This is going to be a collection of data for those who have broken oil pump gears without an apparent cause. So those who had loose flywheels or pos aluminum crank pulleys please dont post.

Anyway, here is what I want to know:

-Engine block, crankshaft, and mileage/usage at time of breakage
-Flywheel and clutch
-balancer
-oil pump, gear, and mileage/usage at time of breakage
-approximate hp
-shift rpm
-Line hone done on the block?

thanks guys,
Jared


Modified by Jared at 6:38 PM 12/5/2006

 

I will post for a friend of mine.
-LS B18a engine, 180k miles. broke 1st to 2nd gear shift
-Stock flywheel, competition 6 puck sprung clutch
-CTR N1 pully (no rubber isolator like the "stock" ones)
-Stock oil pump, 180k miles, broke under boost shifting to 2nd
-Dynoed 328 whp
-8400 rpm revlimit

Oil pump gears were shattered, but in this case, we are pretty sure the CTR pully caused it to break.

 

freind's car:
-b16b block,ls crank,200miles
-spec twin disc and steel flywheel
-performance plus balancer
-stock typer pump(broke 7 times)always new
-never made more than 630whp before each one broke on the dyno
-9500rpm

my car:
-b18c5 block and crank,around 1500miles
-spec twin disc and steel flywheel
-stock balancer(just bought ati to try)
-stock typer pump(brand new)mine lasted about 8 passes and two dyno sessions
gonna try toda gears this time as well
-672whp
-9500rpm





Modified by turbotypeR at 1:46 PM 12/5/2006

 

B16A,sleeved,stock crankshaft/2nd to 3rd gear shift
stock type r flywheel,act ext pp, cc 4puck sprung disc
stock b16a crank pulley n/rubber
stock new oil pump/10,000miles,everyday driver and weekend racer
595whp
9400rpm

 

should also add in for those that have machine work done, what was done...more specifically align bore

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wHOAlly &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">should also add in for those that have machine work done, what was done...more specifically align bore</TD></TR></TABLE>

Added. Good idea.

 

Eggum racing ran a stock oil pump. 1100hp all day

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2.0Coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Eggum racing ran a stock oil pump. 1100hp all day</TD></TR></TABLE>

So have a lot of other big HP cars. That's what IM getting at, why some run them forever, and others break pump after pump.

 

this was sent to me in a pm:

gsr block gsr crank 2500
exedy twin disc
gsr pump 2500
750hp
9000rpm shift
ctr pulley


Modified by Jared at 7:12 PM 12/5/2006

 

I'd say alot of the cheaper clutches aren't balanced like a tiliton is. And a stock pulley isn't gonna dampen shock as good as a 7'' ATI. Which is a similar setup on the cars that have survived.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2.0Coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd say alot of the cheaper clutches aren't balanced like a tiliton is. And a stock pulley isn't gonna dampen shock as good as a 7'' ATI. Which is a similar setup on the cars that have survived.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree. I was expecting to see a trend in line bore and/or cheap flywheels.

 

its looks like you wanna stay away from ctr pulley/stock pulleys with no rubber. i will be using a fluidampr, not sure how they compare to a ati pulley??

 

i know several people who never had a single oil pump problem till they switched to a fluidamper

 

-Old school golden eagle sleeved B18c, stock crank, 2k miles
-CM Iron disc and flywheel
-CTR crank pulley
-prodrive billet gear
-600ish
-9500
-Nope

-Changed over to a Fluidampr and a stock ITR oil pump gear and have had zero issues ever since. I have probably put 5k miles on the car, beating the crap out of it. I also recently switched to a tilton twin disc.

 

well i got a motor off of my freind and here it goes
it was a sleeved motor darton
87mmX92mm stroke crower stroker kit for a B
#4 the wrist pin riped out of the piston
shooting thew the block
the rod was missing, the end cap was missing
other then that there was 4 bent rods, oil pump was screwed,
the keyway sheared off on the pully (oem pully) the clutch PP blew apart(act MAXX)

o yea and the rod bolts where stuck in the side of the block....

motor made like 280whp
went 11.5
9600rpm redline

 

IT's funny how some people will break oil pump gears and some won't with the exact same set up ( ATI pulley, Tilton clutch, Etc.) It's been my worst fear, to break a oil pump but it's never happened to me...(knocking on wood)!!! I wounder if it has alot to do with the type of oil being used. Oil does have alot to do with dampening some of the the harmonics in the crank.

No broken oil pump gears (Knocking on wood) and I make about 800whp and I redline higher than most people normally do (undisclosed RPM amount) but here is my block set-up.

Do most people check to see if they have enough oil pressure. Not having enough oil pessure will break oil pump gears during high RPM use...way to many variables!

B18c1 block
Old, very old benson sleeves
84mm Arias pistons
Pauter rods
Pauter crank
ACL H series bearing
Stock Type-R oil pump
Blocked off oil piston squirter
CC twin clutch
ATI crank pulley
No align hone

Valvoline 20w50 VR-1 racing oil
I've had this same block since 2001.

 

I've never had issues with the stock USDM crank pulley, but have had issues with the CTR pulley.

 

since my oil pump failure done different
b16a line honed 84.5mm-lined bored mains arp main studs
stock crank,new gsr oil pump,
balanced bottom end(everything weighed)
ati race dampner
act maxx xtrm pp,act 4puck sprung disc
type r flywheel balanced w/bottom end
636whp 9600rpm rev limit
john deere 15w 40 motor oil(was made by valvoline at one time)

 

alot of it is how good your machinist is, the crank alighment is what causes this issue. Basically if the main bearing alighn bore is off 5 thou up or down it binds the oil pump up. this is done to get the bearing clearances, by opening up the main journals.

I have a type R oil pump, with PRODRIVE gears for $100 if anyone is interested.

Brian

 

- 84mm Sleeved b18c5, LS Crank, 5000 miles
- Lightened stock flywheel, RPS Clutch
- Shaved Stock pulley
- Brand new type r oil pump, lasted 2 months, second pump was a very used gsr pump also lasted 2 months.
- 530 whp
- 8500 rev
- Everything was fully balanced, no line hone

I'm gonna switch to an ATI pulley and hopefully that fixes the problem. I'm guessing the shaved stock pulley was the culprit.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jared &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is going to be a collection of data for those who have broken oil pump gears without an apparent cause. So those who had loose flywheels or pos aluminum crank pulleys please dont post.

Anyway, here is what I want to know:

-Engine block, crankshaft, and mileage/usage at time of breakage
-Flywheel and clutch
-balancer
-oil pump, gear, and mileage/usage at time of breakage
-approximate hp
-shift rpm
-Line hone done on the block?

thanks guys,
Jared


Modified by Jared at 6:38 PM 12/5/2006</TD></TR></TABLE>

B16A approx. 50k miles
LS flywheel/Clutchmasters Stage 3 clutch
OE B16 balancer
B16A oil pump that came with the motor
155whp
Shift RPM: 8500~8800 RPM
No line hone

Oil pump gear shattered on a 3-4 shift going down the track. Miracuously, I drove the car back to the pits and didn't damage any bearings.

 

B16a 81.5mm bore 9.5:1 compression
balanced rotating assembly
9900 rpm shifts
ctr pulley
shattered in 4th gear around 8500rpm.

 

if this is off topic i'll delete it; but i have a question... what is the best thing to do when you lose oil pressure at the top of the track and at high rpm? like if your pump goes, what course of action is best to reduce damage to your motor?

 

neutral, shut it off and coast, get a tow

 

kinda what i figured, just thought i would make sure