Well, I'm pretty sure I need to rebuild my turbo. I'm going through a **** ton of oil right now. It will smoke when I'm at idle sometimes, and will go away after increasing RPMs for a few seconds. It will also smoke while in boost.

Also, my catch can is filling up VERY quickly. It's full in less than a week. This CAN'T be normal! I removed the PCV system, and used the honda rear block fittings for catch can ventilation lines. The can is mounted at the top of the engine bay on the firewall.

I've recently had the head redone. New valve seals, valve job, resurface, head gasket, ARP head studs, etc. My coolant looks fine.

-Should I use an oil restrictor on the turbo?
-Should I recheck my ARP head studs?
-Will rebuilding the turbo, and rotating the center section take care of my problems? My return line isn't in a free-flowing "L" shape, it's in somewhat of a restrictive "S" shape.

--http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW
Would an ebay rebuild kit like this work okay? The above listing includes wheel inspection, polishing, and balancing for an additional $15.




Modified by full Circling at 2:55 PM 4/17/2007

 

Well need to pull the manifolds make sure your valve seals arent leaking. If the turbo is leaking it will consume oil but should consume that much. If your filling your catch can you could have blown rings and to much crank presure is blowing oil out of the motor.

Also if your lines are to small for the breather then it will create like a vacuum and pull the oil out of th emotor as it drains back to the pan, also when accelerating the fittings on the back of the block act like a drain because as the oil is coming down those pasages its being forced to the back wall and into the hoses. Valve cover is a much better place for breather fittinsg and have one on the block as drain back from the catch can.

 

Okay, should I check to see if any of the valve stem seals have popped off first, then check the manifolds?

I will redo my catch can lines at some point, but I need to get this fixed first. Thanks for the tip.
If I do a compression test, I will pretty much just be testing the rings, right? I mean, I just had the head redone w/ valve job.

So all of the possibilities here are:

-Leaking valve stem seal(s)
-Bad rings
-Catch can design
-Blown turbo seals

Anything else?

 

Who else has had this problem?

 

...and this is why honda-tech has gone down the *******.

 

i know many people that have had the same symtoms and it ended up being the turbo seals were shot! did you buy your turbo new or used? where did you get it from? the people that have had these symtoms haven't even had anything other than a stock pcv on there car. not good so you are experiencing the catch can filling up? and as the other guy posted says one line should run form the valve cover and the other one to the back of the block to be the drain? can anyone say which ways works better? jwm lol but i would bet anything if you have checked all those other things that it is the turbo

 

maybe the crankcase pressure from blown ring lands blew the oil seals on the turbo too

 

Do a compression test on the engine and that will tell you if its the engine or the turbo!!
I done my piston lands in on my B16 engine after getting boost creep. Checked the rocker breather pipe and you could see the crank case had been pressurised as it was spitting out oil and alot of fumes coming out of it. The compression test confirmed it and the strip down did too.


Modified by dalecrx at 1:57 PM 4/18/2007

 

i also know alot of people that thought their turbo seals were bad and it ended up being the rings.

I think you need to take some pics of your catch can setup, because if you have a closed system using vacuum/check valve, its possible for blown turbo seals to fill your catch can.

FI cars usually have the open breather system and it wouldnt be possible for blown turbo seals to fill the catch can. If that is the case you probably have some worse issues.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by imptricer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i know many people that have had the same symtoms and it ended up being the turbo seals were shot! did you buy your turbo new or used? where did you get it from? the people that have had these symtoms haven't even had anything other than a stock pcv on there car. not good so you are experiencing the catch can filling up? and as the other guy posted says one line should run form the valve cover and the other one to the back of the block to be the drain? can anyone say which ways works better? jwm lol but i would bet anything if you have checked all those other things that it is the turbo</TD></TR></TABLE>

Front of the valve cover with two -12an fittings coming off is the best place for cankcase ventilation. -16 is best but very expensive to do and overkill if your not making 800whp with a trailer queen. You can get away with -10an buyt -12an is better.

