Hey, I'm running a Pioneer DEH-p9600mp in my teg. My guess is it requires more power then your average H/U because its got a full color display and a motorized face plate. Anyway I also have a Pioneer Ipod Adapter and a pioneer Sirius Satilite Adapter.

Both of these units, in thier own directions, say to run the power off of the original (yellow) power wire... the same one that the H/U operates off of.

My question is: Is there any other power source I can run the ipod & sat off of? (Ones that are only on when the radio is on?

Pioneer says to install them this way, but it seems like squeezeing alot of power out of a wire thats very small... particuly b/c the ipod/sat adapters are always on when the radio is on, theres no on/off switch- just power/ground.

btw each of the items, H/U, ipod, and sat each have there own seperate fuses and little black boxes that I forget what there called, but theres all downstream from the connection at the factory harness...

Also, how should I ground these out? Should I ground all 3 through the ground wire at the factory harness? Or should I ground out all 3 to the chassis directly? Or just the H/U through the harnesss and the ipod/sat threw the Chasis?

Any help would be cool.

I keep running into wierd problems so I'm assuming (hopeing) its the wiring. My motorized pfaceplate will sometimes not work (the h/u will work, but the motorized faceplate will not sometimes).... Also, after listening to the SAT for a few minutes, first the passenger side speakers will go out, then a few minutes later all the speakers will go out, and you will get NO sound whatsoever... and I will have to wait a few minutes before I can listen to SAT radio again... Sometimes you can listen to SAT radio for hours before the speakers will go out, sometimes only a few seconds....

My bad for rambling on in that last paragraph, but if anyone can help me with my orignial problem i'd appriaciate it

 

At work, I just tap the power and ground to the radio harness or the cigarette lighter. This works fine, but it's not ideal.

On my own car, I ran a 14 gauge wire to a fuse to a distribution block on the positive battery terminal, and an unfused 14 gauge wire to a ring terminal sharing the same mounting point as the battery ground. I capped off the factory stereo constant wire and connected the radio to my 14 gauge power wire exclusively. The ground on the other hand is shared between my 14 gauge negative wire and the factory ground.

If I had satellite radio and/or ipod, I would then connect them to the factory constant and ground.

 

Yeah I guess that prolly my best bet. Al least then I would KNOW if my problems are from bad power/grounds or from a damaged Headunit/sat radio adapter...

Oh, and I guess if my motorized face is broken, and wont go up or down... I'm **** outa luck, correct? no way to repair that?

 

MM&Y of car please.

What Hatch said.

As to the other problems, first, you are correct, you are "overloading" the stock radio harness, but then just the HU alone is an overload to the stock radio harness, [if using internal amp] the directions above is the fix.
If the problem with the speaker(s) cutting out is only when listening to SAT radio, then it is unlikely that wiring, [powers and grounds] is the problem, possibly a connection problem between the SAT "box" and HU or a problem with the "box" itself.
Without knowing the MM&Y of car and how HU is mounted I can only guess at what is wrong with the motorized face, it is a microprocessor controlled function so poor power and grounds can have an effect, I have "fixed" more then a few HU installs that motorized faces and screens are not working properly because of an improper install, the most common "mistake" with sleeve mounted HUs is no rear support, and a close second is a back support that "misaligns" the HU, [back of HU up/down too far]
And no, you are not "**** outa luck" any thing can be fixed, the question is how much are you prepared to pay to have it fixed, [if it's broke] IMO once that reaches 30%-50% of cost of replacing the unit, [age of HU a factor] it's not worth the money or the wait. 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">MM&Y of car please.</TD></TR></TABLE>

1997 Integra GS 3 door

Anyway are you saying if the HU is tilted up or down in the back, it could be causing the problem?? That could be it, the dash kit in my car was a piece of crap and was in the car when I bought it, been meaning to get a new one anyway. I think I'm going to re-wire all the audio components directly from the batttary.... and ground em out back at the battary.

However, I did try another pioneer HU with a motorized face & color display (deh-p8600 i think) and it works fine... So im guessing Headunit is the cuulprit,... it is a few years old...

Assuming I will be running 3 things: Pioneer deh-p960mp, Pioneer I-pod apt. and pioneer Siruis Adapeter...... How should I wire it? Should I run 3 sperate smaller wires, each with thier own fuse?

Oh and about the SAT radio, Im guessing that is also the "box" thats messed up... My father has got the same thing in his car, so Im gonna switch them out and see if it works.

Thanks for the info.

 

Okay, back to my original reply, no, each component (ipod adapter, sat radio, radio) don't need their own wire direct to the battery. At the most just run a new wire for the radio and connect the other things to the factory wiring.

And also in that post I was very specific when I said that if you run a new ground wire from the battery, it should also be tapped into the factory radio ground or grounded again near the head unit. This prevents any noise from entering the system due to the length of the ground; and noise is exactly what you're trying to prevent by running a new ground in the first place.

