problems with the oil pumps
hi everyone I need some answers whats the problem with the type r oil pumps they keep on braking all the time in my friends car and the other day my brothers car also we change the ctr pully 2 a stock gsr but still braking for some reason you can't push 500+ horsepower on this pumps I'm trying to figure out the problem so please I need some help
need to buy a PRODRIVE PUMP. stock pumps are made of sintered metal. When they break they break into a millon pieces. Use the stock pully it takes out the vibration.
I broke 3 oil pump and snapped a cam shaft in half. Just bad luck
I broke 3 oil pump and snapped a cam shaft in half. Just bad luck
prodrive is crap, if you keep breaking pumps then something is not balanced in that crank shaft.
Plenty of racers use oem pumps over 500whp with no problem, you have another issue besides the oil pump. I would get that crank balanced to the rpm you are spinning it.
Plenty of racers use oem pumps over 500whp with no problem, you have another issue besides the oil pump. I would get that crank balanced to the rpm you are spinning it.
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ive had no problem with a stock acura pump... been 10.59 at 137 reving a built ls/vtec to 10,800... if the motor is built right and balanced right then you should break them at all.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vaporboy12 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ive had no problem with a stock acura pump... been 10.59 at 137 reving a built ls/vtec to 10,800... if the motor is built right and balanced right then you should break them at all. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree - there are tons of racers with stock pumps having no problems. If you keep breaking them you have some other problem - like said above most likely the crank isnt balanced correctly.
liam
I agree - there are tons of racers with stock pumps having no problems. If you keep breaking them you have some other problem - like said above most likely the crank isnt balanced correctly.
liam
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MotorMouth »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">prodrive is crap, if you keep breaking pumps then something is not balanced in that crank shaft.
Plenty of racers use oem pumps over 500whp with no problem, you have another issue besides the oil pump. I would get that crank balanced to the rpm you are spinning it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
540 on a stock ITR pump. anyway if you are lookinf for prodrive, you need to look for circuitworx.
but y eah a properly setup engine WITHOUT a ctr n1 pulley should be fine. are you using a dampener like the ATI or fluidampr? i chose the fluidampr myself.
Plenty of racers use oem pumps over 500whp with no problem, you have another issue besides the oil pump. I would get that crank balanced to the rpm you are spinning it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
540 on a stock ITR pump. anyway if you are lookinf for prodrive, you need to look for circuitworx.
but y eah a properly setup engine WITHOUT a ctr n1 pulley should be fine. are you using a dampener like the ATI or fluidampr? i chose the fluidampr myself.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NJIN BUILDR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If the block was been align hone/bored it may also be an oil pump alignment issue.And get a pulley that has a harmonic damper in it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
if that was the case wouldnt it have to be done way wrong or too much taken out? you take from the caps not the block. so yes the crank does drop a little but it shouldnt matter. my b16 that saw 10k was line honed with no issues. maybe it was my fluidampr. i dont know. just asking. not arguing.
if that was the case wouldnt it have to be done way wrong or too much taken out? you take from the caps not the block. so yes the crank does drop a little but it shouldnt matter. my b16 that saw 10k was line honed with no issues. maybe it was my fluidampr. i dont know. just asking. not arguing.
I heard from someone who align bored/honed one of my blocks that a lot of machine shops use a machine that doesn't positively locate the cutter in reference to the block, which can cause problems if the block is a different material than the caps because it will tend to eat more out of the softer material of the block, causing problems with the oil pump alignment. My B16 that was align bored/honed never had any problems though, so I guess it was done right.
A skilled operator can take out a minimum amount of material from the block with an align bore.When align honing your somewhat at the mercy of the materials.The pumps will take a small amount of misalignment but they have their limits.If you have moved the center line to much you will need to recenter the pump.
never heard of a pump breaking....
only time i wouldnt use a pump again would be if a block spun a bearing, or some other time of REAL damage causing chunks to go through the pump
only time i wouldnt use a pump again would be if a block spun a bearing, or some other time of REAL damage causing chunks to go through the pump
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedcivicsir »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
540 on a stock ITR pump. anyway if you are lookinf for prodrive, you need to look for circuitworx.
but y eah a properly setup engine WITHOUT a ctr n1 pulley should be fine. are you using a dampener like the ATI or fluidampr? i chose the fluidampr myself.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeap I just bought a fluidampr thanks bro
540 on a stock ITR pump. anyway if you are lookinf for prodrive, you need to look for circuitworx.
but y eah a properly setup engine WITHOUT a ctr n1 pulley should be fine. are you using a dampener like the ATI or fluidampr? i chose the fluidampr myself.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeap I just bought a fluidampr thanks bro
I also think the crank has something to do with it. maybe is not balance right. I will do my research on it before I make another move with it
''THANKS EVERYONE''
''THANKS EVERYONE''
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