Does it look like I can retain AC with this manifold? clears PS no problem, my concern is the wastegate placement. Setup will be a d16y7, EK chassis, 38mm WG, t3/t4 turbo

help a brother out

 

I dont think so. Take pitures of the other side. I highly doubt its going to work though

 

Flip the turbo around, looks like it will clear the a/c compressor just fine.

 

i've seen the work you do it looks great. cheap prices too, but i dont have a job lol so i should run the DP and dumptube on the same side and everything should be okay??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by confucioussae &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i've seen the work you do it looks great. cheap prices too, but i dont have a job lol so i should run the DP and dumptube on the same side and everything should be okay??</TD></TR></TABLE>

It honestly depends on how the customer wants it, but usually I run the downpipe on the passenger side, its just easier to clear the compressor with the turbo rather then the downpipe. Sometimes rerouting a/c lines also has to happen, depending on the size of the turbo, and the design of the manifold. You might also have issues with the slave when you run the downpipe. If the car is anything but an ef, with a log manifold we like to stick the turbo a little bit higher ( vertical ) this allows better fitment around the slave.

Thanks for the compliments by the way.

 

okay, thanks for the help

 

I'd say flip the turbo around as well. That's going to be your best chance of clearing AC.

Good luck!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RCautoworks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Flip the turbo around, looks like it will clear the a/c compressor just fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

and if you do that the turbo will damn near be sitting on you hood latch

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mrbsponge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

and if you do that the turbo will damn near be sitting on you hood latch </TD></TR></TABLE>

And like I said its hard to tell from the pics, if its angled down enough it won't pose a problem in that chassis. Its not my manifold either fyi, so I have no clue how the turbo really is positioned, pics are deceiving

 

Here me now believe me later. Even flipped around I don't think it will fit.

 

not gonna fit. with the comp housing on the passenger side it will probably be impossible to get a DP to clear the A/C comp and flipped the other way it will be about halfways through the a/c condenser. the flange needs to be angled down a bit more and over to the left.

 

With the DP on the drivers side, it will barely fit even a small DP. Flipped around, you'll have issues with it sticking out too far, or the DP hitting any AC lines. You'll also have issues getting a filter on it.

 

Nope aint gonna happen

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mrbsponge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

and if you do that the turbo will damn near be sitting on you hood latch </TD></TR></TABLE>

If the downpipe comes out the passenger side you would have to worry about the slave cylinder being an issue, but if you don't go in to close to the block that won't be an issue. I'll agree that the turbo flange should of been placed over more towards the driver side, to allow better downpipe clearance, but I still believe a downpipe can fit on the passenger side.

I think it can clear a/c, will it be a bitch to get a downpipe in there, yes. Might even have to buy a donut to get a tight bend. And like I said, its hard to tell from the pics, it might not be possible, either way its going to be a pain.

Once again though, its not my manifold. Tell him to take a pic with the turbo on the flange, where he is standing right in front.


Modified by RCautoworks at 1:31 PM 5/20/2007


Modified by RCautoworks at 1:38 PM 5/20/2007

 

[QUOTE=RCautoworks]

If the downpipe comes out the passenger side you would have to worry about the slave cylinder being an issue, but if you don't go in to close to the block that won't be an issue. I'll agree that the turbo flange should of been placed over more towards the driver side, to allow better downpipe clearance, but I still believe a downpipe can fit on the passenger side.

I think it can clear a/c, will it be a bitch to get a downpipe in there, yes. Might even have to buy a donut to get a tight bend. And like I said, its hard to tell from the pics, it might not be possible, either way its going to be a pain.

Once again though, its not my manifold. Tell him to take a pic with the turbo on the flange, where he is standing right in front.

The downpipe on the passenger is the only way he can keep power steering and A/C. Also this is in a Ek so there will be no fitment problems with the downpipe on the passenger side, **** I helped a friend install one of those manifolds with the downpipe in the passenger with clearence problems on a EF, this was a 3" DP we did have to grind to make it fit, but in a ek I dont see that issue coming up. We had no problem with anything else such as the slave cylinder and other stuff on the way. Sadly after all that work his car was stolen ....But thats another story.
I think it can work.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RCautoworks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If the downpipe comes out the passenger side you would have to worry about the slave cylinder being an issue, but if you don't go in to close to the block that won't be an issue. I'll agree that the turbo flange should of been placed over more towards the driver side, to allow better downpipe clearance, but I still believe a downpipe can fit on the passenger side.

I think it can clear a/c, will it be a bitch to get a downpipe in there, yes. Might even have to buy a donut to get a tight bend. And like I said, its hard to tell from the pics, it might not be possible, either way its going to be a pain.

Once again though, its not my manifold. Tell him to take a pic with the turbo on the flange, where he is standing right in front.


