HOW MUCH AIR SHOULD I PUT IN MY 205/40/17?????????????????????????
i have a 96 ls dc2, i have 17x7" rims, with 205/40 kuhmo tires, the website i bought them from says to put 5psi less than the max load which is 44, so i would have to put 39psi. Some people say look at the door jam, it says 29psi in front and back, but i currently have 33 in front and 31 in back is this correct? or how do you put?
If you got the PSI specs from the tire manufacture I would go with what they reccomend. If this just general advice, I would go a little lower than what they say. I'm running the same set-up with 17's as a DD and I think my PSI is around 40.
~Ben
~Ben
You cannot go by what is on the door jam since those numbers are for the tires that were on the car from the factory. Look on the sidewall of the tire.
i forgot to tell you that you want your rear psi higer than the front. it helps correct front wheel drive understeer. 39 up front 43 rear
when u get new tires u put what the manufacturer says. and 5 less sounds about right. i put 38 in the front and back, and the max load is 44. You put less because your tires get hot while u drive. as far as changing the tire pressure to suit your handling needs is up to u. but if ur just driving on the highway i'd go with 39 like they tell u to.
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Wow, so much bad advice has been given here!
39 psi is WAY too high. Anyone who tells you to base your pressures on the maximum capacity on the sidewall (even deducting 5 psi) doesn't know what he's talking about. The maximum capacity is exactly that, and has nothing to do with what pressure is best for handling, road comfort, safety, etc. Recommending that is like saying you should spend all your time driving exactly 10 mph below the maximum number on your speedometer. It just doesn't make sense.
The best place to start, no matter what kind of tires you're using, is with the pressures recommended by the CAR'S manufacturer (on the door jamb and in the owner's manual). Adjust from there in 2 psi intervals based on uneven tire wear and on your personal preference for handling, road comfort, etc.
The pressures mentioned by 96teggynonVtec are almost the same as the recommended pressures for the GS-R and Type R (35F/33R) which are more performance-oriented than the lower recommendations for the base model Integras, so if you're looking for more handling, you might consider those. NOT 39 though.
39 psi is WAY too high. Anyone who tells you to base your pressures on the maximum capacity on the sidewall (even deducting 5 psi) doesn't know what he's talking about. The maximum capacity is exactly that, and has nothing to do with what pressure is best for handling, road comfort, safety, etc. Recommending that is like saying you should spend all your time driving exactly 10 mph below the maximum number on your speedometer. It just doesn't make sense.

The best place to start, no matter what kind of tires you're using, is with the pressures recommended by the CAR'S manufacturer (on the door jamb and in the owner's manual). Adjust from there in 2 psi intervals based on uneven tire wear and on your personal preference for handling, road comfort, etc.
The pressures mentioned by 96teggynonVtec are almost the same as the recommended pressures for the GS-R and Type R (35F/33R) which are more performance-oriented than the lower recommendations for the base model Integras, so if you're looking for more handling, you might consider those. NOT 39 though.
I work at just tires, we normally put 35 all around for all cars unless they are trailer tires or cars that need high pressure tires. honda and acura usually recomment 30-32 psi, but to me i think it is different when you get bigger rims because the side wall on a 65 and a 40 are totally different.
the 40 series would diff be stiffer, *also depending on tires*. . . i have my 205/50/15's set on 35 in front and 37 in rear which gives me optimum because my tires wear out evenly on these psi's too low will affect wear and to high would also.
the 40 series would diff be stiffer, *also depending on tires*. . . i have my 205/50/15's set on 35 in front and 37 in rear which gives me optimum because my tires wear out evenly on these psi's too low will affect wear and to high would also.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxtasy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wow, so much bad advice has been given here!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
nsxtasy got many good points down, too.
I use 35F/33R on my car, but as he pointed out, this will differ so play around with the tire pressures. Don't start off at the maximum pressures though
</TD></TR></TABLE>
nsxtasy got many good points down, too.
I use 35F/33R on my car, but as he pointed out, this will differ so play around with the tire pressures. Don't start off at the maximum pressures though
I had 2-5/4017s and currently im using 33F/35R as well. I kept to to about what Acura recommended.
