pinoyboy204

this is for a 96 civic hatch with a d16y7 motor. does anyone here have step by step pictures on how to remove and replace the gasket? i've searched but found nothing about step by step and i don't have a manual.

civic_driver

remove all nuts from oil pan... remove gasket (might have to use a knife or something sharp to clean both the block and the pan)... use brake clean to clean up both surfaces... wait a bit to get dry... slap on the new headgasket by making sure you're placing it correctly.. put the pan back on... put the nuts back in and torque them using a criss-cross matter...

if there's oil leaking, remove gasket again, put some gasket sealant, and put it back on...

not hard at all... just a pain in the *** with all those bolts on there

pinoyboy204

is there anything in the way before i take all the bolts off the oil pan?

civic_driver

nothing in the way... just drain the oil before you do this

nocturnaldragon

btw the bolts should be at 10 lb/ft

Also you should put a dab of ligued gasket on the corners where the pan curves in.

.Ry

Does the exhaust pipe run under the motor or is that for earlier models?

kKdARIAN

nice bit of info here...

civic_driver

oh yeah, the header pipe.. you might have to remove that if it causes clearence problems.. it sure would make things much easier especially on 5th gens

damnraz

remove the flywheel cover

.Ry

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by damnraz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">remove the flywheel cover</TD></TR></TABLE> why?

VX

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turner7205 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> why?</TD></TR></TABLE>
B/C it covers access to 2 of the 10mm bolts on the side of the pan (passenger side).

.Ry

Not according to my manual for my D16Y8

EJ1 wilcox

On some engines you have to remove the tranny braces as well.

It's a pretty easy job.

- Drain oil
- Remove exhaust header
- Remove tranny braces if you have them
- Remove flywheel cover
- Remove oil pan bolts and nuts. There's like 12 or more of them.
- Remove old gasket
- Clean surfaces
- Install new gasket onto pan, use a bit of liquid gasket on the sharp corners at each end of the gasket
- Reinstall oil pan onto block
- Install all nuts and bolts
- Torque nuts and bolts in a criss-cross pattern (10lbs maybe? or 9lbs? I can't remember, but it's really not very tight, you want the gasket to do the sealing for you)
- Replace flywheel cover
- Replace tranny braces if you have them
- Replace exhaust header
- Fill engine with oil
- Etc...

It might be a good idea to change your oil while you are at it, might as well since you have to drain the oil anyways, just replace the oil filter while you are under there.

Good luck, it's super easy, just a little time consuming.

VX

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pinoyboy204 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this is for a 96 civic hatch with a d16y7 motor. does anyone here have step by step pictures on how to remove and replace the gasket? i've searched but found nothing about step by step and i don't have a manual. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I did this last weekend.

This is what i had to do. But it will differ slightly on other EH/EG trim levels:

After the car is properly/safely elevated enough where you can work under it:

1. Drain oil.
2. Undue the 3 14mm. bolts on the top of the exhaust downpipe where it connects to the exhaust manifold or catalytic converter (CX/VX).


3. Move down the down pipe and undo the 2 pairs of 12mm nuts. and the last pic is the intake manifold bracket that angles in the way of the pan. so you may have to bend it slightly when you drop the pan.

first pair of nuts

second pair of nuts

4. Carefully move/pivot the downpipe out of your way.

5. Remove the 2 bolts that connect the brace/bracket that attaches to the tranny and the downpipe. 1 bolt is 14mm. and the other is 12mm. Remove brace/bracket.

14mm. bolt ^ ^ ^

12mm. bolt pic 1/2 ^ ^ ^

12mm bolt pic 2/2 ^ ^ ^

remove brace ^ ^ ^

6. Then you remove the 2 10mm nuts that are holding the flywheel cover onto the pan, in-order to gain access to the 2 10mm hidden nuts that the flywheel cover is blocking.


Hidden nuts crouching camera.

And this is why you need to remove the flywheel cover. b/c the area is very small to get to those pan nuts/bolts.

7. Now undue all the pan nuts/bolts slowly and back them out in a criss/cross pattern alternating sides so you don't warp the pan.

8. Once the pan is dropped. Just pull off the gasket.

9. When putting a new gasket back on make sure you put some sealant/honda bond on the 2 sides of the pan where it arches downward as applied by the factory.

10. Bolt pan back on, and don't torque down the bolts anymore than 9ft.lbs. And be sure to put the nuts/bolts back on in a crisscross alternating pattern.

11. Bolt everything back up (braces/brackets/downpipe).


Modified by VX at 10:10 PM 9/20/2005

damnraz

great write-up VX, it took me about 4hrs to change out my oil pan gasket with all the above mentioned. It was also the first time I ever changed out my oil pan gasket, I will never do it again, time consuming and I'm very impatient, pretty sure I can cut the time in half by now but oh well.

specv5150

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by damnraz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">great write-up VX, it took me about 4hrs to change out my oil pan gasket with all the above mentioned. It was also the first time I ever changed out my oil pan gasket, I will never do it again, time consuming and I'm very impatient, pretty sure I can cut the time in half by now but oh well.</TD></TR></TABLE>

4 hours......? You can probably cut that down significantly

semij20

get a air compressor save alot of time

Fred Dukes

are these the same steps for my (kelly) d16y8 2000 ex vtech? Doing this in like 3hours from now waiting for my brother to bring jack stands. Don't want to work under 2 scissor Jacks.....i need some helpful steps please, thank you guys in advance.

mk378

That is the procedure for a stock EX. You can also do it with the front wheels on ramps.

Fred Dukes

thanks mk and..... ramps? Like walmart ramps? I should own my own pair of stands....feeling like a jerk asking people..lol but yea..im on my way to getting this done how long should i let the honda bond cure?

mk378

For work that doesn't require taking the wheels off, I like to drive up on ramps. There's practically no way the car can fall. Also if there is going to be a prolonged operation on the top of the engine like R&R head, I'll put the car on ramps it's easier on my back than bending down.

Fred Dukes

[Noted] on my way to buy ramps. This is the 1st project of many on my Ol' girl Kelly 202771k...im leaking oil from the pan for sure.
This side might be power steering pump?

mk378

Oil on the bottom of the engine could have run down from almost anywhere.

Oil running straight down from the crankshaft, and coming out of the timing cover, is likely from the front seal or the cam seal. The power steering pump is mounted on the front of the engine near the top, above the A/C compressor.

Generally to find an oil leak you'd clean all the oil off and drive a short distance then look for where the oil first reappears.

Fred Dukes

i cleaned it last week couldnt pin point it....dont think its my rear main...hope its not..but P.S. pump needs replacement and my rack and pinion is F'd both sides are off the boots...and my brother just flaked so im on my own on this job.

mk378

Front main. There is a seal where the crankshaft comes out of the "front" of the engine to drive the big pulley.