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Eliminating CKF Sensor. Has anyone done this?

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Old Jun 1, 2007 | 06:07 PM
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Default Eliminating CKF Sensor. Has anyone done this?

I'm not 92whtgsr. I'm hijacking my son's account. Here's the deal. I'm getting a JDM B18C1 from HMO on Monday, and it's going in my 96 (OBD2a) GSR. I'm using my US ECU, which is looking for a Crank Flucuation Sensor. HMO suggested swapping the US oil pump with it's CKF sensor in to the JDM motor. My old motor has a lot of miles on it, and I don't feel like buying a new oil pump. I just read an article http://technet.ff-squad.com/ckftrick.htm which explains how to trick the ECU by sending the CKP signal to the CKF lead instead. Has anyone else tried this?
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Old Jun 1, 2007 | 07:52 PM
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Default Re: Eliminating CKF Sensor. Has anyone done this? (92whtgsr)

it's a shame you got the older engine...

at any rate, the ckf trick detailed by katman on that site you linked works just fine.

you will also run into a problem because the vtec pressure sensor is non-existent on the engine you are getting and your US ecu will look for that, however you can probably swap to the US vtec solenoid from your old engine.
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Old Jun 2, 2007 | 12:17 PM
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Default Re: Eliminating CKF Sensor. Has anyone done this? (builthatch)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by builthatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it's a shame you got the older engine...

at any rate, the ckf trick detailed by katman on that site you linked works just fine.

you will also run into a problem because the vtec pressure sensor is non-existent on the engine you are getting and your US ecu will look for that, however you can probably swap to the US vtec solenoid from your old engine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

why not just chip the ecu and turn off all of that crap?
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Old Jun 2, 2007 | 09:03 PM
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Default Re: Eliminating CKF Sensor. Has anyone done this? (richard7968)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by richard7968 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

why not just chip the ecu and turn off all of that crap? </TD></TR></TABLE>

or spend no additional monies, use the US ecu like he said he was, and do the bypass.
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Old Jun 15, 2007 | 03:17 AM
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Default Re: Eliminating CKF Sensor. Has anyone done this? (builthatch)

I ended up buying a USDM oil pump (my old one had 156k on it), and swapping my ckf sensor, timing cover, and VTEC controller. Runs like a champ, and no codes! For the record, this motor was built in 96 just like my old one. JDM just doesn't run the ckf. It's not an "old motor"
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Old Jun 15, 2007 | 06:43 AM
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Default Re: Eliminating CKF Sensor. Has anyone done this? (GSR4door)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSR4door &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I ended up buying a USDM oil pump (my old one had 156k on it), and swapping my ckf sensor, timing cover, and VTEC controller. Runs like a champ, and no codes! For the record, this motor was built in 96 just like my old one. JDM just doesn't run the ckf. It's not an "old motor"</TD></TR></TABLE>

im saying it's ashame he got an older engine because it's an obd1 engine. it's older, it's got more years it's been sitting in a yard in japan. if he got an obd2 jdm gsr, it would be 1. newer and 2. be the exact gen his car is. that is not a hard concept to understand, atleast i thought it wasn't.

at this particular time, hmotorsonline does not have any obdII gsr's featured, however at the time this guy posted a while back, they did have them.

this is seperate from the fact that it's not got a ckf because it's a JDM engine.

i do not see why anyone would waste the time and money swapping a perfectly good oil pump when the one on the engine is just fine. just do the freakin' CKF bypass! it works and it's FRREEE

BTW, i have an obd2 jdm gsr in a 97 hatch from...HMOTORS haha
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Old Jun 15, 2007 | 09:02 AM
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I'm the same guy who started the thread. What I'm saying is that the engine I bought from HMO has head casting numbers that indicate it was manufactured 08/96 which is 3 months after my original engine. It's an odbII engine just like my original. HMO gave me the option when I ordered it. I don't even think there was any difference in price. The oil pump was probably overkill, but now I have an engine that will definately pass emission inspections here in IL, and likely anywhere else. My son works for a Honda dealership, so I get the parts with a hefty discount. I also replaced the timing belt and water pump just because it was easier to do with the engine out. Those looked mint as well, but you never know. For the record, I think mine's cleaner.
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Old Jun 15, 2007 | 09:13 AM
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Default Re: (GSR4door)

hmm, for some reason i thought you got an obd1 engine...good move to get the newer one.

well they all look like that on the pallet! unless you clean it again, it'll not look quite as clean after installation, trust me lol

tuned yesterday with apexi power fc-
this is what you have to look forward too if you affix some bolt-on's and tune


i'm glad you see that there is a reason to order from hmotors- his stuff is superior w/o a doubt to alot of the other imported engines out there...

BTW, what did you do about the missing vtec pressure sensor issue? did you swap the old one from your original head?
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Old Jun 15, 2007 | 09:48 AM
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Nice numbers! I don't even see a hicup when the VTEC kicks in. Yea I swapped the vtec controller from my old engine. I've got a coolant leak in the back of the intake manifold that I still have to resolve. I think the rubber line may just have a split in it, and I haven't finished putting the drivers side axle back in so I haven't driven it yet. It sounds nice. I've already got a CAI, 4 into 1 header with 2.5" catco and an Apexi world sport exhaust. I put an ACT lightened flywheel and Exedy clutch in when I did the swap, so I'm anxious to see how it pulls. The old motor had 156k on the clock, so it may have been getting a little tired. I never really noticed. The crank pulley on the old motor came loose and f*&ked up the crankshaft. I then proceeded to snap the bolt off in the end of the crank trying to remove it, which was why I had to replace the motor. When I did the clutch last year, I put a cheap rebuilt flywheel from Autozone on it, and the engine felt really out of balance ever since. I think that's why the pulley came loose.
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