I need help getting my car run... paypal $ if helped :)
Hey i just recently pulled my engine for a wire tuck/engine shave... and now it wont even crank over. I have a code 20 also (ELD)
Since then i have replaced a lot of grounds, and even added some... but no luck!
If someone has experience w/ this, please help...
no wires were cut for the tuck, the only thing that was changed was the ground location on some headlight harnesses, and i made sure to sand down the connections on anything...
What is the process of diagnosis?

Since then i have replaced a lot of grounds, and even added some... but no luck!
If someone has experience w/ this, please help...
no wires were cut for the tuck, the only thing that was changed was the ground location on some headlight harnesses, and i made sure to sand down the connections on anything...
What is the process of diagnosis?

the ELD is basically just an ammeter (it measures the car's current use while running). BUT, fc 20 can also set if A) you have low charging voltage / weak alternator, or B) if you have idle-speed (low idle) probs. But, basically, the black/yellow wire should
read battery voltage w/ key on (engine running or not); green/red is supplied 5 volts by the ECU, and the 3rd is a ground. How it works is, as loads (lights, etc) are turned on (engine running, of course), the voltage on the green/red wire will drop. i.e. engine hot, nothing switched on, it should read 3v or so; turn the blower motor on High, 1.6-2.0v; everything on at idle, around .5-1.0v. You can check this if you unbolt the fuse box, flip it kinda over, and just probe the backside if its plug. If this all looks good, check idle speed, main fuses, batt / alt condition. (Oh, and the ELD is the box w/ a metal plate going thru it, & connected between the 40A & 80A fuses @ the front of the fuse box, and rt by where the batt & alt lines are connected). Good luck to ya.
read battery voltage w/ key on (engine running or not); green/red is supplied 5 volts by the ECU, and the 3rd is a ground. How it works is, as loads (lights, etc) are turned on (engine running, of course), the voltage on the green/red wire will drop. i.e. engine hot, nothing switched on, it should read 3v or so; turn the blower motor on High, 1.6-2.0v; everything on at idle, around .5-1.0v. You can check this if you unbolt the fuse box, flip it kinda over, and just probe the backside if its plug. If this all looks good, check idle speed, main fuses, batt / alt condition. (Oh, and the ELD is the box w/ a metal plate going thru it, & connected between the 40A & 80A fuses @ the front of the fuse box, and rt by where the batt & alt lines are connected). Good luck to ya.
Put the wires to the started directly from the battery and see if thats gets it to crank at least.
Other than that did you check your fuses Main Relay may be a good idea also.
Other than that did you check your fuses Main Relay may be a good idea also.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DarkBB4 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im gonna try the direct starter signal wire to ignition column next
i replaced the main relay and no luck
also checked fuses..</TD></TR></TABLE>
no theres this plug on your starter that you just put a positive to it stright from the battery and the starter goes you have to have the key in ignition for the car to turn on though I havent personally done this in a honda but i have in a toyota i dont see it being much different.
i replaced the main relay and no luck
also checked fuses..</TD></TR></TABLE>
no theres this plug on your starter that you just put a positive to it stright from the battery and the starter goes you have to have the key in ignition for the car to turn on though I havent personally done this in a honda but i have in a toyota i dont see it being much different.
tried:
3 diff ecus
a different distributor
a different coil
running a direct wire from ignition switch to starter makes it crank, but won't turn over...
gets fuel (wet spark plugs + 30psi at fuel filter)
no spark tho
HELP
this sucs
3 diff ecus
a different distributor
a different coil
running a direct wire from ignition switch to starter makes it crank, but won't turn over...
gets fuel (wet spark plugs + 30psi at fuel filter)
no spark tho
HELP
this sucs
it seems like you got your spark plug wires cross over(not in the right firing order),or check you dist,or your starter...see the motor gotta turn over for the spark plug wires to spark..but if the motor turns and no sparks then its your ignition...lmk if this help
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by e she i »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it seems like you got your spark plug wires cross over(not in the right firing order),or check you dist,or your starter...see the motor gotta turn over for the spark plug wires to spark..but if the motor turns and no sparks then its your ignition...lmk if this help</TD></TR></TABLE>
Agree redo you wires make sure u got the right order maybe even put a timing gun to it see if its off check the distributor wiring see if its untouch and if it has maybe double check the wiring follow the harness see if its been touched before you know has in splicced or something.
Agree redo you wires make sure u got the right order maybe even put a timing gun to it see if its off check the distributor wiring see if its untouch and if it has maybe double check the wiring follow the harness see if its been touched before you know has in splicced or something.
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Feb 23, 2004 10:24 PM



