hey guys.
i was wondering, how powerful is a greddy 18g? i was reading about stuff, and that you shouldn't really get into boost unless you need to (someone's sig)

my setup consists of the 18g kit, 370 injectors, 255 fuel pump, hondata s200b all options, stock block, stock head, aem fpr, precision 375 fmic, skunk2 intake mani, vafc for monitoring purposes, and the 18g manifold.

i'm planning on running 9psi on the internal wastegate spring on a stock block. is this too much? i know it's all about the tune, but is there a safer psi to run? or is 9 fine?

 

get a bigger set of injectors (750cc) also need a good tuner and you should see good numbers upward of 200 plus to the wheels.

 

why would i need to get 750's? i thought injector size isn't really that important in conjunction to the amount of boost you run? i'm only going to be running 8 psi so i figured 370's would do the job.

if you can explain why i need bigger injectors, that'd help a lot! (not trying to be a smartass either!)

thanks!

 

THEN get 550cc I have 2 kits runnung 18g daily driven. 550cc support 330whp and 370cc will support 220whp. If you turn up the fuel pressure 60 psi then install a fuel pump you will max them out. It just easier to run 550cc . it makes the car really reliable and safe. with good start up.
18g is a great street turbo I made 356 whp on 22 psi and backing off to 18psi.
I am running 15 psi on a b16 with 550cc and it easily beats evos.At 15 psi I made 307 whp. It is worth it if you get it. If you want 500 hp then dont get it.

 

i DO have a 255 fuel pump. it's already installed.
i'm running a gsr on a stock block. at 8psi, what do you think i can make with 370's and the setup im running?

i guess i can try and find some 550s. but why is it that the greddy 18g kit comes with 310's? that's a little weird, seeing that you'd need to upgrade?

 

The kit comes with 310cc injectors because it is not ment to be a high hp kit, thats also the reason it came with the shitty little blue box.

Greddy kits are supposed to be a reliable simple street setup that adds around 50-75whp.

If you want to make any power on that kit you need to throw on a 3inch downpipe and some larger injectors and get it a tune, my kit put down 275whp on a bone stock b16.

 

ooh.
well i have a 2.5in --> 3in dp. and hopefully i can find some cheap *** 550's.

those are good numbers. how much psi? and isn't b16 lower compression than b18c1?

 

No you are a little bit confused, USDM B16's are 10.4:1 compression while GSR's are like mid 9's or something and a far superior motor to boost IMO. Honestly just buy some 750cc injectors becuse most likley you are going to upgrade in the future anyways to something with more potential, and there is nothing like having to buy expensive parts twice.

As for your downpipe it should be sufficent, but the main thing that is a restriction is the cast elbow that is on the kit, once you get rid of that you free up a lot of power.

 

gsr = mid 9s? no way. i thought they were 10.5:1 compression. i think it is YOU that is confused it's the b18b that was 9.3:1 or something. b18c has the higher compression.

i think i'm only going to upgrade once i get pistons. i dont want to blow anything by being stupid.

would dsm 450's work as a temporary thing? well, not really temporary, but for the time being until i upgrade my turbo like 2-3 years from now?

i'm not understanding what you mean by getting rid of the cast elbow that's on the DP. ??

 

Ok. Let's knock all this out of the box right now, and get some things cleared up.

First. USDM GS-R compression stock is 10.0:1 , while the B16 is 10.4:1.

2ndly, The Greddy kit was made as a simple reliable setup using a Mitsubishi/Garrett hybrid turbocharger. The turbo itself is 640cfm at over 14 psi (this translates to about 45lbs/min, just slightly larger than a 20g. This translates to about 340whp maximum, with its small exhaust wheel.

The problem with upgrading the turbo is not even injector or even "blue box", related (later models used the Greddy E-manage, which is tunable, and isn't bad for hp upto about 400whp.. I've used the E-manage on both Honda and Mitsu Evo VIII-IX).

The problem is the wastegate flapper door and hole. It is actually too small to hold over 14psi of boost steadily. This hole needs to be ported slight in order to allow more power, as well as the downpipe itself. (the downpipe adapter that connects to the back of the turbo can also be bored out, but because of its material contains iron, this is something that may not be able to done with your run of the mill house tools.) The wastegate should use a boost controller to keep boost steady as much as possible, but don't expect more than about 330-350whp. If these are the levels you're looking for, it may be wiser to simply upgrade to an internally gated GT28X series of turbos in which they can be used as a direct swap in.

