NEED HELP!!! Car won't hold a charge
Ok, so here is the problem. I have a 2000 Accord with a H22 swap. We pulled the dash out several months ago and the car hasn't been the same. Now, like most people I thought there was a problem with the harness since we messed with it. However, I had the alternator tested and they said the diodes were bad. So I bought a reman alternator and placed it in. Well, same problem. Diodes are bad. Maybe its the alternator again. After all, its a reman. My question is, is there any way that I can be shorting out the diodes? If so, what is causing it and where do I begin to look? I am going tomorrow and exchanging that reman for another one but I am gonna have it tested before I install it. Any help is greatly apprciated.
Ok so I replaced the alternator AGAIN. I had it tested before I installed it and it was all good. That didn't fix the problem though. I may have burned this alternator up as well. What would cause my alternators to go bad? Please someone help me out on this one.
If you are frying the diodes all the time...
You may be drawing too much current through them (like shorting the output to ground). I don't know how pulling the dash would cause that much draw if something got screwed up. I would think it's more related to the wiring for the swap. There is also a wire that controls the alternator output depending on the battery's state of charge and other current draw demands. Maybe that wire is hacked up and the alt keeps blowing it's mind at full output.
You may be drawing too much current through them (like shorting the output to ground). I don't know how pulling the dash would cause that much draw if something got screwed up. I would think it's more related to the wiring for the swap. There is also a wire that controls the alternator output depending on the battery's state of charge and other current draw demands. Maybe that wire is hacked up and the alt keeps blowing it's mind at full output.
Have you done a parasitic load test yet?
The diodes are merely part of the voltage regulators that control DC output of the alternator. Keep in mind that alternators actually produce AC current, while automotive circuits require DC.
Anyhow, most automotive stores will test a battery or alternator for free. Not sure why you think that an alternator would be the culprit if the car can't hold a charge, as that is the battery's job.
The diodes are merely part of the voltage regulators that control DC output of the alternator. Keep in mind that alternators actually produce AC current, while automotive circuits require DC.
Anyhow, most automotive stores will test a battery or alternator for free. Not sure why you think that an alternator would be the culprit if the car can't hold a charge, as that is the battery's job.
I had the alternator tested and they said it was bad. I had the battery tested and they said it was good. So not sure. Where is this wire that you are talking about from the alternator?
Here is a new twist. I charged my car and usually its fine for a bit. However, when I turned on my blinker the trip flashed and the speedo needle bounced with the blinker. So, does that mean that there is a short some where along those lines/ Would it be enough to eat my battery or to fry the diodes?
Here is a new twist. I charged my car and usually its fine for a bit. However, when I turned on my blinker the trip flashed and the speedo needle bounced with the blinker. So, does that mean that there is a short some where along those lines/ Would it be enough to eat my battery or to fry the diodes?
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