I have a b18c1 and it seems to me that i am burning oil. I check last sunday and i was at the second dot on the dip stick and i check today and its a little over the first dot.

Can it be burnt piston rings?

Also I checked the tip of my exhaust and there seems to be a little black residue and i never noticed any before.

Help Me I want to fix this problem ASAP.

 

Do a compression and leak down test. This will help in determing if its your valve seals or piston rings.

It is normal for VTEC motors to burn a little bit of oil, the amount will depend on how hard you drive your car everyday. However it does seem like your burning quite a bit of oil.

Ali

 

alright i will do that. does this seem pretty bad?

how much would it cost for new piston rings or valve seals?

 

I dont think its the price of the seals... its the tear down

 

oh yea. if you are going to send it to the shop . i say i can range form 500 and up.you can take the head off yourself then tow it to the shop you can save $$ that way.

 

valve seals are not expensive but if its a crack in your guide, then thats a different story... like said before.... its the disassembly that would cost the most time so thats where ur money would be going to if you going to pull your car into a shop.

 

Is there goo coming from the cam seal? that seems to happen alot..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iammrhappy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what oil should i use ? </TD></TR></TABLE>

5W30 is the recommended viscosity and is preferred at all temperatures. You can also use 10W30 at temperatures above 20 degrees F, but 5W30 is still preferred.

If you want the advantages of synthetic oil - greater resistance to breakdown at high temperatures, better flow characteristics at low temperatures - you can get synthetic oil; the downside of synthetic is higher cost.

Stick to major brands.

 

I also recommend using a product called Prolong, it's an inti friction metal treatment concentrate, i used it the last time I changed my oil, and it's great, keeps engine running great, also makes your oil last longer.

here's the site: http://www.prolong.com

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Exeed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I also recommend using a product called Prolong</TD></TR></TABLE>

I thought that was for... never mind.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxtasy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I thought that was for... never mind.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

ill say it.

male enhancement

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iammrhappy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i heard that if u go synthetic when your car is around 80k miles then it will start leakin because the oil is too thin. is this true?</TD></TR></TABLE>
no, just b/c its synthetic doesnt mean its thinner. i agree w/ nsxtacy--better viscosity and antifriction w/ syn oil. i use mobil 1 but i get it at cost so thats why i use it rather than trying something else. i also have numerous customers using anything from redline, royal purple, amsoil, and other popular namebrand syn oils. i also have this customer that buys cases of oil filters from supposedly japan with name "hemp" on them--im serious---they are green as well they are suppose to be designed for type r's and s's. he has a 05 dc5 s and he is the wierdest guy i ever met. but hey if u want to try something, then try it and post your exp with it. goodluck

 

im in the same situation, i heard it might be the pvc valve, or a good valve job would do the trick

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IgnitionZ05 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a b18c1 and it seems to me that i am burning oil. I check last sunday and i was at the second dot on the dip stick and i check today and its a little over the first dot.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Isn't the normal position for the oil to be halfway between the first and second dot anyways?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bg-33p &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Isn't the normal position for the oil to be halfway between the first and second dot anyways?</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, it supposed to be at the fill mark which is the second dot up from the bottom of the dip stick.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1998b18c1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i also have this customer that buys cases of oil filters from supposedly japan with name "hAmp" on them--im serious---they are green as well they are suppose to </TD></TR></TABLE>
Fixed

For a wedding present my buddy bought some of those filters. I was told they raise the oil pressure 3-4 lbs. I have nothing to base those #'s on, just what he told me. But if it's good enough to go on an S2000 then it's good enough to go on my GSR

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ac_attak &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

No, it supposed to be at the fill mark which is the second dot up from the bottom of the dip stick.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Do you have a Helms manual? Do you agree that the Helms manual is the Bible of Honda engines?

Under the Lubrication section: It says the oil level should be between the dots. I do keep my oil at the upper dot, but there is nothing wrong with it being anywhere inbetween the dots.

 

how many miles on the car? my b18c with a 100k had bad oil rings. do a leak down test. This will give you a better idea on whats wrong.