 

theshodan, thanks for clearing that up

i dont think i'll be going anywhere close to 14 psi for a while. i'll stick to 9 for a bit, upgrade the exhaust mani and maybe get a few other things.

i just want to exceed 250whp tuned @ 9 psi on a stock block. do you think cam gears are necessary on stock gsr cams? would that help anything?

 

btw quick question.

lets say the internal wastegate is set at roughly 9 psi, and i want to run 9 psi. is a boost controller still necessary?

also, i just checked the boost gauge plastic wires, and it's crimped. how can i fix it?

 

Cam gears really aren't needed on a mild setup. But its nice to play with them on the dyno if you have the time/money.

For injectors, I agree that you can run 220whp on 370cc's (85% duty cycle), and ~260whp absolute max (100% duty cycle). With about the same size turbo, I've seen gsr's make 250whp on 5-6psi, and past 300whp at almost 10psi. In other words, those injectors might be a tad small.

Boost controllers are good for external gates while pushing 15+ psi. One big reason people get an EBC is for in-car boost adjustment. The main reason people get a MBC is to get more boost from the same WG spring/actuator for just a few bucks.

 

The kit is great IMHO for street/autox. The spool is insane and basically breaths to redline. I have 15 psi at peak torque and 12 psi at peak HP. See sig for results. This is also on a stock fuel pump and 550 cc injectors.

The DP bend is definitelly creating backpressure which is inhibiting more power. UrbanSi had a custom DP and he got great #'s from his kit.

My setup is lowered CR to 9.9:1

And according to the HELMS the USDM B16A2 had 10.2:1

edit: That damn cast manifold is a bitch too. I hate it at the moment. I'm trying to get the maniofld bolts and nuts off at the moment.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gsr x civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">theshodan, thanks for clearing that up

i dont think i'll be going anywhere close to 14 psi for a while. i'll stick to 9 for a bit, upgrade the exhaust mani and maybe get a few other things.

i just want to exceed 250whp tuned @ 9 psi on a stock block. do you think cam gears are necessary on stock gsr cams? would that help anything? </TD></TR></TABLE>

The exhaust manifold upgrade is not going to help you. Once again, its the wastegate and flapper hole as well as downpipe that is going to hold you back. On the stock setup, you'll maybe reach about 250whp at about 10psi, but a boost controller is recommended until you want to upgrade the whole system.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blaze the chemi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

My setup is lowered CR to 9.9:1

And according to the HELMS the USDM B16A2 had 10.2:1
</TD></TR></TABLE>

For 99-00 B16A2 yes.

For EG6 92-95 it is 10.4:1. So we were both right

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheShodan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The exhaust manifold upgrade is not going to help you. Once again, its the wastegate and flapper hole as well as downpipe that is going to hold you back. On the stock setup, you'll maybe reach about 250whp at about 10psi, but a boost controller is recommended until you want to upgrade the whole system.</TD></TR></TABLE>

so how do you suggest i go about this?
weld the internal wastegate open and get an external wastegate?

and what about that downpipe? it's a 2.5 to 3in. should i just go full 3 in turbo back or what?

 

i got the greddy 18g turbo kit on my car.
my setup:
gsr block
LS crank
LS Eagle Rods
JE 10:1 pistons
GSR Head
Skunk2 Stage 2 cams
AEM Cam Gears
Upgraded valves/springs/retainers


And im running an aftermarket fuel pump wit 750CC injectors(750's/550's/etc there all the same price)So why not get bigger ones and need be, durning the tune they can tune down the injectors. Its better have to a little bigger injectors then maxing out smaller ones.
My Dyno numbers were:250 at the wheels and 200 torque.(With this turbo kit your in full boost by 4K.)
My problem wih this setup is im using 2 1/2 inch exhaust which is to small and my cams are to aggressive.A Full 3 inch exhaust(including down pipe)will make a huge power difference with this setup. Im also going to use stock gsr or type r cams and then horsepower numbers will increase

 

lol 7 months later. haha.
well i made 300whp so i'm set thanks

 

at what psi did you make 300 at?

 

hahahahhaa 750cc get some 550s and a good tune man........even cheaper route...dsm 450's are enough for your combo at 9-10 psi

 

gsr is higher comp than a b16 and a b18b isnt 9:3:1 its just 9:1 i have one and in the middle of boositng it my self

 

I did 309whp 242wtq on a 81mm B18C block but it was built at the time and ran hondata.

I ran 880cc injectors and 255lph pump and I would seriously recommend goin with a big injector to be safe about it. at 9psi dont expect more than 220whp at the most to the wheels