Compression test ????
I've been hearing a tapping noise so i figured I needed to adjust my valves, so before I start I try to do a compression test. I disconnected the injectors and took all the spark plugs out and disconnected the distributor, but the engine will not crank over. I went on to the valve adjustment anyway. Now the tapping sounds worse, and I tried again to do a compression test but I still can't get the engine to turn. It still starts, and runs with everything connected. I've read every compression test thread and how to, wtf am i missing??
You might want to start by telling us what vehicle you have, tends to help so we know what your even having problems with.
Second, by unplugging the distributor harness, and the fuel injector clips, there is no way that would prevent your car from just sitting and cranking over, those two circuits are irrelevant to turning over the starter. If you unplugged anything else you did it needlessly.
You might want to tell us how you did the valve adjustment, unless you are doing it how Honda specifies, your doing it wrong, plain and simple.
Second, by unplugging the distributor harness, and the fuel injector clips, there is no way that would prevent your car from just sitting and cranking over, those two circuits are irrelevant to turning over the starter. If you unplugged anything else you did it needlessly.
You might want to tell us how you did the valve adjustment, unless you are doing it how Honda specifies, your doing it wrong, plain and simple.
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From: Rochester, New York -> Santa Clara, CA
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowcivic2k »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You might want to start by telling us what vehicle you have, tends to help so we know what your even having problems with.
Second, by unplugging the distributor harness, and the fuel injector clips, there is no way that would prevent your car from just sitting and cranking over, those two circuits are irrelevant to turning over the starter. If you unplugged anything else you did it needlessly.
You might want to tell us how you did the valve adjustment, unless you are doing it how Honda specifies, your doing it wrong, plain and simple.</TD></TR></TABLE>
He's right, you messed something else up.
Is the battery still connected?
Second, by unplugging the distributor harness, and the fuel injector clips, there is no way that would prevent your car from just sitting and cranking over, those two circuits are irrelevant to turning over the starter. If you unplugged anything else you did it needlessly.
You might want to tell us how you did the valve adjustment, unless you are doing it how Honda specifies, your doing it wrong, plain and simple.</TD></TR></TABLE>
He's right, you messed something else up.
Is the battery still connected?
I know it sounds retarded, but I checked everything like 10 times. I finally got it working, it ended up being like 200 for all 4 cylinders. I still have no clue why it wasnt working before.
would a warmed up engine make the numbers higher? Because it was cold now when I did it.
would a warmed up engine make the numbers higher? Because it was cold now when I did it.
You are supposed to do a compression test on a warm engine, an engine doesn't run cold, it gets hot therefor your motor will need to be hot to be accurate. Expect a 30-40psi difference from cold to hot.
I would find a honda service manual for doing valve lash, Im sure there is a write up in here for it. there is nothing i hate more when people spend assloads of money to do a simple job when they can do it themselves.
I would find a honda service manual for doing valve lash, Im sure there is a write up in here for it. there is nothing i hate more when people spend assloads of money to do a simple job when they can do it themselves.
Compression Test: (please read next time..its not that damn complicated)
- Normal operating temperature
- Disconnect fuel and ignition system..dont want sparks or raw fuel sitting down in the cylinder
- WOT
- Remove ALL spark plugs
- Crank the engine over 4-6 times
- Cylinders should have atleast 120psi.
- Normal operating temperature
- Disconnect fuel and ignition system..dont want sparks or raw fuel sitting down in the cylinder
- WOT
- Remove ALL spark plugs
- Crank the engine over 4-6 times
- Cylinders should have atleast 120psi.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EJ2*Whitey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Compression Test: (please read next time..its not that damn complicated)
- Normal operating temperature
- Disconnect fuel and ignition system..dont want sparks or raw fuel sitting down in the cylinder
- WOT
- Remove ALL spark plugs
- Crank the engine over 4-6 times
- Cylinders should have atleast 120psi. </TD></TR></TABLE>
No, it is 135 psi as stated by the honda service manual. Leave the other spark plugs in their holes, their compression plays a role in the normal operation of an engine since they are all building compression when its turning.
- Normal operating temperature
- Disconnect fuel and ignition system..dont want sparks or raw fuel sitting down in the cylinder
- WOT
- Remove ALL spark plugs
- Crank the engine over 4-6 times
- Cylinders should have atleast 120psi. </TD></TR></TABLE>
No, it is 135 psi as stated by the honda service manual. Leave the other spark plugs in their holes, their compression plays a role in the normal operation of an engine since they are all building compression when its turning.
Wat are you talking about?? The other spark plugs don't have **** to do with the compression of the cylinder you are testing..and you remove all of them so its easier for the engine to turn over and not so hard on the starter.
Yes they do stupid, because an engine builds compression on all cylinders when it is running, thats also the reason for doing the test hot. Their pumping losses play a role in that cylinders ability to build compression. Stop fudging.
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johnzm
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Jul 26, 2004 07:46 AM





