okay i have been trying to decide for a while now what to do i have a 93 dx coupe that i swaped a b16 into now im in a strugle between slightly building the b16 and turboing it or just usingthe tranny i have and get an h22a withthe h2b conversion kit and turboing that... but if i do the h2b im not going to do the rods or pistons kinda just wondering if the h2b and the b16 will be fairly matched after all is said and done even though i wont be able to push as many psi in the h22 as the b16 and the b16's red line is so much farther than the h22...? i also have been looking for some time threw the forums and havent seen any thing about how the h2b kit handles turbos. i have yet to see any one who has posted a forum on the subject if any one knows of one please let me know so i can read it ,thanks. im basically ready to either order a **** load of parts for the b16 and start the build or buy a h22 and some parts... some suggestions would be nice... thanks not totally sure if this should be in this section of h-t ...
FOR THE B16
cp pistons/ and rings
eagle rods
ferrea valves
blox springs /retainers
4 750 injectors
255 walbro fuel pump
hondata s300
clutch
drive shaft/axel kit
gt3037r turbo
i/e/h

 

Just build and turbo the B16. H2B swaps are a lot of work cramming that thing in there. Honda was on crack when they designed it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ABCVTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just build and turbo the B16. H2B swaps are a lot of work cramming that thing in there. Honda was on crack when they designed it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, they weren't, they're actually just as easy as any other B to B swap or D to D swap.

They were never designed to be put into civics until companies came out with custom mounts for them.

H22 = prelude motor.
Civic =/= Prelude

So if somebody tried to swap an NSX engine into their civic it would probably prove quite difficult, but Honda wasn't on crack when they designed it - it's a very good engine - it's relatively (not as easy as B's or D's IMO) easy to pull out and put back in...but putting it into a civic is a different story.

Same with the H22.

...

@ OP:
H2B-T FTW!

On stock ints you can make some nice power. Just remember if you wanna push it past stock ints you're gonna need to sleeve the block b/c new rings don't seal well to the composite walls that come stock on the H22.

EDIT:
Or just buy an F22 block - those sleeves are solid - you can just put new ints on them w/o sleeving it - but you'd wanna sleeve it soon anyways depending on how much power you plan on pushing..but whatever, that's your call.

 

i know there is a lot of b16 bashers out there but i tend to like my b16 but i dont wanna short change my self... the h2b turbo seems like a great concept but i have yet to see one can any one help me find one that is turbo...? ive pretty much read all the h2b forum...no turbo!!

 

why is it so important for you to see one that is turbo? I f you want to boost then just boost!!! look up user sohcturbocoupe he's turbo H2B......

 

And h2b can easily put you in the mid 12's without FI.

A b16 will need boost and lots of $$$ to get in the 12's.

It's an easy decision, and the "work" to get the h2b in as stated above is 10 seconds with a hammer on the framerail, and 2 minutes with a makita on the block.

A little more work for a 2.2 liter sub 13' civic.

Like I said, easy choice if you have the option.

For a street car an h2b alone will be enough with some good cams, and bolt ons.

Though if you are going FI i'd go f20b because of better cylinder wall casting.

It's externally the same as an h22. It came in the UK torneo/accord

 

Buy a good enough turbo for a H22.

Boost your b16 with it until it blows then have enough money for a H2B and all you will need is a different manifold. Maybe injectors.

H2B definately worth it for the money.

 

Why waste the money on the H? You've already got the B16, so work with that. The money saved can be spent on better components and tuning.

 

I'd stick with the b16 just because of the weak cylinder walls that the h series have. Or you could do as ek forever guy said and go f2b, which is somewhat the same with stronger cylinder walls.

 

Ok but now lets talk about sending your block off to sleeve it. B16 now is a what 1.8 liter maybe????

Why not send the H block and end up with a 2.3 liter or more.

Or get the H23 block with H22 head and have fun.

NA is better for me.

Or H22 with F22 crank and rods?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by t0p_sh0tta &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why waste the money on the H? You've already got the B16, so work with that. The money saved can be spent on better components and tuning.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

get a gsr short block and put ur b16 head on it and call it a day

 

^ why b16 head??? lower compression...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blu3g &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd stick with the b16 just because of the weak cylinder walls that the h series have. </TD></TR></TABLE>

the cylinders are not weak

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doood &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
the cylinders are not weak</TD></TR></TABLE>
Turbociviccoupe made good numbers on stock internals on his H.

An h2b with bolt on's/tune will be plenty fast enough for a street car and still be impressive at the strip.

 

ya that was my thinking behind keeping the b16 was its more money so put into it...the money i save from getting the h2b i could sleeve the block or buy a dart block....

 

actually i thought if i were to keep the b16 i would buy a dart block and do rods and pistions so i can push more boost.... but if i get the h2b i will still turbo it just run it at a lower psi on stock internals....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ohio_twin_ser &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">actually i thought if i were to keep the b16 i would buy a dart block and do rods and pistions so i can push more boost.... but if i get the h2b i will still turbo it just run it at a lower psi on stock internals....</TD></TR></TABLE>

But the price it takes to make a b16 almost as fast as an h2b will end up being more.

It's just going to be more money now, or later.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek forever guy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

But the price it takes to make a b16 almost as fast as an h2b will end up being more.

It's just going to be more money now, or later.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Get a pad of paper, sit down, price everything you want to do to each motor based on parts you have that can be x-fered and calculate. Something tells me you are going to drop more money into building the B16 for turbo than you would purchasing an H22 + a H2B kit and using your B16 tranny. If you went H22 you might find that its fast enough for the meantime and you wont want/need to dump money on a turbo right then and there.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95ProjectEJ1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Get a pad of paper, sit down, price everything you want to do to each motor based on parts you have that can be x-fered and calculate. Something tells me you are going to drop more money into building the B16 for turbo than you would purchasing an H22 + a H2B kit and using your B16 tranny. If you went H22 you might find that its fast enough for the meantime and you wont want/need to dump money on a turbo right then and there. </TD></TR></TABLE>

best advice in this thread so far.

 

I would say sit down and figure out what your goals are as far as whp and or torque. I have a stock internaled b16 that I am going to boost. Hope to get 300+whp. I was going to get a block and sleeve it but found that its not really necessary unless your looking for more than 600+ whp. I found a itr block, ls crank, I purchased wiseco pistons and eagle rods today. I will have a fully built bottom end for under 2g and will be good for a very good amount of boost. Shooting for 400-450 maybe more. Itall depends on how you drive and what your going to use your car for. Mine is not going to be a daily driver so to spend that kind of money on sleeves is pointless especially for the street, just my .02