BlueIntegraBoy

iTrader: (5)

I bought a flared nut wrench especially for this job and I found out that the fittings are on the prop valve are so tight that the flared nut wrench free spins on the fittings. I stopped before I stripped anymore of the fittings. Is there an easier way of taking the fittings off?

Oh, my intake manifold is in the way of my prop valve and maneuvering the flared nut wrench will be difficult.

JDM_Ej

Sounds like you got the wrong size flare nut wrench. Watch the ones on the prop valve, you definatley dont want to **** those up.

_Cyclone_

Is the fitting you tried to loosen completly stripped now?

BlueIntegraBoy

iTrader: (5)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_Ej &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sounds like you got the wrong size flare nut wrench. Watch the ones on the prop valve, you definatley dont want to **** those up. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I got the right size 10mm

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by _Cyclone_ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is the fitting you tried to loosen completly stripped now?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nope

JDM_Ej

Thats strange. Flare nut wrenches should be perfect for that... did you get a cheap autozone one or something?

litterbox

Nick, same thing happened to me when I swapped out my prop valve. Only way to do it now is to take a vice and clamp it as tight as possible and get it on there.


When using a flared wrench, if the fitting does not break loose on the first effort, it's not gonna happen.

pdiggitydogg

Happened to me too...but I bought a pos wrench...ended up using vice grips

BlueIntegraBoy

iTrader: (5)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by litterbox &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nick, same thing happened to me when I swapped out my prop valve. Only way to do it now is to take a vice and clamp it as tight as possible and get it on there.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I can probably buy one of those small vice grips. The only problem I am worried about is reaching the fittings with my intake manifold in the way.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_Ej &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thats strange. Flare nut wrenches should be perfect for that... did you get a cheap autozone one or something?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I suppose it's a cheap one at $8.99

litterbox

Secret Secret Option C: Cut your lines off as close to the fitting as possible. Then, with the prop valve off, remove the fittings with a vice, then double reflare your hard lines. You'll think they now won't be long enough to reach the prop valve, but they will be when you hand straighten the bends. I seriously considered this.

Secret Secret Option C is incredibly hardcore and I will call you the man if you pull this off.

Archidictus

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by litterbox &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Secret Secret Option C: Cut your lines off as close to the fitting as possible. Then, with the prop valve off, remove the fittings with a vice, then double reflare your hard lines. You'll think they now won't be long enough to reach the prop valve, but they will be when you hand straighten the bends. I seriously considered this.

Secret Secret Option C is incredibly hardcore and I will call you the man if you pull this off.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Or he could not be a complete numb nuts and get the right size line wrench. There's utterly no reason that any of those fittings should strip if you have the right tools. And if it comes down to it, some round-journal vicegrips are your best bet.

litterbox

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Or he could not be a complete numb nuts and get the right size line wrench. There's utterly no reason that any of those fittings should strip if you have the right tools. And if it comes down to it, some round-journal vicegrips are your best bet.</TD></TR></TABLE>We've gone over this budday.

I had a high quality 10mm wrench and mine stripped too, so I left my stock prop valve in until I pulled the engine and could get in the bay to fit a vice grip in there.

Like blueintegraboy said, a small vice might not be maneuverable with the engine there.

Clearly, option C is teh only way to go.

Archidictus

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by litterbox &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">We've gone over this budday.

I had a high quality 10mm wrench and mine stripped too, so I left my stock prop valve in until I pulled the engine and could get in the bay to fit a vice grip in there.

Like blueintegraboy said, a small vice might not be maneuverable with the engine there.

Clearly, option C is teh only way to go. </TD></TR></TABLE>

So you think he has enough room to maneuver a line cutter and flare tools but not enough for "small vicegrips", eh? Unlikely. If you can fit a line wrench on it, you can get some pair of vicegrips on it. Also, hit it with PB blaster the night before if you want it to go more smoothly. This isn't rocket science, fellas.

litterbox

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So you think he has enough room to maneuver a line cutter and flare tools but not enough for "small vicegrips", eh? Unlikely. If you can fit a line wrench on it, you can get some pair of vicegrips on it. Also, hit it with PB blaster the night before if you want it to go more smoothly. This isn't rocket science, fellas.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not rocket science, but a PITA. I think he could use the dremel cable extension to cut the hard lines, yes. I don't think he could even get a vice grip in there to remove the bottom ones, unless it's one of those key chain sized grips.

PB blaster is a great idea.

pdiggitydogg

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Or he could not be a complete numb nuts and get the right size line wrench. There's utterly no reason that any of those fittings should strip if you have the right tools.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok....Tell that to my fittings.
Just because something goes smooth for one person, doesnt mean it will for everyone. Dont be such a jerk man...really...

litterbox

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdiggitydogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok....Tell that to my fittings.
Just because something goes smooth for one person, doesnt mean it will for everyone. Dont be such a jerk man...really...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Both you guys, please do not start getting mad at each other, ruining the thread. There are only senior ppl posting in this thread and if it turns to ****, it would reveal the hipocrisy of what we say to n00bs who thug it out.

exare250

get it hot with a torch.

EE_Chris

For the guys who couldn't get the flare nut wrench to work, you guys ride the short bus too? I kid, I kid...

On a serious note, I'm assuming you guys hit it with some PB Blaster before going at it with Vise-Grips?

chad

SLIGHTLY TIGHTEN the 10mm nuts first....this will "BREAK" them loose....

then loosen them....

that trick will save you....especially on rear LCA 14 mm bolts!

BlueIntegraBoy

iTrader: (5)

I used the flared nut wrench to remove the rear brake lines from the hard lines (10mm as well) and it worked. So don't be calling me a numb nuts when the wrench works for one thing and not the other. It's not my damn fault that I AM using the right tools and it's not working.

chad

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueIntegraBoy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I used the flared nut wrench to remove the rear brake lines from the hard lines (10mm as well) and it worked. So don't be calling me a numb nuts when the wrench works for one thing and not the other. It's not my damn fault that I AM using the right tools and it's not working.</TD></TR></TABLE>

reread my post....you must break it lose...they use locktight on it or something

litterbox

Don't take it personally buddy.

...C...


Hey Chad, you're a post ***** tonight.

chad

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by litterbox &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't take it personally buddy.

...C...


Hey Chad, you're a post ***** tonight. </TD></TR></TABLE>

just trying to help the 05'ers out.....grrrr...there are some stupid ones out there tonight!!

BlueIntegraBoy

iTrader: (5)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by litterbox &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't take it personally buddy.

...C...


Hey Chad, you're a post ***** tonight. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Sorry George, I am not that hardcore.

5w20

my snap-on flare wrench hasn't ever stripped a nut (so far over 3yrs) and ive done many of them

must be the tool

chad

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 5w20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">must be the tool </TD></TR></TABLE> maybe the tool behind the tool??

my craftsman hasn't either...stripped a nut