Modified by RCautoworks at 1:31 PM 5/20/2007


Modified by RCautoworks at 1:38 PM 5/20/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>

have you ever built an A/C compatible anything? theres no way your clearing a/c with any turbo's compressor housing on the driver side of the car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CoreyR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
have you ever built an A/C compatible anything? theres no way your clearing a/c with any turbo's compressor housing on the driver side of the car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep, actually building a log this week that is clearing a/c, and the downpipe is existing on the passenger side . Its very possible, you just got to have a short radius bend on the downpipe. 2.5 inch piping is a lot easier, but we have cleared 3 inch downpipes as well.



With plenty of room to work with, to get a down pipe to go down. Its harder in ef chassis cause you have a crossmember in the way, but anything is possible.



Just tuck the turbo in there, at the right angle to get the best possible room on the passenger side, for the downpipes.





And if a tight radius is needed, donuts are available as well. And if you use the ported flanges, that allows you to place the pipe on a little bit of an offset to all the pipe to snake back towards the driver side.

And if you use the box type flange, that sits the turbo out a little more, you can get away with the turbo sitting even more closer on the driver side, and still clear a/c. Yes a/c lines might have to be bent, or reshaped.



So back to the original topic, can it clear a/c . Yes the manifold and turbo will clear a/c, will the down pipe be a pain in the *** to make, possible, very possible.




Modified by RCautoworks at 7:13 PM 5/20/2007

 

ok bit clears the compressor but id like to see that in the car, ill put money on it sticking right into the a/c condenser (the thing next to the rad.) i always do mine with the comp on the passenger side. pie cuts are your friend

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CoreyR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok bit clears the compressor but id like to see that in the car, ill put money on it sticking right into the a/c condenser (the thing next to the rad.) i always do mine with the comp on the passenger side. pie cuts are your friend
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Pie cuts are ghetto to me, we use donuts if we have to, unless the customer comes out and says to use pie cuts, then we do what ever the customer wants pretty much.

It clears the a/c condenser just fine, it would hit the radiator if anything ( if running a full size radiator )

Here you can see one of them mounted


No condenser, but the thing almost clears the front radiator.

My whole point was, its more then likely it can be made to clear a/c. Its all what the fabricator can do, if the guy really had to, he could relocate the a/c condenser. Sure the manifold maker could of did things differently to make the downpipe easier to make, but it should still clear a/c . That was the original question, I will still say yes, it can be made to clear a/c.





Modified by RCautoworks at 12:35 AM 5/21/2007

 

If you're charging by the hour, or count your time that way, then tig everything, its possible a donut will save money. They seem to be 3x the cost per degree than a 180* mandrel u-bend, but only save about 30% for the overall radius. Pie cuts can be as tight as you can make them.

If you look at that last pic, it shows the turbo flange to the first weld on the left elbow, and that barely makes it with the DP past the AC compressor. The OP's mani is 1-2" over to the driver's side, so likely it will not have a snowball's chance in hell of working w/o some major work.

IMO getting a log that's already set up for AC will be cheaper than saving on this one and paying to make it work, assuming you do get it for cheap.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you're charging by the hour, or count your time that way, then tig everything, its possible a donut will save money. They seem to be 3x the cost per degree than a 180* mandrel u-bend, but only save about 30% for the overall radius. Pie cuts can be as tight as you can make them.

If you look at that last pic, it shows the turbo flange to the first weld on the left elbow, and that barely makes it with the DP past the AC compressor. The OP's mani is 1-2" over to the driver's side, so likely it will not have a snowball's chance in hell of working w/o some major work.

IMO getting a log that's already set up for AC will be cheaper than saving on this one and paying to make it work, assuming you do get it for cheap.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats also 2.5" flared to 3" after the comp. i had a better chance of seeing god then fitting 3" past it. theres no way a center flanged log will clear a/c. maybe with 2" pipe pie cut.

 

i dont have the money right now to risk buying a manifold that doesn't fit AC. i'll save up my money and then take things from there.

thanks for the help everyone
chris

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by confucioussae &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dont have the money right now to risk buying a manifold that doesn't fit AC. i'll save up my money and then take things from there.

thanks for the help everyone
chris</TD></TR></TABLE>



<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you're charging by the hour, or count your time that way, then tig everything, its possible a donut will save money. They seem to be 3x the cost per degree than a 180* mandrel u-bend, but only save about 30% for the overall radius. Pie cuts can be as tight as you can make them.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Pie cuts to me don't look good at all, and I'm sure all those welds in that area are not that great for the piece. If I put my name on the product, I will pay a little more to do it right and let the customer know what the total would be before hand, they usually don't have a problem with it.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
IMO getting a log that's already set up for AC will be cheaper than saving on this one and paying to make it work, assuming you do get it for cheap.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Agree 100%