I usually do my own work to my car but when I went to change the oil pan gasket there were several bolts I couldn't get to and it's gonna be $140 for my mechanic to do it. What all do I need to remove to change it? B/c honestly if it's gonna be $140 and I have all the parts (gasket, oil, filter) then I'd prefer to try again myself. So I'm asking how do I get to the bolts on the passenger side of the oil pan and maybe someone could put a small write up on here?

Thanks

 

You have to remove the flywheel dustshield plate first.

Once you remove that, you can get to the bolts.

 

Let me ask before I say that I thought it was a fairly easy job.. is the flywheel dust plate hard to remove?

 

No I thinks its like 4 or 5 bolts its cake work man

 

Alright, thanks a lot of the help guys.

 

1 more thing, just to make sure, i don't need a sealer of any type do I? Just get the old gasket completely off and then put the new one on right? Making sure I don't tighten too tight.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Booz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1 more thing, just to make sure, i don't need a sealer of any type do I? Just get the old gasket completely off and then put the new one on right? Making sure I don't tighten too tight.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You probably want to put some gasket maker in the "humps" of the pan. Then just torque it down to spec. It's actually a pretty simple job (once you get the flywheel dust cover off ).

 

If you dry sump her now you won't have to worry about this job

You don't "need" a sealer but it's a good idea as WiZCo mentioned.

Not that hard a job just take your time and you'll be ok.

 

So I got some sealant but on the tube it says sealant maker, is there a difference?

 

use Permatex Gray... aka HondaBond.

ALSO, be sure you get at least 2 new oil pan studs from the dealership, incase you break them while torquing down the new oil pan. Just use vice grips to remove the old broken ones.

The Procedure, as I remember it:

1.) Disconnect battery, put car on stands, drain the oil, wear googles and a dust mask &lt;- seriously, its needed for this job.

2.) Remove the lower section of the exhaust manifold before the cat, and the small support bracket on the back of the trans that holds it up

3.) Remove the flywheel inspection plate (dust shield) it is held on with one 12mm bolt and two of the first oil pan nuts you'll need to remove.

4.) go around the oil pan removing all the 10mm nuts... leave two of them loosely on on both sides so it wont drop or bend the lip.

5.) DONT pry your oil pan off with a screwdriver... bump it with a rubber mallet, pull it with your fingers, but DONT pry at its edges.

6.) When it comes off, be prepared to evacuate... a very strong wave of old fuel smell will hit you hard.

7.) clean off the old gasket, including the littel brass rings that might be stuck where it was.

8.) use some carb cleaner and clean the **** out of your oil pickup -- the little thing hanging down from your motor.

9.) put the new gasket on, using Hondabond in the corners, then put the pan onto the studs and hand tighten two screws on to hold it in place.

10.) Going in a criss-cross pattern torque all the nuts down to hand tight, then go once again over them torquing them to 8lbs. The gasket will bulge some in some places, but it should not squish out all the way. If you hear a POP you broke a stud and have to start over.

11.) Reassemble in reverse order etc.

Good luck and be safe!

 

once you remove that stupid exshaust bracket dont even put it back on it sucks.. you dont need it.. its just in the way

 

disconnect the battery? for what purpose?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spoonfedcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">disconnect the battery? for what purpose?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Safety my man.

Trust me, one mistake from leaving it on and you'll pull it every time from then on out.

It takes 15 sec to disconnect, just do it.

 

you dont have to dissconnect the battery for an oil pan gasket that guy is a geek yea wear gloves googles and a helmet to and a rain coat so the oil doesnt get on you

 

very very nice how to!! thanks!!!

and hondacrxturboSI, i wouldnt think twice anymore bout wearing googles and gloves, no clue how many times its saved me.... disconecting batt is always always a smart idea when starting to work on your car, one little thing, and lots of bad can go wrong....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondacrxturboSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">once you remove that stupid exshaust bracket dont even put it back on it sucks.. you dont need it.. its just in the way </TD></TR></TABLE>

Without the lower exhaust bracket, all the load of the header's weight, plus the fore-aft pressure of the exhaust and motor will be on the top of the header... specifically where the primaries meet the flange. That's where headers almost always crack, so I think keeping the lower bracket is a good idea just for the sake of prevention... but yeah, its a pain in the ***!

 

I'm at the point of taking the oil pan off, but the exhaust pipe seems to be in the way? Any ideas? I can't get it over the studs enough to move it out.

 

You have to unbolt the cat from the exhaust manifold and then maybe drop one of the hangers for the rear section.

 

i have a header question about the bracket. sorry not to intrude on ur questions..... i had a perfect exhaust on and then i put headers on and know it sounds like an exhaust leak. i used all new gaskets and the exhaust place doesn't see any leaks can it be from no having that bracket. the headers didn't have on. The noise sounds terriable!!!!!

 

i understand disconnecting the battery when working on something electriclal. especially with newer cars being very suseptible to voltage spikes but jesus christ. do you disconnect your battery and ground urself to the chassis when u change a tire?