Wassup guys, its actually been a while since I've posted a topic on here lol.

Anywho, I was wondering to all the suspension/damper runners, what your <U>Ideal</U> damper setting is. Right now, I have am running some BuddyClub Racing Spec Dampers w/ pillowball uppermounts (15-way) and I love the way they feel on the street. Pretty Fvckin fantastic actually. But the other day, when driving, I did a third gear pull on the freeway and my rear end felt a little "wandery". Not like the feeling like it was going to break loose though, but it "wandered/Delayed" if that makes sense. When I was on Espelirs, I didn't really notice this feeling though, but maybe I wasn't paying attention to it.

Some of the changes I went through after I sold the Espelirs were:

going from 16" AP1's to 17" AP2 v2's to 18" Volk LE37T's.

<U>My damper setting right now:</U>

Rear: 5 Clicks Away from full Stiff

Front: Between Full Soft/Full Stiff

Heighth: Tuckin Tire all around, but not to the extreme though.

I want my new settings to virtually stop the play in my rear end on the freeway, if not, the closest to stopping it. Something more agreesive than street use but not to the point of track settings. I was thinking of lowering the rear a little more than the front the keep the rear end "planted" in a way. Let me know guys. Thanks

-Don

 

I say raise it a little (10mm maybe?) and soften up the rear damping a little, then try again.

During your 3rd gear pull did you go straight or around a bend?

Did you ever resolve that axle problem?

 

what spring rate ?
i had the BC's on mine wiht 10K front and rear

i ran them at
12 clicks front / 10 clicks rear
full soft all around
8 clicks front / 10 rear

all were good depends on how i felt i guess...

but in wet conditions i liked the full soft most

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr. Projekt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I say raise it a little (10mm maybe?) and soften up the rear damping a little, then try again.

During your 3rd gear pull did you go straight or around a bend?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh. Just going straight. But when changing lanes, it feels very playful though at the point where I have to use my second hand as caution to control it. But jsut doing a third gear pull in general you feel very "floaty" hahah

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr. Projekt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you ever resolve that axle problem?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Apparently, when I had the shakes very in the begininng, we called CV joints. I took it to my "Trusty old Vietnamese Mechanic To "swap" em. Apparently, Thart didn't work. After I ripped the teeth off my ring and pinion, I got that replaced and I took it to a shop where all my s2 buddies bring it to. My joints were never swapped. They swapped them and it was mooth as glass.

<U>food for though:</U> don't trust old Vietnamese Mechanics! LOL


Modified by OBSeRiouSo at 10:10 AM 3/23/2007

 

your preloaded correct?

also have you done a alignment since puttin gon the BC's?

 

ZEAL Function b6.

Lowered 2'' all the way around, tucking ap2 rims on level ground.

6 settings. 8kg springs.

I daily drive on setting 4, front and rear.

 

dampining settings varies on how you drop your car and spring rate..

some people drop der car and just set it to the height they wanted... not knowing that could affect the weight balance distribution of the car...

when i lower a car, i measure the cars ride height from fender to ground (front and rear)... and let say you wanna do a 2 inches drop. subtract 2 inches EQUALLY (front and rear) whatever the stock ride height measurement was... and do a proper alignment..

once those are done, then i set my dampining...

thats why i dont do SPRINGS cuz some measures (example) 1.5 inch (front) and 2 inch (rear) drop and i have no idea whats the purpose...

 

on buddy club racing spec,

best "street" ride for me was, i'm dropped a little over 1.5 inches.

7F-10R

10F-12R

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OBSeRiouSo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


<U>food for though:</U> don't trust old Vietnamese Mechanics! LOL
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hey man I'm getting old...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by S@nt0s &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your preloaded correct?

also have you done a alignment since puttin gon the BC's?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not yet. Im plannin gon too when I get the chance. but that won't be for while blah!

Yes its preloaded to. Thats where I was getting at. Im pretty sure when I lowered the car some more, all the Euro specs got retarted in some way because I went with a bigger wheel and a desired drop heigth of choice. My right RR wheel has more - camber than the left. Alignment it is

 

That would do it, different alignment specs L vs. R side.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FR-MOB: Jerk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dampining settings varies on how you drop your car and spring rate..

some people drop der car and just set it to the height they wanted... not knowing that could affect the weight balance distribution of the car...

when i lower a car, i measure the cars ride height from fender to ground (front and rear)... and let say you wanna do a 2 inches drop. subtract 2 inches EQUALLY (front and rear) whatever the stock ride height measurement was... and do a proper alignment..

once those are done, then i set my dampining...

thats why i dont do SPRINGS cuz some measures (example) 1.5 inch (front) and 2 inch (rear) drop and i have no idea whats the purpose...

</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats how I do it.

Fender to the ground.

I think mine at OEM height was something 27'', and now its something 25''.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OBSeRiouSo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Not yet. Im plannin gon too when I get the chance. but that won't be for while blah!

Yes its preloaded to. Thats where I was getting at. Im pretty sure when I lowered the car some more, all the Euro specs got retarted in some way because I went with a bigger wheel and a desired drop heigth of choice. My right RR wheel has more - camber than the left. Alignment it is </TD></TR></TABLE>

oh yea once the height is changed then the camber/alignment will be slightly off... plus as Jerk face said, measuring tape helps to balance the complete set up damping is the last thing you wanna do after alignment and all to set to your driving style...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by S@nt0s &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

oh yea once the height is changed then the camber/alignment will be slightly off... plus as Jerk face said, measuring tape helps to balance the complete set up damping is the last thing you wanna do after alignment and all to set to your driving style...</TD></TR></TABLE>

dampening with the clickers at the top, or actually changing the pre loads with the wrenches?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Francesco &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

dampening with the clickers at the top, or actually changing the pre loads with the wrenches?</TD></TR></TABLE>

damping from up top should be the last thing.... in my opinion

 

Thanks fellers

 

Preload is factory set and shouldn't be changed until it is a last resort.