You want slightly higher pressures with the lower profile tires to protect the wheel, but the max pressure on the tire is way too high. 35f 35r or so should be fine. I think I ran 34 34 way back when.
Here I might as well give you this info to consider along with the rest. I've done a bunch of autocrossing, which basically revolves around fiddling with tire pressures:
Pressure too high: You'll get uneven wear - the center of the tire will wear down faster than the edges. Ride will be stiff. Car will turn quicker but will also break into a slide faster and with less warning.
Pressure too low: Ride will be soft. Your gas mileage will suffer. Handling will be sluggish. You'll get uneven wear - the shoulders will wear out faster than the middle because, as you corner, the tire will begin to fold over a little.
Higher pressure in front compared to back: This will encourage understeer - usually recommended for grannies who are worried about losing the rear end while suddenly lifting off the gas on wet freeway onramps.
Higher pressure in back compared to front: will slightly lessen the tendency to understeer. In all-out aggressive driving, you might even be able to get the back end to step out and rotate little, although tire pressure alone on an otherwise stock Integra isn't going to be enough for that, really.
SO: set some pressures (35 all around is a good starting point), drive it for a while, then evaluate based on wear and on driving feel. Adjust as necessary.
Pressure too high: You'll get uneven wear - the center of the tire will wear down faster than the edges. Ride will be stiff. Car will turn quicker but will also break into a slide faster and with less warning.
Pressure too low: Ride will be soft. Your gas mileage will suffer. Handling will be sluggish. You'll get uneven wear - the shoulders will wear out faster than the middle because, as you corner, the tire will begin to fold over a little.
Higher pressure in front compared to back: This will encourage understeer - usually recommended for grannies who are worried about losing the rear end while suddenly lifting off the gas on wet freeway onramps.
Higher pressure in back compared to front: will slightly lessen the tendency to understeer. In all-out aggressive driving, you might even be able to get the back end to step out and rotate little, although tire pressure alone on an otherwise stock Integra isn't going to be enough for that, really.
SO: set some pressures (35 all around is a good starting point), drive it for a while, then evaluate based on wear and on driving feel. Adjust as necessary.
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Nowhere and Everywhere
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boosted_JDM »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My set-up is :
Front: 25psi
Rear:30psi << Less rolling resistance</TD></TR></TABLE>
That sounds like a straight-line drag race setup. That's definitely not good for daily driving. Tire wear, handling, and fuel economy will suffer.
I was about to post about how much incorrect info is in this thread, but nsxtasy beat me to it.
The car manufacturer's recommended tire pressure is based on the load (weight) put on them. If you change tire sizes but the car's weight remains the same, you need to use roughly the same tire pressure as you did before. The pressure listed on the tire is the MAXIMUM pressure that particular tire can handle and still be safe, regardless of the car's weight.
Also, contact patch area remains the same given the same tire pressure, regardless of tire size. So if you were to go from 30 or 35 psi in stock tires, switch to a wider, low profile tire and pump 40 psi in there, your contact patch area is actually LESS than it was with the stock tire.
I personally hate how shops will automatically put 35 psi in all tires. That just shows laziness and irresponsibility IMHO. FWD cars usually have higher pressure in front because of the front-biased weight distribution, as well as to impart "safer" understeering characteristics.
Front: 25psi
Rear:30psi << Less rolling resistance</TD></TR></TABLE>
That sounds like a straight-line drag race setup. That's definitely not good for daily driving. Tire wear, handling, and fuel economy will suffer.
I was about to post about how much incorrect info is in this thread, but nsxtasy beat me to it.

The car manufacturer's recommended tire pressure is based on the load (weight) put on them. If you change tire sizes but the car's weight remains the same, you need to use roughly the same tire pressure as you did before. The pressure listed on the tire is the MAXIMUM pressure that particular tire can handle and still be safe, regardless of the car's weight.
Also, contact patch area remains the same given the same tire pressure, regardless of tire size. So if you were to go from 30 or 35 psi in stock tires, switch to a wider, low profile tire and pump 40 psi in there, your contact patch area is actually LESS than it was with the stock tire.
I personally hate how shops will automatically put 35 psi in all tires. That just shows laziness and irresponsibility IMHO. FWD cars usually have higher pressure in front because of the front-biased weight distribution, as well as to impart "safer" understeering characteristics.
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