So I was wondering who thinks an exhaust leak kills performance, and who doesnt. Does a leak after the o2 sensor not matter? ive heard mixed oppinions. Im trying to pin point a ghost leak, and my performance is very low.

 

In a d-series, won't make a damn difference really.

You're the same guy that needs the valve adjustment right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek forever guy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In a d-series, won't make a damn difference really.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek forever guy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In a d-series, won't make a damn difference really.

You're the same guy that needs the valve adjustment right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I dont need a valve adjustment, i just have a feeling I made em a tad too tight, more than enough drag with the feeler.

Im just so confused, i mean tonight its like a cylinder or 2 just started working, no noise, pure muffler, and I could pull. The throttle was 100% responsive, untill I made a right turn, boom, back down to 25% throttle response.

So i dont know, how can this performance be so off and on? maybe once a month ill have my full power back, for a few seconds. Its like driving a whole new car, I can push the throttle all the way down and it climbs in RPMS. Right now it just doesnt accellerate even at WOT @ 5000rpms in 2nd.

again Ive changed just about everything except the engine, its gotta be the exhaust, since slapping in a new donut gasket seems to cure my problem for a day.

 

Did you tighten back down the valve seat when you adjusted the valve lash? It's a common mistake.

If nothing works and your problem isn't solved by wednesday buy a new block

 

i may have to, however somebody said something about warn motor mounts. I filled my mounts with liquid nails, and after they dried the leak is a little less noticeable.

However performance is still an issue, so im thinking the worst now.

Seriously WOT is just horrible, its like its not processing the power.

Ive changed dizzy cap/rotor/wires/plugs and o2 fuel filter, fuel pump (95 talon esi pump, unknown lph) PCV valve/lines vac lines valve cover, every gasket known to man except head gasket (not overheating/mixing oil coolant)


ive even changed out the TB with good known sensors. NO CEL.


The part that gets me is, some times, very rarely, it will go from (an analogy figure) 20hp to 265hp. obviously its got 127hp at the crank, but thats how it feels. I couldnt chirp the tires popping the clutch @5500 rpm in 1st if my life depended on it. When the engine works correctly, i could chirp them in 2nd.

Honest to god this is why i needed my old account, so I could hit up market place and finish selling my stuff, any buy a new block i was looking at. Now I have to wait.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MidwestCartel &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i may have to, however somebody said something about warn motor mounts. I filled my mounts with liquid nails, and after they dried the leak is a little less noticeable.

However performance is still an issue, so im thinking the worst now.

Seriously WOT is just horrible, its like its not processing the power.

Ive changed dizzy cap/rotor/wires/plugs and o2 fuel filter, fuel pump (95 talon esi pump, unknown lph) PCV valve/lines vac lines valve cover, every gasket known to man except head gasket (not overheating/mixing oil coolant)


ive even changed out the TB with good known sensors. NO CEL.


The part that gets me is, some times, very rarely, it will go from (an analogy figure) 20hp to 265hp. obviously its got 127hp at the crank, but thats how it feels. I couldnt chirp the tires popping the clutch @5500 rpm in 1st if my life depended on it. When the engine works correctly, i could chirp them in 2nd.

Honest to god this is why i needed my old account, so I could hit up market place and finish selling my stuff, any buy a new block i was looking at. Now I have to wait.</TD></TR></TABLE>

not too be a dick...but just rock it this way till it dies and then swap a b series in. ^_^

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MidwestCartel &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">maybe once a month ill have my full power back, for a few seconds. Its like driving a whole new car, I can push the throttle all the way down and it climbs in RPMS.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Same here... every so often my car seems to get alive and rips like never before. The next day it's back to normal. I've always blamed it on ambiant temperature, humidity level and so on.

 

yea back in the day I used to blame it on that, but its getting way more extreme lately, its gotta be that 95 esi fuel pump or something

oh and I would get a B series, but seriously my rent payment is the price of a car each month.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MidwestCartel &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh and I would get a B series, but seriously my rent payment is the price of a car each month.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Curious. mine too if I was buying repo'd Geo metros.

have you thought about taking it to a mechanic to get inspected? Because obviously all of H-t in it's greatness can't solve your problem.

 

found the issue, it was an exhaust leak, which did KILL my performance, it was before the o2 so that may be the reason. It was where the 4 meets the 2 on my DC 4-2-1 ceramic header.

do you think its warped? how easily do these gaskets blow out?

 

my flange leaked too , but the guy in my signature can make you a new flange gasket to solve your problem