ok. i did a search. no help. i want to remove my wings west rear lip. its is screwed in by the wheel well, but its held on by double sided tape in the inside (on the rear bumper) how do i take the remainder of the tape after i take the lip off???

 

Special tape and gunk remover. Talk to your local auto detailing shop about their special stuff, or use commercial brand "Goo Gone" type **** if you want. I've only used the auto detail stuff. Don't know what it's called, but it really works well at neutralizing the adhesive, and spares your paint like it should.

 

In addition to speciality adhesive removers, WD-40 works well also.

 

would wd-40 mess up the paint? and also... do i just peel it off? what do i use?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by G0TB00ST &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what do i use?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Gentle force, otherwise you're gonna have an entire day of taking off little bits of tape left here and there. I would suggest doing it right the first time and getting the real stuff, but if someone can vouch for the WD-40, by all means. Myself, I wouldn't take the WD-40 route, but that's cuz I've never tried it, and that adhesive remover is a fair price at your local autoware store.

 

No, it won't damage the paint. You can peel off the tape and then soak the residue with WD-40 or a speciality product to soften it and make it easier to remove.

 

I used a pinstripe eraser to get the double sticky tape **** off from my badges. I just used it wih my drill on a low speed...worked great!

 

would i have to wax the area after?

 

you mite...i just waxed where i removed the tape...It looked like it was never there...just dont hold it in the same spot to long cause there is a chance u can fade the clearcoat

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Padawan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In addition to speciality adhesive removers, WD-40 works well also. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Or brake cleaner.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by G0TB00ST &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">would i have to wax the area after?</TD></TR></TABLE>
1 Adhesive remover + hair dryer (heat helps remove adhesive).
2 Brake cleaner (removes extra hard to remove adhesive).
3 Polish (cleans surface, evens out color).
4 Wax (protects paint and work).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NOFX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Or brake cleaner. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Mike seems to be pleased with the results.

 

Thanks. I know I've had problems in the past with people thinking brake cleaner will harm their paint... I believe they mix it up with brake fluid.

 

ya know how your engine/valve cover looks all clean after a tech is done working on it???????


guess waht we use??? yup brake cleaner spray all over the bay and make the fing thing spotless

 

makes the aluminum look dry as hell tho. when i debadged my truck my dad told me to use gasoline, i was 16 so i dunno if that was smart or not.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ridin98civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">makes the aluminum look dry as hell tho. when i debadged my truck my dad told me to use gasoline, i was 16 so i dunno if that was smart or not.</TD></TR></TABLE>
On clearcoat at least it's fine.

And most textured metal seems to look kind of dry when it's clean.

 

I had some adhesive like that on my car after I took off the DX emblem. I used a hairdryer, some goof off, and a plastic razor-esque scraper thingy that's made for car paint. I found it at autozone I think.

 

try using this thing called a scud thug from snap on if thats too much money then you can get a simular type of device from your local auto body shop and you can use it with any drill it does all the work for you no scrubbing and just use the brake cleaner to loosin it up and to take the emblem off use fishing string or dental floss and just slide it behind the emblem between the paint it will pop right off dont even need to heat it up

 

GO TO SHERWIN WILLIAMS PAINT AUTOMOTIVE
ASK FOR A SMART ERASER PAD (400E) ASTRO PNEUMATIC
ITS ABOUT 15$ HOOK IT UP TO YOUR DRILL
USE LIGHT FORCE AND IT WILL COME RIGHT OFF
BUFF OUT WITH SOME RUBBING COMPOUND
*WORK @ A BODY SHOP , DO IT ALL DAY LONG*

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95b16hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">GO TO SHERWIN WILLIAMS PAINT AUTOMOTIVE
ASK FOR A SMART ERASER PAD (400E) ASTRO PNEUMATIC
ITS ABOUT 15$ HOOK IT UP TO YOUR DRILL
USE LIGHT FORCE AND IT WILL COME RIGHT OFF
BUFF OUT WITH SOME RUBBING COMPOUND
*WORK @ A BODY SHOP , DO IT ALL DAY LONG* </TD></TR></TABLE>

If you don't have a variable speed drill that you can cap at a certain speed, you're likely to burn your clearcoat with an eraser wheel. Those things can be a godsend or the ******* devil.