Im curious as to how much boost, daily driven, can stock ITR rods handle with just lower compression standard bore pistons.

 

Type-R's hate boost. Why are you going to lower compression, that is the whole idea of the Type-R is to have high compression! If you were going to run boost why didn't you get a GSR.

 

Dont go higher than about 8psi.

 

I heard with stock motor intenals no more the 6psi. and the guy still ran 13.3

 

7psi before cracked ring landing. 14lbs on JE pistons, Crower Rods at 9.5:1 compression.

 

Why do you feel the need to make smart *** comments? does it make you feel bigger? Do you have any experience with a boosted "R" ?

Did you answer his question? no so STFU

To answer your question, I have ran 10 daily with no problems, but 8 is really where you would want to be. I drive 110 miles a day without any problems on the bottem end


[Modified by cetane, 11:43 AM 5/24/2002]

 

Right now im at about 5lbs. Everything is peechy keen, less the oil/exhaust leak which will be fixed this weekend.

yb-b0t: open dumptube from wastegate + spool + vtec = sounds like an atomic bomb.

 

Did you lower the compression? just curious: lowering your compression, you lose power, adding boost you gain that power back. seems to me like lowering the compression and then running only 5psi is basically the same or close to running high compression with no boost. I dont know what kind of power you are making and I could be entirely wrong, just askin. Sounds like a lot of work for just a more HP than the high compression/no boost setup would be.

 

Everything is stock internally right now. I honestly don't know what i'm making HP wise right but i'm guessing pretty close to 200? As for the work, i feel that the work put into building an NA setup for 200whp is just about as much labor as installing a turbo kit. As long as you aren't boost greedy and aren't stupid with how long you boost for, the motor should last with proper maintainence.

 

Its all in the tuning. Most common problem is cracking ringlands. I suggest talking to jinxproof he has built stock bottomed cars with lots of boost and it has held up. Proper fuel management is a must. Plus you need to respect the power the limits of your engine. There may still be posts of graphs with stock itrs boosted making around 280 to the wheels with nice torque. You may want to talk to SGT too he has experience with them.

 

How do you as seems the only JRSC chippin in here feel about the difference of 10lbs S/C'ed, VS Turbo. To me, and in my experience, the biggest difference seems to be problems when the turbo initially spools which causes issues on the bottom ends. SC's "spool" if you will, is based on a belt driven system, so never really spikes or has much boost creep (atleast my friend w/ a JRSC on his GSR never did.) Not critisizing, just curious your opinions as well..

IMHO, there is a large difference between turbo boost @ 10lbs and SC boost @ 10lbs. There is typically the difference of FMIC, and then the WIK for the S/C which *most*, not all, seem to lack in their setups.

 

Hmmm, why didnt I boost a GSR? Because a Boosted R would rock a boosted GSR......who says you have to lower compression? All you people that hate on boosted R's dont know **** about turbo or what your talking about, so next time do yourself a favor and STFU!!

 

eaxactly . the na ***** are back in effect
what a bunch of homos. im soo sick of hearing the r is too high comp for nitrous , for turbo , just leave it na . those are the people who are scared of fi .

 

haha, R's make GREAT turbo'd cars. Just can't do anything half assed or you will regret it in the long run...

 

so stock rods, je pistons about 9.0-1, and hondata is good for *up* to 14psi?

 

i would think so.

 

If you are gonna tear your motor apart just to replace pistons, you might as well do the job right and get rods too.

Don't cut corners man, it doesn't pay off. Do it right the first time or don't do it at all.