I've never messed strut bars or tie bars before (in all honesty maybe that's not what I'm looking for but I think it is).

Anyways, I want to get upper front and rear strut bars with lower front and rear tie bars as well but I'm not sure what brand I should get. I also saw something about a 'c-bar' but I didn't know if that was worth the money to get. I've seen all 5 bars from the brand "bomz" but I was looking for advice on what brand to get and where to get them.

Also, is there anything I need to know before installation?

It is an 89 crx si with stock suspension. -suspension is my next upgrade but I don't have the $1000 to spend on it just yet.

Thanks

 

strut bars are more for looks...except some CUSCO and Neuspeed bars "front top bar"...upgrade suspension probably something adjustable and springs like GC get a bigger rear bar like ST that thing worked great with me...and if you want better handling get a autopower bar

Rollbar = 300
AGX = 400
GC = 50
ST = 100
if i were to spend the rest of the thousand get new bushings...
Cliff notes: save and get the 1,000 and get better stuff because strut bars are primarily cosmetic gl

 

I'd like to add....the purpose of the strut bars is to brace the car. If you aren't doing much to flex the chassis, then the strut bars aren't going to make a difference.

So, if you had the strut bars on the car before you put the sway bars on then drove around, you've already got the chassis braced for the flex.

If you got stiffer springs and sway bars that put more load on the chassis, then put the strut bars on, you will notice the difference because to didn't have a braced chassis.

IMO, go with the pieces that fit within your budget and that complement each other. Knowing that you will always want a stiffer chassis but, you may not always need a sway bar. (Because a sway bar may not always do what you want it to).

Strut bars = stiffer chassis

Sway bars = less body roll in corner

In the end, the less body roll will help you corner better more than stiffening the chassis. After the sway bars are in, then you can stiffen the chassis as needed

 

Ok, I think I have a better idea. Tie bars (I guess the ones that go on the bottom of the car) stiffen the chassis but if I use sway bars instead of tie bars it helps cornering. But with sway bars I need upper front and rear strut bars to stiffen the chassis?

Sorry if that seems confusing but I don't know how else to explain what I 'think' I'm understanding

 

your confusion arises because you insist on relating SWAY BARS and STRUT BARS to each other.

they have NOTHING to do with each other.

 

a swaybar is often called anti-roll(sway) bar, because that is more of what it does, preventing roll rather than promoting. its just easier to say swaybar. this item is a functional, active part of the suspension. ive not seen any swaybar, either front or rear or both, sold relatively cheaply on ebay. a swaybar connects the suspension of the two sides together and resists the independent motion of each. so if on one side, the wheel is being pushed down, the other wheel is being pushed down as well. same thing if one is going up, the other is pushed up. This will in effect add or subtract to the spring rate on the wheel when you need it most, during turning. it theoretically would not change anything when going straight over a speedbump when both wheels are moving the same amount. however youll feel the effect of the swaybar when one wheel goes over a pothole moreso because youve taken away fro mthe independent suspension. you can have a front swaybar connecting the two front wheels, or in the rear, or both.

a strut bar is a structural addition to the chassis. it is not a part of the suspension. however, it does resist unintended displacement of suspension points when the chassis is under handling forces. this actually is more important in cars with macphersion suspension where the suspension pushes a lateral force at the top of the strut mounted to the chassis. this is why its called a strut bar, even tho not all cars have struts. movement of the top strut anchor would mean an extra change in suspension geometry, basically camber, usually in a negative way. but it actually isnt so much of an effect with honda double wishbone suspension. the strut bar still does function as a structural member and helps maintain chassis rigidity.

a tie BAR is another structural member that is intended to resist any chassis flex. these are placed underneath the chassis and bolts to two points on the suspension, but not on a moving part. its just a chassis stiffener.

a tie ROD, as mentioned is part of the steering, most ppl will talk of tie rods as the actual tie rod END that is at the far ends of the steering rack and connects to the knuckle with a ball joint.

the part that will most affect how your car handles is going to be the swaybar, because its the only part that is an active member of the suspension. let me reiterate, a strut bar and tie bar are NOT part of the suspension, a sway bar IS. very general principles of handling are dictated by differences between front and rear traction. oversteer is a CONDITION (*1) where the front tires have RELATIVELY more grip than the rear, so during a turn the rear tires are going to slide out and have a bigger arc, think of a spinning car still moving in one direction basically as ultra extreme exampble. understeer is the opposite - the car does not want to rotate because the rears have more grip. general rule of suspension - stiffen the rear for oversteer, stiffen the front for understeer.

therefore, adding a swaybar to the front will PROMOTE A CONDITION of understeer. and conversely adding a rear swaybar will promote a condition of oversteer. adding both, well you get an all around stiffer car. i recommend the spring/shock setup you currently have, and then adding a rear swaybar. but i also would recommend that adding that front sway bar will give you that "riding on rails" feeling in handling. a lot of ppl seem to like that too. its up to you. you can get a kit and play with it to what you like. you can ask which one is better or "BEST" than the others, they all seem to work, some have adjustable positions. Suspension Techniques is a popular brand.

now theres a lot of cheap options for a front strut bar. when i added a NEUSPEED front strutbar to my otherwise stock CRX, i actually can say i notice a difference in handling, in a positive way it seemed. im not sure if the cheap ones work as well, as i havent tried. but why bother with cheap stuff. now, my opinion from other ppls feedback on REAR strutbars is that they are not useful and do not change anything. looks like it would really get in the way of the hatchspace anyway. doesnt seem worth it.

ive not added any tie bar to my car, my opinion is that either front or rear is unecessary. the crossmembers in the front and back are part of the strongest and most rigidly designed parts of the car. it seems its just flashy metal to me. not saying stock has no room for improvement, i just wouldnt get caught up with adding structural rigidity where its not needed as much. again, its not like it directly affects handling.

