Hey everyone,

I have my JDM D15B7 all installed and I'm pretty sure all wired up correctly. I just swapped into a 91 CRX si chassis. Everything drives find (except I'm having a problem with my flywheel, I think; another post though) but it feels like I'm having power issues. I don't expect this thing to be as fast as some of the B16 that I've worked on, but it still feels like the 1.5 liter that I pulled out (long story, someone blew up the original 1.6). Every once and a while it will kind of stall. Not really stall as in when you don't know how to use a clutch but it seems like an injector is cutting out or a plug is not firing. I've pulled all the injectors and replaced o-rings and checked connects. Everything seems fine.

Now for the killer. I can not tell if VTEC is engaging or not. With a B16 you can hear it because the exhaust cam changes the exhaust note. Well, I'm assuming that with a D15B7 won't sound too much different because I think the intake valves are the only ones affected. I'm in the process of hooking up an engagement light on the 12v line to the solenoid from the ECU, but I was wondering if there was a way to check all the components of the system without just getting in the car and going x miles per hour at y rpm. Is there a way to test VTEC similarly to how a service tech would test other components of an electrical system while the car was at a shop. I have several different manuals, but have not found a test sequence.

Does anyone know how to trouble shoot these two issues, main how to troubleshoot VTEC engagement? All my wiring should be correct. The chassis was a SI so it was MPFI to begin with and all the OBD0 to OBD1 wiring was done via the RyWire kit. No codes are being thrown. Any insight into this would be awesome. I've done searching around the net and some forums and still haven't come up with an answer, but I know someone out there has to know this! Thanks!

Mike G.

EDIT: I'm kinda an idiot. I HAD a D15B7 in the CRX before I swapped. My retardedness keeps me thinking that I still have it in there since I swapped in a JDM D15B w/ VTEC. Sorry!


Modified by mikejr83 at 5:11 AM 5/8/2007

 

Yea..the manual calls for specific 14-20ohm's or something on the sollenoid itself. I don't exactly remember what the values were to check the integrity of the VTEC sollenoid. Are you throwing any CEL's? I'm gonna guess no but if you have the manual there's a decent little trouble shooting chart.

 

i dont think d15b7's are vtec


check to see if you have a vtec sileniod.

 

The cutting out could be caused by a bad plug wire, plug, distributor, or most common ignition relay when hot....I would suggest getting a spare relay and if that doesn't fix it then you have it for the future(your eventually need it....trust me)

 

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pr3d &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yea..the manual calls for specific 14-20ohm's or something on the sollenoid itself. I don't exactly remember what the values were to check the integrity of the VTEC sollenoid. Are you throwing any CEL's? I'm gonna guess no but if you have the manual there's a decent little trouble shooting chart.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I remember reading some stuff from the manual about checking the ohms on a couple of the plugs (off the top of my head I think one was an oil pressure dealie and the other I can't remember). I was more wondering if there was any way to test it similar how you would test something like the fuel pump, hook 12v to it and see if it does stuff. To me that sounds a bit stupid due to my understanding of how VTEC works. Seems like if I were to do that then there may be some damage of the type that I wouldn't like! Anyhow, I'm going to run through some test scenarios that I have found in a couple honda manuals and see if I can turn up any more info. I'm going to try to get around to installing the engagement light some time either tonight or this week.

As of right now I'm not throwing any CELs. I just can't tell when it engages. It should be somewhat noticeable (not stupid noticeable like NOS or something). This is the first time I've done a D series VTEC (actually I'm working on a second at the same time...) and I haven't really experience what these things run like when setup properly.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbodcivic510 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dont think d15b7's are vtec


check to see if you have a vtec sileniod.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It is a JDM engine. I don't know what model it comes out of but I want to say it is a Civic VX from the Japanese market. Don't quote me on that. It does have a solenoid and I should have it wired properly (assuming the RyWire stuff is good and my P08 ECU is good).

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmboyef9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The cutting out could be caused by a bad plug wire, plug, distributor, or most common ignition relay when hot....I would suggest getting a spare relay and if that doesn't fix it then you have it for the future(your eventually need it....trust me)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Awesome insight. I had some "ricer" plug wires that the guy who I originally got the car from had on there. They didn't seem to have a problem pre-swap, but I hear that original honda wires are supposed to be pretty darn good. I have a pair from the swapped engine that I'll try out. I just kept the "ricier" ones on there cause they were big and fat, plus they kinda looked new. I also have several distributors laying around that I can borrow parts from. The one I put in had the least play in the bearings so I thought that one would be the best. I also put in new plugs, but I'll pull them and check the gaps again just in case something messed them up in between the time I was checking gaps and putting them in.

One last thing where is the ignition relay? Is that the nasty relay under the drivers side dash? That little box seems to be giving me problems on another D series swap. Thanks!

Mike

 

http://tech.hybridgarage.com/t...t.pdf

i read it in here the other day.... its shows it on a b16 but its still the same process of testing the vtec sel for the d

 

Ok, so I got the LED wired up. It was a little time consuming but worth it.

Basically I did a couple of things. First I pulled the two pin plug on the VTEC solenoid, got a multimeter and test for continuity between the chassis and the two pins (found the ground). When I found the one that wasn't the ground I now knew that this was the 12V hot for it to actuate. I traced that back down the RyWire harness to inside the car. From there I just spliced in and soldiered a wire to it. I ran the wire up behind the dash to a little LED in a 5mm housing and put it in one of the accesory plates just to the right of the steering column. Since it's green it really is not noticeable, but the wiper lever blocks my view of it when sitting normal in the car . I just found an acceeptable ground and soldiered in the LED's ground.

Anyhow, now that it is installed I took it out for a quick test. It works fine. Just in a bad spot to be looking for. I went with a smaller LED and not so bright just because I didn't need craziness going off in the car every time I get on it (but I have a big stupid shift light...). I think I may move the plate to the other side of the steering column to see if it is more visible when driving. I'll try to throw up some pics later today.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Donkey85 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://tech.hybridgarage.com/t...t.pdf

i read it in here the other day.... its shows it on a b16 but its still the same process of testing the vtec sel for the d </TD></TR></TABLE>

I downloaded that deal a couple of days ago. When I got done wiring up the LED I basically ran out of daylight. I still need to extend some wires to reach the mass airflow sensor so I'll check out that test as well.