How to get the most power to speakers?
I just got my components, and I want to get the most power to them and to my coaxials. I am going to rewire my system and make it 'clean' this time. I would like to know how to get the most power to my speakers. It seems complicated to me with a 4 channel amp. Should I hook up wires from the amp to the deck then to the speakers? I do not know what is the best possible way. Any recommendations will be greatly appreciated. I would post up a drawing but I don't know how to post pics. Thanks guys.
System: Deck: Pioneer DEH-750MP (50x4), Phoenix Gold Rsd65cs components (6.5 front), Pioneer coaxials (5.25 rear), Cheap 4 channel amp (600x4 doesn't really push out that much power).
System: Deck: Pioneer DEH-750MP (50x4), Phoenix Gold Rsd65cs components (6.5 front), Pioneer coaxials (5.25 rear), Cheap 4 channel amp (600x4 doesn't really push out that much power).
if i were you i would bridge the amp (if possible) and run only the components off the amp, seeing as i do not have the exact specs on the speakers or amp i would certainly be careful to not blow the speakers. i would run the rears off the HU and use them as rear fill.
Here are the specs that I found:
AMP: 600 watts bridged max
4 x 70 watts into 4 ohms RMS, 4 x 85 watts into 2 ohms RMS
MOSFET power supply
Hi/full/low selectable crossover
40Hz 18dB bass boost
3-way protection circuit
Hi/low level inputs with floating ground
Blue neon tube, black chrome, plexi-view top panel
14 inch x 11 inch x 2 1?2 inch
Component: CAD/CAE Performance Design
RMS power handling: 5W
Peak power handling: 120W
Injection molded aluminum plated polypropylene cone
Butyl rubber surround
Rigid powder coated steel frame
Interwoven tinsel leads woven directly into the spider provide added strength and reliability
Optimized magnet/motor structure
Frequency response: 45Hz - 20kHz
Impedance: 4ohm
Sensitivity: 88dB
AMP: 600 watts bridged max
4 x 70 watts into 4 ohms RMS, 4 x 85 watts into 2 ohms RMS
MOSFET power supply
Hi/full/low selectable crossover
40Hz 18dB bass boost
3-way protection circuit
Hi/low level inputs with floating ground
Blue neon tube, black chrome, plexi-view top panel
14 inch x 11 inch x 2 1?2 inch
Component: CAD/CAE Performance Design
RMS power handling: 5W
Peak power handling: 120W
Injection molded aluminum plated polypropylene cone
Butyl rubber surround
Rigid powder coated steel frame
Interwoven tinsel leads woven directly into the spider provide added strength and reliability
Optimized magnet/motor structure
Frequency response: 45Hz - 20kHz
Impedance: 4ohm
Sensitivity: 88dB
What is the make and model of the "cheap 4ch amp"?
To get the best possible sound from your speakers they should definitely be wired directly from the amp, I would agree that only the front components should be on the "off-board" amp, the rears can run off the HUs internal amp, [and I would disable the tweeters].
Before I recommend you bridge the amp into a 2ch to use on the fronts I need to know the make and model, if it has a true 4x60W - 75W RMS into 4 ohms, I would use 2 channels to drive the front components, bridge the 2 remaining channels into mono, wire the rear speakers in series, [for an 8 ohm load] and connect to amp, and I would still recommend disabling the tweeters.
94
PS, you do know that a proper installation of the speakers is critical to the speakers performance, including it's SQ, F3 down point, [how low the bass goes] and output level.
To get the best possible sound from your speakers they should definitely be wired directly from the amp, I would agree that only the front components should be on the "off-board" amp, the rears can run off the HUs internal amp, [and I would disable the tweeters].
Before I recommend you bridge the amp into a 2ch to use on the fronts I need to know the make and model, if it has a true 4x60W - 75W RMS into 4 ohms, I would use 2 channels to drive the front components, bridge the 2 remaining channels into mono, wire the rear speakers in series, [for an 8 ohm load] and connect to amp, and I would still recommend disabling the tweeters.
94PS, you do know that a proper installation of the speakers is critical to the speakers performance, including it's SQ, F3 down point, [how low the bass goes] and output level.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What is the make and model of the "cheap 4ch amp"?
To get the best possible sound from your speakers they should definitely be wired directly from the amp, I would agree that only the front components should be on the "off-board" amp, the rears can run off the HUs internal amp, [and I would disable the tweeters].
Before I recommend you bridge the amp into a 2ch to use on the fronts I need to know the make and model, if it has a true 4x60W - 75W RMS into 4 ohms, I would use 2 channels to drive the front components, bridge the 2 remaining channels into mono, wire the rear speakers in series, [for an 8 ohm load] and connect to amp, and I would still recommend disabling the tweeters.
94
PS, you do know that a proper installation of the speakers is critical to the speakers performance, including it's SQ, F3 down point, [how low the bass goes] and output level.</TD></TR></TABLE>
perfect answer.
To get the best possible sound from your speakers they should definitely be wired directly from the amp, I would agree that only the front components should be on the "off-board" amp, the rears can run off the HUs internal amp, [and I would disable the tweeters].
Before I recommend you bridge the amp into a 2ch to use on the fronts I need to know the make and model, if it has a true 4x60W - 75W RMS into 4 ohms, I would use 2 channels to drive the front components, bridge the 2 remaining channels into mono, wire the rear speakers in series, [for an 8 ohm load] and connect to amp, and I would still recommend disabling the tweeters.
94PS, you do know that a proper installation of the speakers is critical to the speakers performance, including it's SQ, F3 down point, [how low the bass goes] and output level.</TD></TR></TABLE>
perfect answer.
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The RMS power handling of the component speakers is probably 60W continuous, about 50% of the 120W peak power, your amp is 4x70W RMS into 4 ohms.
Use the amp in its 4ch mode and wire as I suggested, 2 channels for the front and the other two bridged into mono for the 2 rear speakers, disable the tweeters.
the 2 bridged ch. will be 1x140W RMS into 4 ohms or 70W RMS into 8 ohms, you do not need any more power for the rear speakers, it would only make it hard or impossible to set up a good sound stage, imaging will be very left/right biased.
94
Use the amp in its 4ch mode and wire as I suggested, 2 channels for the front and the other two bridged into mono for the 2 rear speakers, disable the tweeters.
the 2 bridged ch. will be 1x140W RMS into 4 ohms or 70W RMS into 8 ohms, you do not need any more power for the rear speakers, it would only make it hard or impossible to set up a good sound stage, imaging will be very left/right biased.
94
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