Engine going out on me?
what's up honda techs'. First timer here. My H22 engine over heated on me 3 times to red. I found out it was a stupid heater hose. Replaced it. The engine temp is fine until I drove it 140 miles away from home, of course it over heats
This time it was the thermostat. Got that fixed. Everything is fine again. This time i drive it 80 miles away from home with a/c on going 80-95 mph none stop. As I was going home I could feel the engine getting extremely weak. Stomping on the gas @60+ mph on 5th feels very weak. Is the engine going out? My friend said it could be spark plugs but i replaced plugs and wires and it still feels the same. Any help would be appreciated. THNX
This time it was the thermostat. Got that fixed. Everything is fine again. This time i drive it 80 miles away from home with a/c on going 80-95 mph none stop. As I was going home I could feel the engine getting extremely weak. Stomping on the gas @60+ mph on 5th feels very weak. Is the engine going out? My friend said it could be spark plugs but i replaced plugs and wires and it still feels the same. Any help would be appreciated. THNX
How does it drive other than 5th gear on the highway? Stomping on the gas at 60mph in 5th is not going to much even on a perfect H22...hell you could take 2nd past 60.
Ya sorry to forgot to note, I did the plugs, wires, cap n rotor, but no adjustment yet. I've notice that in all the gears as I take the engine up to 4k and beyond the engine slightly stutters and the power isnt there anymore. Even vtec feels weak.
Yeah man, sounds wack, but the same thing happened to me with my 94 h22a1. I was losing HR like if i didn't even have vtec. THen i had the bottom end checked out and found out my crank shaft was cracked and it was causing my engine to lose compression n oil pressure...check everything man...
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mafia »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my cuzins 97 SH has same problem... I think its the ac taking power away (when its on) </TD></TR></TABLE>
air conditioning tends to do that...on all cars
compression test time man,
then take it from there
its the least you can do after you abused that poor defenseless motor
air conditioning tends to do that...on all cars
compression test time man,
then take it from there
its the least you can do after you abused that poor defenseless motor
Thanks for the input/info guys. I'll be doing a compression test soon and i'll post up the results. If it's the bottem going out, is it possible to use Type S standard size pistons and any other rod on the bottom? In addition, will the aftermarket rods have any effect to the stock FRMs? I'm sure the OEM type S piston wont ruin the FRMs, just not sure if the rods will have an effect. Any feedback is appreciated
All right. I done a valve adjustment and checked my compressions. Here's my compression test results: #1: 197 PSI, #2: 180 PSI, #3: 181 PSI, #4 188 PSI. This is a totally bone stock 1996 H22A1 in '92 Honda Prelude Si. I have no idea what PSI should be at for normal stock H22s. Still no idea what could be causing this power loss or struggle. Could it be something from the spark department or fuel department. Any info would help.
Thanks
Thanks
Most compression tests are inaccurate from what I've read, as far as what the numbers mean in comparison to other people.
The important thing is that all the cylinders are within a reasonable amount of psi of each other. (I've seen +-13psi a couple times)
Also, many people run eagle rods.
The important thing is that all the cylinders are within a reasonable amount of psi of each other. (I've seen +-13psi a couple times)
Also, many people run eagle rods.
ill throw this out there jsut a thought, plugged up cat?? If youve ever driven w/ one it feel like the engine is trying to go but can and feels like your dragging an anchor behind you..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AaronW »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Most compression tests are inaccurate from what I've read, as far as what the numbers mean in comparison to other people.
The important thing is that all the cylinders are within a reasonable amount of psi of each other. (I've seen +-13psi a couple times) </TD></TR></TABLE>
this is true, all gauges are different...as long as the numbers are within like 10-15% of each other then youre ok
get a vacuum gauge and do some research on some of the tests you can do with it...for example you can drive with it hooked up and test for a clogged cat
The important thing is that all the cylinders are within a reasonable amount of psi of each other. (I've seen +-13psi a couple times) </TD></TR></TABLE>
this is true, all gauges are different...as long as the numbers are within like 10-15% of each other then youre ok
get a vacuum gauge and do some research on some of the tests you can do with it...for example you can drive with it hooked up and test for a clogged cat
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