i think i have finally found the source of the static in my tweeters. i figured out that the static only came from the right side so i traced the source down to the fact that the speaker wire going to the right side crossed the 8g and 0g power wires. is there any way of shielding these wires so this interfierence is not picked up by the speaker wire? should i just try to re route the speaker wire higher behind the dash?

 

The only thing you can do is cross the power wires at a 90 degree angle and improve the ground on the stereo and/or amp. If you have an amp, branch your stereo's ground wire with an 18 gauge wire and run it back to where the amp is grounded. If you don't have an amp, then again, branch off the stereo's ground wire with an 18 gauge; but just use a wire brush to scrape the paint off an integral part of the car's body and ground it with a metal tapping screw and a lock washer. By integral part, I mean a part of the sheet metal that is continuous with the front shock tower. You don't want something like the floor board that is tack welded and glued to the rest of the car. You can verify the quality of your ground using a multimeter to measure the ohm resistance between your ground point and the negative post of the battery. The OEM radio ground is not that great.

A battery that has seen some abuse, a bad alternator, or bad ignition wires can all make your audio system more susceptible to noise, even though you said you traced it to that one speaker wire that crosses the power. The noise in the power has to be generated somewhere.

 

Yes it can be shielded, not worth it though, just re-run the speaker wire.

Sorry hatch, I disagree, the cars floor pan is probably the best grounding point, it is a single piece of metal from the rear wheel "hump" to the fire wall and welded to the A pillars and rocker panels, and any bolt going into it or stud mounted to it, in my experience, make the best grounds, it is the only thing I ground amps to and have never failed. 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Yes it can be shielded, not worth it though, just re-run the speaker wire.

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Easier and more efficient to just do that.

 

so do i just run the speaker wire high up in the dash? like above where i have the power wire coming through the firewall? i have the wire routed under the glovebox and crossing the power wire is unavoidable.

i am also just assuming that this is the cause of the static seeing as there is not really much else that it could be. i tested the tweeter on both sides and it works fine driver's side. it is an annoying static i get when i pass about 25 on my alpine headunit with the gain on the amp truned all the way to the left. all of my grounds read 0 or .01 ohms on the multimeter so i know its not them.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Sorry hatch, I disagree, the cars floor pan is probably the best grounding point, it is a single piece of metal from the rear wheel "hump" to the fire wall and welded to the A pillars and rocker panels, and any bolt going into it or stud mounted to it, in my experience, make the best grounds, it is the only thing I ground amps to and have never failed. 94 </TD></TR></TABLE>

We're either talking about a different car or a different part of the car, because I can take pictures and show you that my floor pan is spot welded on with some kind of glue reinforcing it. It isn't continuous with the shock towers or the frame rails. Another reason you wouldn't want to try grounding to it is because it is covered in tar. All of the Civics I have seen with the carpet removed have the floor pans installed this way. I'm talking about the sheet metal directly below the front seats.

 

Have an 02 Civic in the shop right now, [gutted] tested continuity on floor pan at several locations, all very good, didn't loose any continuity until checking the trunk floor pan, went from .001 - .002 to .017 - .020.

Like I said, I have always used the floor pan, [seat bolts/seat belt bolts] for grounding amps and have never had a problem.
Cars that come in with amp problems, I will reground to floor pan, using seat bolt or seat belt bolt, almost always the solves the problem.

I think on this one we will have to agree to disagree. 94