The code is 3, its not a leak. I not sure whats going on and yes i try to look but i couldnt find anything.

 

anybody

 

MAP Sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure)
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor.

This should cause bouncing idle. I'll repost with the testing procedure...

 

This is assuming that you have an obd0 D series, since you failed to specify...

Reset the ECU by removing the Hazard Fuse located in the under hood fuse box for 10 or more seconds.

Replace fuse, start the engine, and allow to idle.
Does the check engine light come on, is the diagnostic led indicating code 3? No = Intermittent failure.

If yes, turn the ignition switch off, and disconnect the three pin map sensor connector.

Turn the ignition switch to the on position.

Measure the voltage between the Yellow/Red (+) and the Green/White (-) terminal.

Is there approximately 5 volts?

Post your results, and I'll continue from there.

 

ok ill do that, and just to let you know i change the the whole map sensor unit, i had another one laying around and i know that one works for sure but ill see how much voltage i get.

 

If you replaced it with a known good Map, then it's either the wiring, the ecu, or a vacuum leak.

 

ya im not getting 5V what should i do

 

ok i try a different ECU that didnt work

 

The next steps require a PGM-FI test harness, which the manual says is Tool number 07999-PD6000A...

However, I feel that it's not the map sensor or the ECU. So that means it has to be a break in the wiring going to the map.

If you're familiar with the layout of the ECU connector, you can check for continuity at pin C15 and the Yellow/Red wire on the map connector. C11 and the White wire on the map connector and do another voltage test from the Yellow/Red terminal to body ground, if there's 5 volts there is a break between the Green/White terminal, and C14 .

Just for referance, the pins are numbered 1 at the top left of the C block, and 2 at the bottom left. So C11 will be the third on the top from the right.


The digital multi meter I got for 10 bucks at Walmart has an audible continuity test mode, and I suggest you use something like it, it takes the headache out of having to look at the display.

Report back with your findings. Also, did you do a MPFI swap on a 1.5? Or is it a stock SI?

 

no i change the harness on the stock motor because it had a short somewhere, but im planing on going a mini. It was weird though because i was just driving and then i stop to talk to my cousin and then i turn off my car, then like 30 mins later i turn my car on again and thats when my light came on

 

do you have a vacuum hose going to the map sensor from one of the nipples on the TB?

 

yes everything is connect, well when i was looking at it ya everything was fine

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91ed9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you have a vacuum hose going to the map sensor from one of the nipples on the TB?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Code 5 would be a vacuum leak, code 3 is either the map sensor it self, or the harness...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by freddysEF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no i change the harness on the stock motor because it had a short somewhere, but im planing on going a mini. It was weird though because i was just driving and then i stop to talk to my cousin and then i turn off my car, then like 30 mins later i turn my car on again and thats when my light came on</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok, so you got a complete uncut stock harness, and swapped it over. You're currently running a DPFI 1.5 that came stock in the base and DX hatches. It's can't be the wrong harness, otherwise you would be having problems with your TPS. So, when you changed harnesses, did you remove the firewall boot? Is is all jacked up allowing the wires to touch the metal? Did you route the wires in such a way that they will get rubbed a lot? Or, they could have gotten messed up during the swap. Either way, the best course of action at this point is to test for shorts as I described above.

 

ok i found the problem it was just the apex controller thanks for all the help

 

Haha, no problem. At least you got it all sorted out.