i have an 88 crx w/ dohc zc swap. rececently after changing my clutch and switch ecus, (pm6 to pr4), i realized that pr4 isnt the correct teg ecu, im now running a pg7. after the clutch ecu and changing to castrol syntec, i started having a wierd idle problem. at first the car wouldn't start. after the third try i opened the throttle to keep it running, once i could let off the thottle w/o it dieing its idle bounced between 0 and 500 at first then climbs to 750 and back and forth between 500. it finally idles @750, once i revved it though it would drop to 500 and bounce again, once i got it warm w/ the therm. gauge past the line, i could drive it w/o it dieing when i push the clutch in to stop or just hold the clutch. the more i drive and the hotter it gets, the better it runs, if that makes any since. i cleaned my iacv, bleed my coolant, reset my ecu and it still does this. one of my co-worker's brother, who is big on hondas here in tyler, suggested to me that i might need a new iacv, either way he said i could take it to his shop and his ppl could tell me whats wrong and how much it is to fix it. if it is just the iacv, i dont need to pay extra for labor. can any1 confirm this? or have any insight on my problem?

 

try putting the pm6 back in

 

when i finished w/ clutch and change the ecu to pr4 i rode on it w/ that, i noticed that its revv was still limited to 65, and i learned that wasnt the right ecu i switched for the stock pm6, it still did the same thing still. just recently i got that pg7, that ecu is the one i should be running w/ my swap. the only other ecu i could use is the ZC itself.

 

have you tried adjusting the idle? also, the DOHC ZC has a dashpot on it to control the idle (keeps the throttle plate in the throttle body from going completely closed) - is it hooked up and working?

the PG7 is better than PM6 or PR4

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jlicrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">have you tried adjusting the idle? also, the DOHC ZC has a dashpot on it to control the idle (keeps the throttle plate in the throttle body from going completely closed) - is it hooked up and working?

the PG7 is better than PM6 or PR4</TD></TR></TABLE>

i think i saw the dashpot u were talking about, i took my arm off and looked at the tb, it was slightly open, when i started my car i noticed that the throttle was open a little more because of what i think u called the dashpot.

is the hex screw on the passenger side of the iacv where i'm suppose to adjust the idle? i turned it a lil bit, i think loose, i think i might have warmed up quicker, and it wasn't as hard to keep from stalling. normally it takes a REALLY long time to warm up.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWD1V

would this work, it looks just like my iacv. just in case. btw mine doesn't have that screen that i've seen in the ones i've seen researching.

 

That hex nut holds in the spring for the IACV, I don't really think you're supposed to screw with it. If you want to adjust the idle, there is a screw on the top of the TB that you can turn. You will notice the dashpot on the TB, it's on the front side, is held on by two screws and has a short vacuum line attached to it... kinda looks like a UFO.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gRim06 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWD1V

would this work, it looks just like my iacv. just in case. btw mine doesn't have that screen that i've seen in the ones i've seen researching.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not sure if a B-series one would work, although it does look similar. The bolt patterns may be slightly different.

 

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wiZCo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That hex nut holds in the spring for the IACV, I don't really think you're supposed to screw with it. If you want to adjust the idle, there is a screw on the top of the TB that you can turn. You will notice the dashpot on the TB, it's on the front side, is held on by two screws and has a short vacuum line attached to it... kinda looks like a UFO.</TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jlicrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"></TD></TR></TABLE>

thank you for clearing that up for me. is there suppose to be a screen inside the left hole of my iacv(iacv unbolted view of reference)?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wiZCo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Not sure if a B-series one would work, although it does look similar. The bolt patterns may be slightly different.</TD></TR></TABLE>

and the answer from the seller is no

 

is there suppose to be a screen inside the left hole of my iacv(iacv unbolted view of reference)?

anybody?

 

Have you checked for vacum leaks and your tps sensor? Both would cause that.

-Chris

 

how would i check for leaks and that tps? the only code im throwing is 6, coolant temp.

