im about to run a b20 block with a b18c1 head in my ej8.the block has eagle ls rods with cp 12:1cp pistons. my tuning will be a p2t with vafc.my concern is that the p2t will be looking for the knock sensor and not find one. will this be a cause for problems if i go this way

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by raphael &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im about to run a b20 block with a b18c1 head in my ej8.the block has eagle ls rods with cp 12:1cp pistons. my tuning will be a p2t with vafc.my concern is that the p2t will be looking for the knock sensor and not find one. will this be a cause for problems if i go this way</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you tune with Crome or Hondata or something, you can remove the knock sensor all together.

 

so the vafc wont work

 

I'm not an expert on that, but I don't think so. I think the VAFC only adjusts fuel mapping and VTEC engagement; not remove knock sensor. Can someone else chime in?

 

Yea VAFC only adjust fuel and vtec and nothing more. Seriously get a jumper harness to obd1 with a chipped ecu and tow it to a tuner.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yea VAFC only adjust fuel and vtec and nothing more. Seriously get a jumper harness to obd1 with a chipped ecu and tow it to a tuner. </TD></TR></TABLE>y obd 1? so that the computer wont look for the knock sensor. thought of that but i want keep it legit as obd2...ill keep the obd1 stuff as a last resort

 

If you tune your high compression b20 with just a vafc your motor will be done in a week. Go with an obd1 jumper harness and get a professional tune or kiss all your money good bye. its pretty simple.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by smileycvc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you tune your high compression b20 with just a vafc your motor will be done in a week. Go with an obd1 jumper harness and get a professional tune or kiss all your money good bye. its pretty simple. </TD></TR></TABLE>obviously i wont tune it myself...and plus thats not what im asking

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yea VAFC only adjust fuel and vtec and nothing more. Seriously get a jumper harness to obd1 with a chipped ecu and tow it to a tuner. </TD></TR></TABLE>



<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by raphael &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">y obd 1? so that the computer wont look for the knock sensor. thought of that but i want keep it legit as obd2...ill keep the obd1 stuff as a last resort</TD></TR></TABLE>

Because obd1 can run external ROM, a custom ROM that you need made by a tuner. if you do not run a high octane gas and a tune, kiss your motor goodbye, no ifs about it. don't even waste your time with a vafc, get it towed or watch it blow.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by raphael &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">y obd 1? so that the computer wont look for the knock sensor. thought of that but i want keep it legit as obd2...ill keep the obd1 stuff as a last resort</TD></TR></TABLE>

coz obd1 is more cost effective than reprogram obd2 ecu. obd1 store the map on a rewritable chip while map is stored in the cpu which can only be wrote once in obd2 ecu.

and i dont think a piggy back ecu will work in a huge change in engine like that. coz you have to understand how a piggy back system work. it cheats the map signal, and let ecu "think" it reads more air coming in, hence added fuel. however, it can only do so much that the stock map on a stock ecu can't give enough fuel for your engine/compression change even on the ecu's max. fuel output. so a piggy back can only do so much on a light mod engine, i would just say for air filter/mild header mod only.

 

I did not mention converting to obd1 to get ried of the knock. When you get into high tuning youll find out you want something to monitor knock so you could pervent it. Reason behind obd1 is so you could convert stock honda ecu's into complete programable ecu's.

In the end the choice is up to you what you want to do. Atleast with us telling you why to convert youll understand why it blew, if it does.

 

so converting to a obd1 ecu will enable my tuner to tune the system better because an obd1 ecu is rewritable as opposed to a obd2 ecu which is not. in that case can i still use the obd2 dizzy and alternator as well as any other appliances thats belong with an obd2 harness with only an obd2-obd1 jumper with an obd1 ecu??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by raphael &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> in that case can i still use the obd2 dizzy and alternator as well as any other appliances thats belong with an obd2 harness with only an obd2-obd1 jumper with an obd1 ecu??</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, all you need is a chipped OBD-1 ECU and the correct ECU conversion harness. It's "plug-and-play".

 

my boy has an em1 with an lsvtec with 13:1 cp and 202whp.his dialy driver btw. and he only fills it with super(93 octane).hes using a p2t tuned with a vafc and chipped. so im very confused right now on just doing what he did instead of all this obd1 conversion stuff.

 

You will achieve much better results by using a chipped ECU and an application such as Crome or Uberdata for tuning, rather than the V-AFC.

 

any recommendations on which obd1 ecu to use

 

pick up a chipped ecu from: https://honda-tech.com/zero...29192

 

if you want to run a knock sensor still , even if your going with a chipped ecu , you take your top ALT bracket off , using grinder and cutting/grinding disc , make room in the bracket where the bolt goes through for the bigger knock sensor to sit flush. youl have to widen the hole in the bracket as well. than youl need the right size drill bit to run in the hole of the block where the bolt held the bracket before , than i think its a 21.5mm tap to rethread the hole for the knock sensor. than your knock sensor bolt double as a knock sensor and holding the ALT bracket on. theres not many options cause the knock sensor has to be close to the top of a cumbustion chamber of a cylinder. theres a wrietup of this somewhere , i forget where i read it. this is what im doing myself for a buddys engine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackKready &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you want to run a knock sensor still , even if your going with a chipped ecu , you take your top ALT bracket off , using grinder and cutting/grinding disc , make room in the bracket where the bolt goes through for the bigger knock sensor to sit flush. youl have to widen the hole in the bracket as well. than youl need the right size drill bit to run in the hole of the block where the bolt held the bracket before , than i think its a 21.5mm tap to rethread the hole for the knock sensor. than your knock sensor bolt double as a knock sensor and holding the ALT bracket on. theres not many options cause the knock sensor has to be close to the top of a cumbustion chamber of a cylinder. theres a wrietup of this somewhere , i forget where i read it. this is what im doing myself for a buddys engine.</TD></TR></TABLE>i had no clue u could put a knock senor on a b20b that did not have a knock sensor

 

yes indeed you can. all it does is screw into a hole man , lol.

 

sounds easier than it actually is.i bet its really complicated to do this

 

well than , chipped ecu and knock disabled i guess , lol. its pretty much your only 2 options my man.