Tach jumping around and engine stuttering...
I have a completely stock D16Y8 and I have been noticing that the tach is jumping around above 4k rpm. Any driving below 4k is perfectly normal. The engine sounds like it is misfiring or something above that point, though. I searched and found that it could be a coil pack or an ignitor. How do you check those? Ill be checking the plugs in the morning.
Any other ideas of what could be causing this? Bad wires?
Any other ideas of what could be causing this? Bad wires?
i have a 99 si n my tach jumps because i cut my seconday o2 sensor go to a shop n have them scan ur codes to see what it says it might give u an idea of where to look for the problem
most likely the ignitor. I've had this problem a couple of times with all the honda's I've owned. You can just replace the ignitor in the distributor by just pulling off the distributor cap. But I usually just replace the entire distributor because it ends up being cheaper. Don't forget to change the cap and rotor while you're at it. Make sure to set the timing properly after replacing the distributor or ignitor.
Not sure how to test it. Find someone who has the same car and swap the distributors to see if it's your problem. Just don't forget to mark the distributors so you know where to put them back because you don't want to mess up the timing.
Not sure how to test it. Find someone who has the same car and swap the distributors to see if it's your problem. Just don't forget to mark the distributors so you know where to put them back because you don't want to mess up the timing.
Replacing the entire distributor is cheaper than just replacing the ignitor and/or coil??
To test those components, reliably, you need a scope and current probe. It's just easier to try and swap the whole distributor with a known working one for practical troubleshooting purposes though.
To test those components, reliably, you need a scope and current probe. It's just easier to try and swap the whole distributor with a known working one for practical troubleshooting purposes though.
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Just Google up "ignition primary waveforms". Basically, a nice smooth ramp as it's charging which drops sharply back ~0v after it's discharged.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by greengiant »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Find someone who has the same car and swap the distributors to see if it's your problem. Just don't forget to mark the distributors so you know where to put them back because you don't want to mess up the timing.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Can someone elaborate on this? I've never done it before and I usually don't get along well with electrical components...
Can someone elaborate on this? I've never done it before and I usually don't get along well with electrical components...
the distributer can be adjusted by loosening the mounting bolts and rotating it clockwise/counter clockwise. This adjusts the timing. On the top mount take a sharpie/marker and make a line from the mount to the distributor so that when you put back your distributor you know exactly where to put it so you're not guessing at the timing. However, if you end up replacing the distributor/ignitor/coil you will have to get the timing adjusted/checked
If someone could post pictures to help out what I'm trying to say it would. Sorry I don't have pics of this.
To EE_Chris yes it ends up being cheaper for me to replace the entire distributor up here in Toronto because an entire distributor costs just as much as the ignitor/coil itself. There's a place here in Toronto just around the corner where I live that sells rebuilt Honda distributors with brand new cap and rotor for a couple dollars cheaper.
If someone could post pictures to help out what I'm trying to say it would. Sorry I don't have pics of this.
To EE_Chris yes it ends up being cheaper for me to replace the entire distributor up here in Toronto because an entire distributor costs just as much as the ignitor/coil itself. There's a place here in Toronto just around the corner where I live that sells rebuilt Honda distributors with brand new cap and rotor for a couple dollars cheaper.
It is the distributor! I just had the same problems and my buddy tested it and it was losing voltage at the higher rpms. My tach would bounce and car would stumble sometimes and just quit sometimes at around 3500 rpm. This seems to be an ongoing problem! Oreilly's auto parts has a reman. with lifetime warranty and I chose this one as t was about $200 tax and all, it has a coil in it but not a rotor. It is no doubt, the distributor. It only takes 15 minutes to replace. just remember to reset your timing. Done deal. Hope this helps.
Modified by j-bo at 11:26 AM 4/17/2007
Modified by j-bo at 11:26 AM 4/17/2007
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by twinj »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you Tach is jumping around it is a ground near the alternator check all of you grounds expcially around and from the alternator.</TD></TR></TABLE>
id listen to him.. hahah cause i had that and ran out and got a distributor and after all it was just a ground..
id listen to him.. hahah cause i had that and ran out and got a distributor and after all it was just a ground..
I have same trouble with my B16 engine, tachometer is jumping then RMP are over 2000 & power loss, but only when hot, all groundes are ok, i have replaced for test distributor & main relay, but nothing changed, tested my tacho on another car, it is working fine.
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StupidSlowRSX
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