yea finishing up the project for the prop valve and 2 of the hard lines on the ->R marked side stripped the ones going to the master cylinder, the rest came out pretty easily the donor integra prop valve came off perfect i dunno why im having trouble with the civic ones, any1 else have any problems with this? and how did you guys remove it?

 

bump

 

10mm flare nut wrench... or vice grips

edit : looks like this




Modified by DumpedSi at 5:11 AM 5/12/2007

 

vice grips actually got it to a complete round tube im thinking of just cutting the 2 and replacing the entire hard lines can i get the hard lines at autozone?

 

are u weak

 

yesssir only weigh 205 lbs and can bench 250

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Team RS2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> can i get the hard lines at autozone? </TD></TR></TABLE>

i cant sem to find any premade kits, they just sell straight tubes, no fittings, and i need to flare the ends on em myself

 

dealer maybe for premade lines? Other wise learn how to bend and flare lines.

 

lol but i dont have a tube bender or a falre kit

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Team RS2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol but i dont have a tube bender or a falre kit </TD></TR></TABLE>

autozone

 

didnt get to check it out today but any other idea's? and where can i buy the fitting that i stirrped?

 

 

use the tip(flat part not the round part) of the vise grip and tighten that sucka so when it finally does close you feel tired, then and only then you know it's tight enough. then tighten it first to break it loose then spin it off. if that doesn't work then just cut off the line, then use a compression fitting and run a new line, so you don't have to run a complete new line.

 

make sure u are using the vice grips that arnt straight on each side. They sort of wrap around teh bolt a bit. And pinch it together on teh hardes t setting u possibly can.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SNYPR2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">use the tip(flat part not the round part) of the vise grip and tighten that sucka so when it finally does close you feel tired, then and only then you know it's tight enough. then tighten it first to break it loose then spin it off. if that doesn't work then just cut off the line, then use a compression fitting and run a new line, so you don't have to run a complete new line.</TD></TR></TABLE>

can you elaborate a little more?

 

^ Jaws like this:



and not like this:

 

y not goto a junk yard n remove the hardline from there ?

 

shoulda used a flare nut wrench in the first place and some penetrating oil...

torches also work

but now cut off the line, is it just one of the lines going to the MC? if so, get it off by any means and get a new one form the dealer, they are pretty cheap, pre-bent and all the fittings

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sleepy_Red_hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">shoulda used a flare nut wrench in the first place and some penetrating oil...

torches also work

but now cut off the line, is it just one of the lines going to the MC? if so, get it off by any means and get a new one form the dealer, they are pretty cheap, pre-bent and all the fittings</TD></TR></TABLE>

i used wd 40, and a flare nut wrench. awesome im going to the dealer right now yes the one coming from the mc to the prop

 

cut, remove, get new line from junkyard.

 

heres what i did so i people search and find this then there is an end i didnt throw the car away!

i cut RIGH behind where the threaded part ends, and the brake lines have just enough leverage that i put a new fitting on and flared it and it fits, ps i stripped the back ones not the master clylinder ones like i origanlly thought