could remove from up front...

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, I was actually considering that. What would I have to do to get it to be just LSD? I know base model H22 Trannies will work on an SH with a few fabrications. What else needs to be purchased other than an LSD tranny and an intermediate shaft, and grinding down the nubs?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PirateMcFred &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I can think of about 60 pounds you could remove from up front...

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Also, I'm more of an Autocross kinda racer, would it even be advisable to remove the ATTS for that?