Your thoughts on my set-up?
Here is my plan, any thoughts or other ideas would be appreciated, I have a b20 block 84.5mm I am looking at CP 12.5:1 pistons with everything else in the bottom end to remain stock, complete rebuild but thats it. For the head I would like to run my fully ported and polished LS head, crower dual valve springs, and crower 403's. I am wondering if this set-up will have a clearance issue (pistons hitting valves)? The reason I am doing this is to get some cheap power that will last about 250 miles of pure pounding. I race this car and the races are only about 10 mins long 15 laps on a 1/3 mile track and I will rebuild after every season. VTEC is illegal in this class or I would be doing LS/VTEC. Any other ideas would be appreciated too. Thanks Chad
You will not have piston to valve issues.
Ever thought of trying to modify a GSR intake manifold to fit?

It gives you a nice broad torque curve

This motor is 85mmx89mm with 11.5:1 compression and is running cams equivalent to 403's. For your application you might want to step up to the 404's.
Ever thought of trying to modify a GSR intake manifold to fit?
It gives you a nice broad torque curve

This motor is 85mmx89mm with 11.5:1 compression and is running cams equivalent to 403's. For your application you might want to step up to the 404's.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b19coupe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You will not have piston to valve issues.
Ever thought of trying to modify a GSR intake manifold to fit?

It gives you a nice broad torque curve

This motor is 85mmx89mm with 11.5:1 compression and is running cams equivalent to 403's. For your application you might want to step up to the 404's.</TD></TR></TABLE>
post a pic of the flange that bolts to the head.
Ever thought of trying to modify a GSR intake manifold to fit?
It gives you a nice broad torque curve

This motor is 85mmx89mm with 11.5:1 compression and is running cams equivalent to 403's. For your application you might want to step up to the 404's.</TD></TR></TABLE>
post a pic of the flange that bolts to the head.
are u planning to pin fit the rods and run stock rods??...becuase i wouldnt reccomend it...it would really help u out if u got new rods
...with forged pistons and some nice rods there is no reason u would have to pull apart the motor every season should last longer then that...all depends on what ur spinning it too...
...with forged pistons and some nice rods there is no reason u would have to pull apart the motor every season should last longer then that...all depends on what ur spinning it too...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MR.johnson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">post a pic of the flange that bolts to the head.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
</TD></TR></TABLE>Trending Topics
b19 coupe is that manifold hard to make work. im not the best at custom fabrication but that looks interesting until i can save for a vtec head. how did you make it work with the secondary butterfies
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4g hatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> how did you make it work with the secondary butterfies?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I used the VTEC output to trigger a relay that shuts off current to the IAB control valve. An added bonus was high and low speed ignition/fuel tables to play with in Hondata
I used the VTEC output to trigger a relay that shuts off current to the IAB control valve. An added bonus was high and low speed ignition/fuel tables to play with in Hondata
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