My dipstick tube is becoming a pain in my block...

I bought an '01 ITR about a month ago and the first time I went to check the oil the dipstick tube came out with the dipstick. I got a new tube and headed to my dealer to have them replace it. I pulled it out again today.

Now, when I had it replaced the first time, I inspected what they did. The bottom flange on the tube was sitting about 1/8" off the block. I was told this was normal when they are replaced, because shops don't have the means to press fit them like was done originally. The thing felt solid, so I took their word for it. (Mistake 1?)

I searched HT and have seen that this is a common issue, and have seen Willards fix (cleverly named 'dipstick t00b' for those trying to find it). I intend to use some sort of high temp liquid gasket next time around. I didn't see any mention of the flange not sitting flush with the block, however. I am wondering if the dealer is just handicapped or if what they're saying is actually true.

If it's not, can someone tell me how to press fit it flush with the block. I'd like to do it myself but my tools are limited at the moment. Plus, they'll fix it for free under warranty.

Thanks

 

if the dealer put the new one on..i would have them fix it.

 

^^^x2


if they still cant fix it i think he used jb weld on it. if it comes loose after that then your in a world of wtf

 

I intend to have the dealer "fix" it, as I mentioned. But they "fixed" it the first time and were confident the 1/8" gap was normal. I'd rather go in knowing whether or not that is true. If not then maybe I can take some ideas to them on how to install it properly.

I'll use JB weld as a last resort. I am just going to use a liquid gasket for now.

 

You need to search : https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=203783

 

I had the same issue fixed under warranty and the dealer knew to use honda bond to secure the tube.

 

This is how i fixed my dipstick-problem, after i bought a new one..

Was told by the dealer that the new item was an uprated/thicker one...

Pic is of a Prelude engine but you get the idea...
I painted the hammer and extension by the way hehe..

 

Do not use a hammer like shown above, cut a socket and "slide" it around the tube at the bottom. Then hammer the socket, not the tube.

NM, he's not hammering the tube in the pic, however I personally have a socket just for this reason. Happens on a lot of cars, not just our ITR's.

 

I do know that the ONLY way I have been able to fix the issue is by getting a new tube. JB Weld and etc.. only fixed mine temporarily.

Takes more time to remove the header than to actually replace the tube. IMO, I would change the oil afterwards incase you create metal fragments replacing it.

 

OG undercover:
I know how to search, you however, seem to lack basic reading and/or comprehension skills. My initial post said "I searched HT and have seen that this is a common issue, and have seen Willards fix (cleverly named 'dipstick t00b' for those trying to find it)"

My issue isn't with the fix, it's with the 1/8" gap the dealer seems content with between the flange and the block. As well, starting a new thread with 'tube' spelt using english not AOL talk helps others find the topics.

Kernel:
I read about the Honda Bond in Willards thread, however, my Acura/Honda dealers have no clue what I am talking about. I live in Canada, so maybe it's an Honda America product, or perhaps it's a slang term for the actual product. Best I can figure is that it's a high temp silicone, is this the case? Thanks.

hondakar2:
Those are some fancy paint skills. That's more or less how the dealer did the fix originally, but the flange was still sitting up from the block. They mangled the one side of the flange, bending it downwards. Thanks.

Dave_B:
Good idea with the socket, that should distribute the load a little better, I'll suggest it. Thanks.

 

The tube can not go in to where it sits completely flush. *shrugs*

 

I have never seen the dipstick t00b sitting flush on the block. 1/8" is about what I'm familiar with as being "normal." I've had loose t00b issues on 2 blocks. At one point I considered flaring the t00b from the underside (remove the oil pan), but I didn't follow through on my idea.

 

Alright, glad to know the gap is normal. Seems like a stupid design to me.

Thanks a lot guys.

And flaring the tube would work well, maybe when I replace my oil pan with the baffled variety.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Scotty2H &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I read about the Honda Bond in Willards thread, however, my Acura/Honda dealers have no clue what I am talking about. I live in Canada, so maybe it's an Honda America product, or perhaps it's a slang term for the actual product. Best I can figure is that it's a high temp silicone, is this the case? Thanks.
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Yea HondaBond is like a silicone sealer. It's not slang or anything. I wonder why your dealer doesn't know what it is. I use it for my valve cover gasket.