got tuned the other night with crome street tune. tuner will be kept confidential for now.

1 2 3 4 (240, 230, 240, 240) were the compressions before the tune. bone stock jdm itr with i/e

connected the wideband to the header because there was no room to fit on the test pipe. original o2 sensor was disconnected.

the stock tune provided to me by phearable was used to clean up the maps. the program was being used on the laptop for tuning. this is the same programming that has been run ever since the swap late summer last year. i was under the impression that the chip used during the tune was indeed exactly the original phearable tune.

now, heres the problem. when the wideband was connected, it was reading VERY LEAN at around > 17:1. this was during idle. right away i thought something was wrong, but tuner insisted it would change when we start driving around.

while cruising, afr was still VERY LEAN at the same reading. got on the highway and did a 3rd gear pull from 3000rpm all the way to redline. i personally looked at the aem uego during the pull and it still had VERY LEAN of about 17:1. i immediately told the tuner something was wrong that maybe the uego was reading wrong. he agreed so we pulled back into the garage.

we checked the plugs and yes, i was running lean. they were white and showed i was running HOT. i dont remember how they looked from before the tune. i honestly dont remember if they were ever white when i looked at them by myself. we double checked to make sure everything was connected properly and that the uego was calibrated, if it even needs to be calibrated. it was a brand new aem uego never been opened and according to the garage owner, its like a 1 in a million chance its defective. everything was decided to be working "properly" and we went on with the tune.

i start the car, and the tuner decided to mess with the maps. according to phearable, his map should make my car run rich. according to the wideband, its running lean which makes no sense. so we richened up the maps and the wideband responded accordingly. afr dropped to around 14-15 idle. cruising was tuned to be around 14-15.

now for the highway pulls. again, 3rd gear pulls starting at 2000rpm all the way to rev limiter at 8600. it was a risk to take my eyes off the road to look at the wideband but i had to see for myself and it was being tuned to around 13:1 which was comforting to me.

i still have 1 hr left of tuning owed to me that i will most likely go back next week to finish up. this time, ill be looking for as close to 14.7 afr idle and cruising and 13.0 afr wot.

now, the reason why i couldnt sleep was the fact that i drove around with a afr of around 17 and higher and did a highway pull with the same afr. if that wideband was indeed accurate the entire time and that phearable's maps which were used as the base map actually did make me extremely lean, then chances are, my pistons expanded and fucked up my block and ill be burning oil sooner than later.

to see if my block is indeed fucked, will a compression test show that? if not, what will without tearing into the block? i seriously need to know so i can atleast calm down knowing my engine is fine. my idle actually dropped down to 750 than the usual 800. this happened several times. it NEVER dropped that low before. im not too sure what this mean but it doesnt make me happy.

no flames please. i need help with this one fellas.

 

Wow this is a good question that I'd like to know too. Gonna be getting tuned soon
I hope everything goes well man.

 

i cant ******* sleep bro

 

hope everything works out. What kind of tuner would let you do anything at 17 afr?

 

When you did the first pull did you hear the car detonate? I guess it didnt bec you would have mentioned it. At 17 it would be like listening to a rapid percussion ensemble! Dont loose sleep on it is my opinion. Get a 2nd opinion with another tuner as you tune further using a different wideband. BTW, 13 wot is a little too lean in my opinion. Of course that depends on atmoshperic conditions over there...

 

it sounds like you are over reacting a bit. if you ever noticed, a STOCK ITR ECU will run very lean while cruising or light throttle, with timing very advanced. if you are that worked up over it then do a compression and leak down test to determine the health of the motor. the AEM UEGO is also known to read a bit differently from what Ive been told. I use the AEM as well and my tuner uses the PLX and they are a good 1/2 point different from each other. not only that but as far as I know most tuners will work their way up to redline rather than just tuning idle and then going to do WOT pulls to redline. you have to remember that not all motors are the same. not all tuners are the same. not all tuning programs are the same. tuning idle to 14.7 might work on one car, but doesnt mean that is optimal for your car. my car idles at like 11.5:1 on stock cams because I have huge injectors. so do the tests, confirm the health of the motor. if its not blowing oil or smoke now than I see no reason to worry about it. if you are still worried about it, suck it up and go to a different tuner who uses their own equipment and tuning programs. you might pay more but at least you can sleep at night.

 

i also agree with "i love lamp" about the compression check and leakdown test and tuner that has his own equipment.

as far as the AEM widebands go i personally dont trust them. i had 3 in my turbo car and they all read really lean, the cars on its 4th year with the same motor making over 500hp so if the AEM's were true it would definitly be a puddle of aluminum right now. we use an FJO wideband for street tunes and a dynojet wide band at the shop, because it came with a free dyno.