 

anybody?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gRim06 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is there suppose to be a screen inside the left hole of my iacv(iacv unbolted view of reference)?

anybody?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The one that came with my ZC didn't have it, the one I just put on did. Not sure if it's supposed to be there or not, it probably just keeps the valve from getting dirty.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gRim06 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how would i check for leaks and that tps? the only code im throwing is 6, coolant temp.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Vacuum leaks can be tested for by spraying water (like out of a mist bottle) around the intake mani and seeing if you get a drop in RPM. If you do, that's where your vacuum leak is. the TPS needs to be calibrated. Follow the procedure in a repair manual.

BTW that Code 6 may be causing you some problems. Replace your CTS (Single pin connector underneath the CYP sensor) and see if that helps.

 

clogged iacv's are comon on our cars , so many iacv's are missing the screens due to being cleaned out in the past. its no big deal. Just remove the iacv and spray the shat out of it with a can of brake cleaner and let it air out , then re-install and burb the air from the coolant system via the bleeder screw while at idle.
Make sure you crack the bleeder screw open till all the air bubble are gone !

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rex-Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">clogged iacv's are comon on our cars , so many iacv's are missing the screens due to being cleaned out in the past. its no big deal. Just remove the iacv and spray the shat out of it with a can of brake cleaner and let it air out , then re-install and burb the air from the coolant system via the bleeder screw while at idle.
Make sure you crack the bleeder screw open till all the air bubble are gone !</TD></TR></TABLE>
done that.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wiZCo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The one that came with my ZC didn't have it, the one I just put on did. Not sure if it's supposed to be there or not, it probably just keeps the valve from getting dirty.

Vacuum leaks can be tested for by spraying water (like out of a mist bottle) around the intake mani and seeing if you get a drop in RPM. If you do, that's where your vacuum leak is. the TPS needs to be calibrated. Follow the procedure in a repair manual.

BTW that Code 6 may be causing you some problems. Replace your CTS (Single pin connector underneath the CYP sensor) and see if that helps.</TD></TR></TABLE>

how do i locate the CYP? im not sure what it is.

 

did i mention i am throwing code 6? i've read another post where this was the case but after an engine swap, this happend to me after changing clutch, oil, and ecu to pr4 from pm6(im now running pg7). the problem on the post suggested the ect was the problem. i've been told to clean the iacv, replace it, vaccum leak, tps, dashpot, i've cleaned the iacv, holding off on replacing, the dashpot is fine, im not sure how to cal. tps, im gonna use the spray bottle to check for vaccum leak, anything else i should look at?

 

You dont use water to check for a vac leak. The first thing to do is a hook a vac gauge up to the intake manifold and you will see if you are low on vacume that way you arent chasing ghosts. If you do find you are low then you use PROPANE to test for leaks, not water. 17-22 at idle is a normal reading.

Have you checked your CTS yet?


Modified by white90rexsi at 6:47 AM 6/4/2007

 

i had a code 6 last thursday. it was idling weird, sometimes would not go into vtec,and surging power. i replaced the coolant temp sensor and its fixed.
I had all kinds of problems in the past like no starts weird idle problems stalling surging that were all fixed when i replaced the main relay.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gRim06 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did i mention i am throwing code 6? </TD></TR></TABLE>

A bad CTS can cause a bad idle. Try cleaning the connectors and checking the wiring first, see if it clears the code. Again, it's underneath the CYP Sensor.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gRim06 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
how do i locate the CYP? im not sure what it is.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's the sensor on the front passenger side of the head, it has two wires going into it and says "TEK" on the side.

 

ok the cts is below the cyp which is the little box beside the dizzy, the cts has 2 prongs right? do i take the sensor out to clean or do i just clean the connectors?

i believe this is my problem, i haven't started it yet but the cts sticking out from the head has nothing connected to it, i saw the 2 prongs, i found the wires that have my o2 sensor connected and remembered that when taking out my tranny we found that there was i wire we didnt know where it belong, therefore causing my problem. thnx for all the help. if i continue to have problems i will reply to this post.

 

Good to hear, let us know if it fixed your problem

 

yep started right up, no idle bouncing, the idle raising passed 1000 is normal right? just to warm it up fast?