Subs going in and out - not sure whats up.. Please Read!
For the last few weeks, I have noticed my subs going in and out, by this I mean they are alot louder at times and sometimes I can barley tell they are working.
I also notice sometimes, midway through the song, the bass gets alot louder..
I checked the grounds and connections, I cannot figure out whats up!
Any ideas?? Is my amp going bad??
I have 1 10" MTX Thunder 500 in a ported box, with some cheap walmart lightning audio amp..
Does a more expensive amp really make the differnece? It hits hard enough right now, but if I did need a new amp can I just return this one, or should I look for a better one? Its a 2 channel amp but its bridged.
I also notice sometimes, midway through the song, the bass gets alot louder..
I checked the grounds and connections, I cannot figure out whats up!
Any ideas?? Is my amp going bad??
I have 1 10" MTX Thunder 500 in a ported box, with some cheap walmart lightning audio amp..
Does a more expensive amp really make the differnece? It hits hard enough right now, but if I did need a new amp can I just return this one, or should I look for a better one? Its a 2 channel amp but its bridged.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by m1ndless »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">noticed my subs going in and out....I have 1 10" MTX Thunder 500 in a ported box</TD></TR></TABLE>
So what is it, subs or sub?
Bridged...one channel could be taking its output to 0v (possible lack of signal) while the other channel is still driving the sub. That would mean 1/4 the power of the bridged setup. Check your rca cable. Also, move the rca jacks on the amp around while it's playing and see if the bass gets louder/quieter when moving the jack. Could be a bad connection there.
So what is it, subs or sub?
Bridged...one channel could be taking its output to 0v (possible lack of signal) while the other channel is still driving the sub. That would mean 1/4 the power of the bridged setup. Check your rca cable. Also, move the rca jacks on the amp around while it's playing and see if the bass gets louder/quieter when moving the jack. Could be a bad connection there.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by m1ndless »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I checked it out today, and as I twist the RCA cables, the bass goes in and out, so should I run some new RCA cables? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Umm...yes? But first check the bass fluid. Its right next to the Vtec resovoir.
Umm...yes? But first check the bass fluid. Its right next to the Vtec resovoir.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by m1ndless »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">with some cheap walmart lightning audio amp.. </TD></TR></TABLE>
As was said before, you can't put walmart and car audio in the same sentence.
You can either open up the amp and resolder the connection, or get a better amp.
As was said before, you can't put walmart and car audio in the same sentence.
You can either open up the amp and resolder the connection, or get a better amp.
Lightning Audio is lower quality version of Rockford Fosgate, right? I heard lightning audio can make good stuff.. and this amp hits really hard.
I will keep an eye out for a new amp I guess..
I will keep an eye out for a new amp I guess..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by m1ndless »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I checked it out today, and as I twist the RCA cables, the bass goes in and out, so should I run some new RCA cables? </TD></TR></TABLE>
a) if the rca cables don't sit snug, sqeeze the outer sleeve(negative) with a pair of pilers and if the center positive pin has a slit in it, use a knife a pry it apart slightly. if you suspect it's the rcas not making good contact, you could tweek yours before spending the money on a new pair.
b) is it a single vc or double and how ohms is each voicecoil?
a) if the rca cables don't sit snug, sqeeze the outer sleeve(negative) with a pair of pilers and if the center positive pin has a slit in it, use a knife a pry it apart slightly. if you suspect it's the rcas not making good contact, you could tweek yours before spending the money on a new pair.
b) is it a single vc or double and how ohms is each voicecoil?
I have no idea.. I dont know crap about car audio really. I installed everything myself..
Here is the amp I have right now..
http://walmart.scosche-cars.co...92559
CEA-2006 Compliant
Number of Channels: 2
85 Watts x 2 @ 4-Ohms
125 Watts x 2 @ 2-Ohms
250 Watts x 1 @ 4-Ohms bridged
Total Power: 250 Watts
Max Power: 750 Watts
Bridgeable
Crossover Controls: High-Pass / Low-Pass / All-Pass
Crossover: Variable from 50Hz - 500Hz
Tone Control: Variable 12dB @ 50Hz
Low Level RCA: 150mV - 4V
High Level: 1.5V - 10V
Power Input Connector: Screw Terminal
Power Wire Gauge: Accepts bare wire or spade terminal
Speaker Output Connector: Screw Terminal
Speaker Wire Gauge: Accepts bare wire or spade terminal
Remote Control Remote Bass Boost
Visual Indicators: Protect / Power
Circuit Topology: Class A/B
Frequency Response: 15Hz - 20kHz
Signal-to-Noise Ratio: >70dBA
Channel Separation: 50dB
2 H x 11.25" W x 11.25 D
Here is the amp I have right now..
http://walmart.scosche-cars.co...92559
CEA-2006 Compliant
Number of Channels: 2
85 Watts x 2 @ 4-Ohms
125 Watts x 2 @ 2-Ohms
250 Watts x 1 @ 4-Ohms bridged
Total Power: 250 Watts
Max Power: 750 Watts
Bridgeable
Crossover Controls: High-Pass / Low-Pass / All-Pass
Crossover: Variable from 50Hz - 500Hz
Tone Control: Variable 12dB @ 50Hz
Low Level RCA: 150mV - 4V
High Level: 1.5V - 10V
Power Input Connector: Screw Terminal
Power Wire Gauge: Accepts bare wire or spade terminal
Speaker Output Connector: Screw Terminal
Speaker Wire Gauge: Accepts bare wire or spade terminal
Remote Control Remote Bass Boost
Visual Indicators: Protect / Power
Circuit Topology: Class A/B
Frequency Response: 15Hz - 20kHz
Signal-to-Noise Ratio: >70dBA
Channel Separation: 50dB
2 H x 11.25" W x 11.25 D
Yes Lightning Audio is a subsidiary of Rockford Fosgate, but the quality isn't as good. I have had a LA amp and it screwed up, took it to best buy got it exchanged. That one the rca connections popped loose from the board. Took it back and changed it for a real RF and have not had any problems since. This was back before I knew jack about car audio, but the RF amp is still running strong six years later. I also paid about three times more then they wanted for around the same stats LA.
It's looking like you may have found your problem but I wanted to add my .02. What temperatures are you running the amp in? I ask because at work my car obviously sits outside all day long in the sun...when I go to leave, if I have it turned up fairly loud after about 15-20 min of constant bass it will cut in and out every couple of bass notes and I found it to be due to the heat because if I flip the backseats down and let air pass through it will never do it and it doesn't do it in the evening/cooler times/days. Just thought I'd mention that.
That's even a little higher than what my situation happens at, if possible try driving around with it at night and see if they cut in and out and see if it happens. Then also during the day, if you have any kind of flip down back seats, put them down and let the air flow around your car with the windows down and see if that helps, just for trouble shooting purposes.
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Feb 7, 2006 07:15 PM