Footnotes:
(*1)i say condition because ANY car can be either be driven to a state of understeer or oversteer, without any change to the suspension. changing the suspension to alter the cars handling PROMOTES one condition or the other, but ppl who dont understand this think of cars with certain setups as "oversteer" or "understeer" when either is simply a state during the turn and is always changing in degree. its typical a car can exhibit corner ENTRY oversteer, and corner EXIT understeer. but that alone is dependent on HOW the driver actually drives the car into and out of the turn.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Booz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It is an 89 crx si with stock suspension. -suspension is my next upgrade but I don't have the $1000 to spend on it just yet.

Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

upgrade the shocks, i recommend tokico illuminas.

and get a suspension techniques rear swaybar.

thats all i recommend for you. keep your stock springs.

 

I have Spoon Sports front and rear upper strut bars on my 90 CRX Si, and they make a significant difference. If you want to feel a difference from strut bars, don't go cheap!

Mike

 

i only hear good from explicit speed on all of their bars. (probably what i will be getting soon....)... and other name brand companys... as i understand correctly, the cheaper companys, that use bolts and stuff at the joints and what not dont work as well as completely solid bars, as the flexing and pressure is put on the bolts, so its not as solid.... just my .02

 

tyson killed it.

STICKY!!!

 

I'm just wondering, but is there anyone here that has actually used one of these cheapo ebay strut bar sets? are they really THAT useless?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Coolcat55 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm just wondering, but is there anyone here that has actually used one of these cheapo ebay strut bar sets? are they really THAT useless?</TD></TR></TABLE>


back in the day, i had some. yes- useless bling, bad fit.


neuspeed front upper FTW!

 

Ebay strut bars and similar bars with heim's or joints on each end cause some give which makes the whole function of tieing the 2 and 3 points together kinda useless. A solid bar with no joints is the best option for function. We make ours out of Steel which is 2-3 times stronger then aluminum thus carrying the function out to it's full potential.

I personally as well as customers say there is a night and day difference. Big notice is in the overall handeling and cornering, stays tight and strong.

 

oh, and i almost forgot, i also have an Explicit Speed Performance rear lower tie bar.

i did feel a good difference with that too.

nothing beats an autopower roll bar/ cage though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh, and i almost forgot, i also have an Explicit Speed Performance rear lower tie bar.

i did feel a good difference with that too.

nothing beats an autopower roll bar/ cage though.</TD></TR></TABLE> bwhahahaha you can say that again

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 89efDUSTY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> bwhahahaha you can say that again</TD></TR></TABLE>


time for me to bolt in the 6-point.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">tyson killed it.

</TD></TR></TABLE>
the end


Neuspeed front bar FTW

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


time for me to bolt in the 6-point. </TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Autoworks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
the end


Neuspeed front bar FTW </TD></TR></TABLE>
quick question does the neuspeed bar change from 88-91 CRX models, or by trim? because when i picked up my ST bar the guy was like i have this for 40 bucks and it was so clean, but when i placed it up it didnt fit, but i know its a CRX bar cause he used to autocross with it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 89efDUSTY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


quick question does the neuspeed bar change from 88-91 CRX models, or by trim? because when i picked up my ST bar the guy was like i have this for 40 bucks and it was so clean, but when i placed it up it didnt fit, but i know its a CRX bar cause he used to autocross with it </TD></TR></TABLE>
They are the same 88-91. The Neuspeed will not fit or line up with the front wheels on the ground. It has to be jacked up to install the bar...$40 is a great deal on the bar.

 

damnit i wish i would have known it was so clean too..its when i first started on HT...damnit thats a day killer good info though thanks Autoworks

 

i think the neuspeed bar has issues with the DX DPFI intake manifold. either the neuspeed or some cheapos.


as for fitting it on the ground, or raise up, or one side jacked up, i found the issue with the tight fitment (which is a good thing) is more of an issue of spreading the two arms apart to better fit over the shock mount studs. once i figured that out, it was easy and slid right in.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think the neuspeed bar has issues with the DX DPFI intake manifold. either the neuspeed or some cheapos.


as for fitting it on the ground, or raise up, or one side jacked up, i found the issue with the tight fitment (which is a good thing) is more of an issue of spreading the two arms apart to better fit over the shock mount studs. once i figured that out, it was easy and slid right in.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i had MPFI swap already, but it seemed like it was going to be too tight...damn that sucks...hahaha ohh well damn

 

my neuspeed installs with the wheels on the ground.

i do kinda have to spread the bars to fit them over the nuts. it is a tight fit.

i love the way it looks, and it seems to work. i can notice when i do or dont have it installed.