Sup guys, just trying to find out if the bolts from the advance auto section would be ok to use on a turbo mani? Im not exactly sure if the grade will be ok but i figured you guys would know. These will be replacing most of the studs. thanx

 

ya thats where i got mine, like the variety pack. they are fine so far, no problems

 

my turbo/manifold bolts are M10's from sears hardware and they seem beefy as hell, so i think you should be fine

 

ok If i was you guys i would get the grade A bolts they are bronze color and i would change the bolts every other time you take the turbo off. they do break and turbo falls off.

 

after how long?

 

Sorry guys i didnt phrase my question good enough. These are the bolts that hold the manifold to the head, i replaced many of the studs in favor of these bolts. Just making sure they would be ok to use.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nihad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok If i was you guys i would get the grade A bolts they are bronze color and i would change the bolts every other time you take the turbo off. they do break and turbo falls off.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good idea, i may go find some of these just in case.

 

ya i bought the autozone/pep boys bolts and since have snapped off 2 bolts from my dp (yes I have a flex pipe) and both bolts off the dump tube (still one threaded into my tial). Never again......never again.

Does ARP or any other company worth a **** sell strong *** bolts online? Or do i have to vband everything lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by esedulerp5tenin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my turbo/manifold bolts are M10's from sears hardware and they seem beefy as hell, so i think you should be fine </TD></TR></TABLE>

I've seen some 'beefy' SSauto turbos crack. Not all metals are created equal... One thing to note is that if you overtorque any fastener, it can fail. I've used castle nuts w/SS wire as the cotter pin (through-hole) and SS sheet folded up around bolt heads/nuts (studs or blind holes) to keep things from moving, both work great and you don't have to crank on them.


You can get Grade 8 (SAE) bolts at a hardware store like Ace, or go to a real fastener place like Fastenal and get basicly anything you want, including Grade 10.8 metric. Mcmaster.com and places like boltdepot.com sell good **** online.

Your turbo/manifold connection isn't subjected to the same forces your head/block and rodend mating surfaces are, so you don't exactly need ARP for the job/

 

Go with at least grade 8, they might hold but when your trying to take them out, most of the time they will crack.

 

I went to NAPA to get my self locking nuts because I changed to studs on my exhaust side. The have been great. I'm actually attempting to take them off now and they are a PITA to get to.