You can put one off the back of the block but it tends to put oil into the catch can under acceleration. but its nice to have a drain back and not have to do it manually. BUT with the proper ventilation off the front of the valve cover and a solid running engine oil getting into the catch can should be minimal if any

 

I'll do a compression test soon. One thing I did notice is that I don't see/smell any oil-filled smoke coming out of the dumptube when the wastegate opens.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by full Circling &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, I'm pretty sure I need to rebuild my turbo. I'm going through a **** ton of oil right now. It will smoke when I'm at idle sometimes, and will go away after increasing RPMs for a few seconds. It will also smoke while in boost.

Also, my catch can is filling up VERY quickly. It's full in less than a week. This CAN'T be normal! I removed the PCV system, and used the honda rear block fittings for catch can ventilation lines. The can is mounted at the top of the engine bay on the firewall.

I've recently had the head redone. New valve seals, valve job, resurface, head gasket, ARP head studs, etc. My coolant looks fine.

-Should I use an oil restrictor on the turbo?
what size is your line now and what kind of turbocharger is it?
-Should I recheck my ARP head studs?
Your supposed to after 500 miles... did you? Also, this probably wouldnt have ANYTHING to do with crankcase pressure
-Will rebuilding the turbo, and rotating the center section take care of my problems? My return line isn't in a free-flowing "L" shape, it's in somewhat of a restrictive "S" shape.
If the seals are blown from excessive crank case pressure, this is not going to fix your problem your going to ruin the turbocharger again.

--http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW
Would an ebay rebuild kit like this work okay? The above listing includes wheel inspection, polishing, and balancing for an additional $15.
eBay turbochargers are crap so what makes you think these rebuild kits are good? We dont even know what kind of turbo you have so how can we judge if this rebuild kit is the right one?


Modified by full Circling at 2:55 PM 4/17/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

I'm not sure of the size of the oil feed and return lines. I bought the car already turboed. It's a stainless feed line, though. Looks like a stealthmode kit. I'll post up pics tonight or tomorrow.

I still need to check my head studs. How would I go about doing this? Loosen them all up and retorque, or don't loosen and just retorque them?

turbo is a garret t3/t04e 57 trim- .48 exhaust, .60 compressor.

i know this isn't going to fix my problem, but where should i get a turbo rebuild kit from?
i have a feeling that i'm going to be putting in a rebuilt bottom end in sometime soon. (&^#(^)*&#@%!

 

I can get rebuild kits... Give me a call or PM me and I'll see what I can do as far as a price goes.

I'm not sure the process to retorque the headstuds but I would think you could loosen them back up and then torque them again... Double check that though.

a -3 and -4 line are a night and day difference too. Measure it or take a picture of it and we'll help you identify it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by full Circling &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I still need to check my head studs. How would I go about doing this? Loosen them all up and retorque, or don't loosen and just retorque them?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I believe you would losen one at a time and retoque it or just check to make sure there in spec without lossening them at all. If you losen all of them and retorque it you would geta a proper seal on the HG and end up blowing the gasket and causing more issues then needed. I personally never retorqued my head studs and have never had a problem. BUT all motors are different

 

its never bad to check better safe then sorry specially when sealing things

 

well i be dam some one having the same problem im having wright now well i well say that i have done a comp check and every thing else i could think of
the only thing i could come up with is turbo seals and mine are bad enough that theirs oil burning on bottom of my turbo oily in the compresser mine only smocks when im stop after it gets hot after driving it and when i first start it
( spec turbo seals ) ( valve seals )

 

what kind of numbers did you come up with on the compression test?

 

The ad in the link can't even spell 'Taiwan' correctly...............I'd be cautious

 

cant remember exactly what my numbers were wont to say something like 175-185
with no than 3to5 drop

 

Okay, I'm not gonna get the ebay rebuild kit. I'd like to use real garrett parts.

crxsir, is your catch can filling up like crazy? are you losing oil like crazy?

 

yes when im a the track in 2 passes i loose
Q 1 1/2 of oil

 

I was loosing more than 1 qaurt down the 1/4, was using the two block plugs with the fittings that replaced them..not a great place to breath from I'd deffinately listen to those who suggest the front of the VC I got 2 -10 an hopefully it should be better that the plugs in the rear of the block

 

I'm glad I saved one of those stock block plugs "just in case".