Yesterday on the highway my lower radiator hose clamp came off and the hose came off causeing all my coolent to spill all over the highway. so i pulled over right away, my temp gauge was pegged at "H" and my check engine light came on. The clamp had rusted so much and came off. so i replace the clamp and fill her up. starts right up and holds a nice idle and the temp gauge went to the normal operating temp. everything is fine i let it sit for 10 mins to get the air bubbles out. then i start driving and when i came to a stop the car dies. now the car wont hold an idle.

im thinking IAC. now what i didnt tell you is that the CEL never went off. its still on, im going to reset it tonight and see what happens.

my question is, could the CEL be telling the IAC to kill the idle cause it is still seeing a temp code?

 

Check your FITV. When you ran out of coolant, it stopped flowing through the FITV (located under TB), and may have caused the screw to come loose. Tighten that and see what happens.

 

there could be air bubbles in your coolant system, so bleed or burp it. be sure to squeeze the radiator hose to check for air and force it out.

also check the CEL. if it comes on, then you turn your car back on and it's gone, it's still there, the light just isn't on.
here are directions for how to check it and the list of codes:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1901557

it sounds like either your FITV or you TPS, but your cel will tell you

 

Thanks for all the help guys

after work ill pull the code and see whats up.

 

alright so im throwing a "6" a ECT - water temperature sensor

i dont know how that could be making my car die at idle though.

 

I reset the ecu on the 28Th and ran good for 4 days then today it did it again, it stalled on me when i came to a stop.

 

that's weird..and it wasn't overheating when it stalled? is code 6 the only cel you have and have you checked it again since it died?
I'd try to bleed the coolant lines again or if you haven't already. There's two ways to do it.
1-open the bleeder valve by your t-stat and let your car run till a thin stream of coolant comes out of it
or how i always do it,
2-take your radiator cap off and start your car. turn your heat on full blast and let it warm up till your fan kicks on. once it's warm rev it up a few times and let it idle and give it a few more revs. then give squeeze your radiator hoses a little to see if air is caught in them. if air is in your lines it'll start to bubble and splash up so be careful. once there are no more bubbles fill it up with some more 50/50coolant.


*edit* maybe the ect sensor went bad? if bleeding the lines doesn't work, try replacing it and resetting your ecu.

 

ya code 6 was the only cel, also now i am not seeing any cel's.

i have already bleed the coolant a couple of times.

it was not overheating when it stalled, temp was fine.

 

air in the coolant wont make it stall , lol. if its giving you an ECT problem , than replace the ECT dude. and i think idriveahonda , is confusing the FITV with the IACV.

 

i reset the ecu and now i have no cel