 

wow, im sure its fine, its a honda right? do a compression test before your next tuning session.

keep us updated, cause im about to take the same adventure as you

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1930530 - i guess you decided to go ahead with it eventhough everyone told you not to. anyhow, how much hp did you end up making? if all you did was drive around on street, you waisted your time unless you have serios mods like turbo.

if all you make is 10-20 more hp than stock odds are you're probably fine and if there was damage it was probably minimal - definately do a compression test, only takes minutes. you should never have a/f that lean under wot, even narroband will show you that you're running that lean..

what to do? well, what setup do you have? just intake/header? drive on stock ecu, i wouldn't even bother to get it tuned. you'll make give/take 5whp

 

In the archives there is a lot of bad news about the Uego set-up. I would try something else. I would also try a reputable tuner. Apparently you're in Jersey. Don't know which part, but there are few decent tuners in the area.


<----Runs on a phearable base map for over a year now and haven't had any problems.

 

ive been out the whole day. heres some updates for you guys

before the tune, idle was perfectly steady at 800rpm with the headlights turned on or off. now, its 800 while the headlights are on, and 700 when off. even goes down lower to high 600s and feels like the car might stall.

for some odd reason, when i make medium speed 30-40mph left turns, my oil pressure warning light turns on and flashes/fades and turns back off when i go straight again. only does it on med speed left hand turns, never right turns. this NEVER EVER happened before during the entire time i owned the car. i got my oil change right before the tune, 2.3L put in by the mech (yes, i know its higher than spec) and i also put the spoon style clamp on the oil filter to prevent expansion. other than that, everything should be the same. any idea why the warning light is going off now AFTER tuning? theres no CEL and oil level is a bit above the 2nd dot. i forgot to mention that taking the old filter off was a bitch so maybe something was knocked loose trying to get the old filter off???

ill be checking the plugs tomorow to see if its running lean or rich.


so a compression test/leakdown will confirm if anything was damaged?


Modified by CXtypeR at 1:51 AM 3/25/2007


Modified by CXtypeR at 2:04 AM 3/25/2007

 

damn. i'm too drunk to read all this now

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CXtypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ive been out the whole day. heres some updates for you guys

before the tune, idle was perfectly steady at 800rpm with the headlights turned on or off. now, its 800 while the headlights are on, and 700 when off. even goes down lower to high 600s and feels like the car might stall.

for some odd reason, when i make medium speed 30-40mph left turns, my oil pressure warning light turns on and flashes/fades and turns back off when i go straight again. only does it on med speed left hand turns, never right turns. this NEVER EVER happened before during the entire time i owned the car. i got my oil change right before the tune, 2.3L put in by the mech (yes, i know its higher than spec) and i also put the spoon style clamp on the oil filter to prevent expansion. other than that, everything should be the same. any idea why the warning light is going off now AFTER tuning? theres no CEL and oil level is a bit above the 2nd dot. i forgot to mention that taking the old filter off was a bitch so maybe something was knocked loose trying to get the old filter off???

ill be checking the plugs tomorow to see if its running lean or rich.


so a compression test/leakdown will confirm if anything was damaged?


Modified by CXtypeR at 1:51 AM 3/25/2007


Modified by CXtypeR at 2:04 AM 3/25/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>

before you even think abut driving the car you need to check youur oil l evel. oil light = not good. then change yuur pluugs (gap thhem correctly as well), check cap /rotoor/ wires, and see hhow it is after that. the comp/leakdwn tests will show how healthhy thhe motori s. if any cylinders are drastically less coompared too the rest, run the leakdwn on that cylinder and s ee whehre you are loosing cocmpressioin. wow this keyboaord sucks *****

 

2.3 liters is only 2.43 quarts... u need 4-4.5 quarts

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hypeR speed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2.3 liters is only 2.43 quarts... u need 4-4.5 quarts</TD></TR></TABLE>


My thoughts exactly!!!! Who is your mechanic? FIRE HIM!!!!!!! Put oil in your car immediately!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hypeR speed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2.3 liters is only 2.43 quarts... u need 4-4.5 quarts</TD></TR></TABLE>


yup, when you said you only put 2.3litres in it, alarm bells started ringing...

 

oh ****, theres 4.3 qts.

it was late last night and i was refering to tranny oil level

4.3qts. sorry about that.

i took the same s turns several times and the oil light went off during the left turns and never on right turns. i checked my oil level last night and its on the 2nd dot after driving so im sure my oil level is good.

do you guys think the oil sensor got knocked loose while trying to remove the oil filter? he had a problem because it was so tight that he was doing anything to do it.

 

saw why the oil light goes off. i *think* this might be the reason. the single yellow/red wire connected to the sensor was ripped off the sensor. checked oil level and i didnt lose any oil so it *might* be the reason why.

what other reasons could there be?

 

stop worrying... it's no big deal