My experience is very limited compared to fcm's, but I've never once had any luck with an old unit with a failed motorized face. If it's broke, its broke. If it was due to the dash kit, then it would never have worked in the first place (which is a problem I have encountered with brand new installs), or it would have gone bad at the same time the dash kit went bad. This is why I like the HU where the face drops down by the force of gravity. Gravity is the most reliable source of energy ever known and I don't see any reason to replace it with electric motors unless you want it to work when your car is flipped upside down.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Okay, back to my original reply, no, each component (ipod adapter, sat radio, radio) don't need their own wire direct to the battery. At the most just run a new wire for the radio and connect the other things to the factory wiring.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Gotcha.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And also in that post I was very specific when I said that if you run a new ground wire from the battery, it should also be tapped into the factory radio ground or grounded again near the head unit. This prevents any noise from entering the system due to the length of the ground; and noise is exactly what you're trying to prevent by running a new ground in the first place.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh, so the ground from the H/U and things will tap into the ground at the harness, but still continue to the battary then?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My experience is very limited compared to fcm's, but I've never once had any luck with an old unit with a failed motorized face. If it's broke, its broke. If it was due to the dash kit, then it would never have worked in the first place (which is a problem I have encountered with brand new installs), or it would have gone bad at the same time the dash kit went bad.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats what I was afraid of... I was thinking though, ever since I re-routed all the wires into single ground/power is when I began to have problems with the motorized HU. (I used to have the HU grounded out to the harness, but I had the Ipod n sat grounded to a screw on the chasis...) One time, the HU got stuck down for a day. Another time, the motor that ejects the CD wouldn't work, and the CD would pop out ~1cm and get stuck, once again fixed itself in a day.... I'm gonna get a new wiring harness from the HU to the Harness and reconnect everything the way you guys suggest. I'll make sure all connections are solid and sodered, then I guess my problems will be narrowed down...

Thanks again, dunno if you remebr it or not but u 2 have acctully helped me out a bunch of times on honda tech.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't see any reason to replace it with electric motors unless you want it to work when your car is flipped upside down.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Amen.

EDIT: I was checking online and it seems the model number I got commanly has this problem... Theres even people on ebay selling a repair kit for it: http://cgi.ebay.com/Pioneer-DE...wItem
Whatda think? Ever heard of something like this happeneing? How easy is the repair?


Modified by Tonyl507 at 8:20 PM 4/22/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tonyl507 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

1997 Integra GS 3 door

Anyway are you saying if the HU is tilted up or down in the back, it could be causing the problem?? That could be it, the dash kit in my car was a piece of crap and was in the car when I bought it </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes it could be the problem, and a new kit, [get the Metra 99-7892] and proper back support could solve the problem, but then again so may the rewire, but the HU should still be installed properly.
I will also add, that although I have "fixed" more then a few, many more were beyond fixing, I also agree that a drop down face is much better then a motorized face, the less moving parts the better, with that said, it will be a long time before I replace my Alpine W/ motorized face.

I would do the grounding and power a little differently then suspendedHatch although it amounts to the same thing.
I would run a fused 12ga power lead from the batt. and connect HUs constant, [yellow] to it, connect the HU ACC., [red] and ACC., [if any] for SAT/iPod to stock radio ACC. and 12V+ constant, [if any] for Sat/iPod to stock radio 12V+ constant, connect HU ground to stock radio ground, add a 12ga ground from HU back support to chassis, as close to HU as possible , or use a metal "L" bracket from the back of the HU to the stock rear support bar, connect Sat/iPod grounds to the same place you ground the HU chassis, either the 12ga ground lead or the metal "L" bracket.
I am no fan of running any grounds back to the batt., although "beefing up" the batt. ground is a good idea, I always add the same gauge ground lead, as what I run for amp power, from batt. neg.(-) to chassis, [shock tower stud].

As I said, although the above is a little diff. then what Hatch suggests, the result is the same, better grounds and better power. 94

 

This what you guys mean?

 

You need a fuse on the power line from the batt. as close to batt. as possible.
You also need a ground from the chassis, [back brace mounting bolt hole] of the HU to chassis ground, that can be the HU back support if you use a metal "L" bracket from the back of the HU to the stock rear radio support, however the "L" bracket may be a problem if you recess the HU back too far, you have about 6.75" from the face of the kit to the center hole on the stock back support. 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You need a fuse on the power line from the batt. as close to batt. as possible.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Got it.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You also need a ground from the chassis, [back brace mounting bolt hole] of the HU to chassis ground, that can be the HU back support if you use a metal "L" bracket from the back of the HU to the stock rear radio support, however the "L" bracket may be a problem if you recess the HU back too far, you have about 6.75" from the face of the kit to the center hole on the stock back support. 94</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you saying to use a metal L bracket to:
a.) support the rear of the H/U
b.) act as a giant ground from the HU to the chasis?

Sorry if thats a dumb question or if Im completly misunderstanding ya...


Oh by the way, is there some resource online that has a guide on which size wires to use for speakers, amps, etc.? Also which gives a guide on the proper size fuses to use?