i'm having a problem with my iab's, i dont think they're opening at 4900 like they should, i tried revving it past 5k and looking at the actuator on the side of the intake manifold but it didn't move, it always stays closed. when i pull the vacuum off the diaphram the little arm moves back and when i put the hose back on it goes back to the way it was, it just doesn't do this on its own and its pi$$ing me off, any ideas would be appreciated.

 

well the fact that the disphram is staying closed means your vacume source is good. and the fact that you pull the vac hose off and they open is also good. it means its a wiring problem. there would be no cel for non functioning IAB. IF you can't fix the problem just pull the vac hose off so you can get peka power in vtec. low end will suffer though

fix the wiring problem

 

yeah i've had the vacuum off for a while and never really bothered but the lack off lowend has started to annoy since my friend got a 3 litre v6. has anyone else had this problem, i want to go look at the wiring but i dont know were to start as i dont have the wiring diagrams

 

Use the vacuum box from your stock intake resonator. That what I had to do

 

I hate those 3ltr v6's

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by InvaderTrax &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Use the vacuum box from your stock intake resonator. That what I had to do</TD></TR></TABLE>
is that the box next to the battery that controls the resonator in the front fender? because i took that resonator out and i have a capped vacuum line just lying there.

 

That's the one. The line goes into a black box near the battery/under the intake, and the line goes back to the vacuum nipple next to the TB

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by InvaderTrax &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's the one. The line goes into a black box near the battery/under the intake, and the line goes back to the vacuum nipple next to the TB</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks man, i followed the vacuum lines back to the box like you were talking about and there are two electronic actuators to control the vacuum, one for the IAB's and one for the resonator, the one for the IAB's was just hanging in free space and i think it is non-functional so i used the actuator for the resonator instead to control the IAB's, this has worked and i now have my topend back. i think the one that hanging may not be working because its not actually attched to the chassis anymore (bracket is broken) and there might be a problem with it being able to ground itself when 4900 is reached, just an idea but its all i could come up with!

 

i have the same problem, iab system not working. how did u use the resonator vac. box,( intake control solenoid valve)?. cuz it only has 3 nipples. the vac. box for iab has 4. my iab system isnt doing anything, and i have no vaccum on vac. line 13 coming off diaphragm. gotta be that iab box im thinkin..so how did u hook it up?

 

i removed my resonator box from the front fender after fitting a CAI, the vacuum line that went to the diaphram within the resonator (for the butterfly) was left unused after the removal so i just capped it off, so when i figured out that the solenoid for the iabs wasn't working i took the unused vacuum line like invadertrax said and hooked it up to the iab diaphram, i revved it past 5k and the iabs opened up ,problem solved. when you pull the vac line of the iab diaphram (when the engine is running) does the little actuator arm spring forward or does it not move?


Modified by pizzamanprelude at 1:32 PM 5/30/2007

 

doesnt move

 

you can try the vac line from the resonator if you want but you would need to check if thers's vacuum in that line to, there should be vacuum there all the time but if you haven't got vac on the iabs i dont know if there will be any vac in the resonator line, if you have then go for it

 

Pretty much sums it up. First thing I'd do is try to move the IAB's by hand to make sure they're not forzen. If they're good, start checking the vacuum hoses to make sure they're good. Just pull them off one by one and blow through them. If air comes out the other side, your problem is either with the vacuum box, or the wiring. If you have a multimeter, set it to DC volts and see if you get anything. It should be 14V below 4800 RPM, and 0 above

 

it worked..i just used intake control solenoid valve as my air bypass solenoid valve ..like u said. thx..same difference right? yea i check them. i had my girl start the car, and the butterflies closed! yay.. then they opened up again at around 4500 rpms...then closed bak up again after letting off gas. so i fixed it right? thats how their supposed to work, right?

 

jus to clear up, if the iab is not working..the butterflies r always open, right? meaning your losing low- end. so fixing this would boost low end torque.? correct? edit- mine r opening around 4200 rpms..a bit low? when should they open? (h23a1). well atleast i got em workin, thx guyz


Modified by LUDE21 at 4:40 PM 5/30/2007

 

They should open at 4800, but, power wise, they make power if they open about 3700. If they're not getting vacuum, they're always open (unless frozen shut). If they're always open, you lose low end power and a little gas milage

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LUDE21 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">jus to clear up, if the iab is not working..the butterflies r always open, right? meaning your losing low- end. so fixing this would boost low end torque.? correct? edit- mine r opening around 4200 rpms..a bit low? when should they open? (h23a1). well atleast i got em workin, thx guyz


Modified by LUDE21 at 4:40 PM 5/30/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah mine open a little lower now aswell like but like invadertrax said, from what i;ve read on here it helps to open them a little earlier anyways. i'm glad i got mine working, i really did miss my bottom end when i left the hose off, made hill starts a real bitch on my clutch.