I have a h22a4, from what i understand the compression is very low. id say about 9.8:1.

I just bought some type s pistons and rods. If i mill the head .030 the compression calculator says 11.7:1 w/ the type s pistons. is that too much? .020 says 11.4:1.

i dunno what i should do, i plan on getting cams (stg 1) and adj cam gears next.

when i did a compression check i got 160 across the board, i know thats kinda low. but the engine runs good.

any input would be great. daily driver, that has to run low 13's.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by THC07 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a h22a4, from what i understand the compression is very low. id say about 9.8:1.

I just bought some type s pistons and rods. If i mill the head .030 the compression calculator says 11.7:1 w/ the type s pistons. is that too much? .020 says 11.4:1.

i dunno what i should do, i plan on getting cams (stg 1) and adj cam gears next.

when i did a compression check i got 160 across the board, i know thats kinda low. but the engine runs good.

any input would be great. daily driver, that has to run low 13's.</TD></TR></TABLE>

160 seems really low. We dont know what cams(stg 1) are. What brand? Every cam manufacturer has a diff/ profile for THEIR stage 1 cams. Crower will be diff. from Jun, which will be diff. from Skunk 2 which will be diff. from Rocketmotorsports. And if this is going into a 5th gen, unless you are a hell of a driver, its going to mighty difficult to run low 13's.

Like I said, stg 1 cams arent that aggressive, but some more so than others. Milling the head, are you simply doing it to bump the compression? if it needs to be straightened, do it just enough to straighten it. Don't do it as a means of compression. Is that .3 compression really going to be a diff?

 

im undecided on which brand cam. why are low 13's gonna be hard? the H is in a civic ek.

which N/A cam would you recomend?

yeah, i was just thinking of milling for more compression. but maybe your right. ill scratch that off the list.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by THC07 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im undecided on which brand cam. why are low 13's gonna be hard? the H is in a civic ek.

which N/A cam would you recomend?

yeah, i was just thinking of milling for more compression. but maybe your right. ill scratch that off the list.</TD></TR></TABLE>

well...when you originally posted, you didnt say what car. So an h22a4 naturally comes in a 5th gen prelude, which are consider the fatty of the prelude. So low 13's in a 5th gen all motor is difficult, but achievable. 13's in an h powered civic shouldnt be hard at all. As for cams, are you wanting something that requires no valvetrain work at all? I.E. no uprgarded springs or retainers?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by THC07 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a h22a4, from what i understand the compression is very low. id say about 9.8:1.

I just bought some type s pistons and rods. If i mill the head .030 the compression calculator says 11.7:1 w/ the type s pistons. is that too much? .020 says 11.4:1.

i dunno what i should do, i plan on getting cams (stg 1) and adj cam gears next.

when i did a compression check i got 160 across the board, i know thats kinda low. but the engine runs good.

any input would be great. daily driver, that has to run low 13's.</TD></TR></TABLE>

why dont u just put the type s pistons on your a4 rods. u can do it your self. a4 dont have pressed rist pins. they have c clamps. and if your gonna mill the head dont do 2 much. them valves get real close to the pistons as it is.

 

clay the pistons and you will know exactly how much room you have to work with.

 

+1 for clay

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by egcoupe94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

well...when you originally posted, you didnt say what car. So an h22a4 naturally comes in a 5th gen prelude, which are consider the fatty of the prelude. So low 13's in a 5th gen all motor is difficult, but achievable. 13's in an h powered civic shouldnt be hard at all. As for cams, are you wanting something that requires no valvetrain work at all? I.E. no uprgarded springs or retainers?</TD></TR></TABLE>

sorry for lack of info. correct, i do not want to do any head work yet. i dont want to spend a **** load of money on the cams either, what are my options?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmlude5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

why dont u just put the type s pistons on your a4 rods. u can do it your self. a4 dont have pressed rist pins. they have c clamps. and if your gonna mill the head dont do 2 much. them valves get real close to the pistons as it is.</TD></TR></TABLE>

the pistons that i bought are ballanced and so are the rods. whats this clamp and wrist pin anyway? the type s pistons have full floating wrist pins, what ever that means. do the a4 rods differ from the type s?

Im not too sure i wanna mill the head now, id rather put the money somwhere else. thanks for the input btw

 

ttt

 

The wrist pins are floating, i.e. they're not pressed into the rods or the pistons. You don't need any special equipment to install them. Since they're floating, they require some sort of retention to keep the wrist pin from coming out of the piston. Honda uses c-clips that snap into a groove on the piston.

You realize that replacing the pistons requires the block to be honed, right? You can't just slap them in.

 

H22a4 compression is 10:1

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 117 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The wrist pins are floating, i.e. they're not pressed into the rods or the pistons. You don't need any special equipment to install them. Since they're floating, they require some sort of retention to keep the wrist pin from coming out of the piston. Honda uses c-clips that snap into a groove on the piston.

You realize that replacing the pistons requires the block to be honed, right? You can't just slap them in.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes i understand that. thanks for filling me in on the wrist pins. any other precautions you'd like to tell me b4 i put them in? honed block, each ring facing a different direction, new rod bearings, should i use the rods that are on the type s or should i use my a4 rods?
the type s pistons are just good for compression right? cant i just mill the head and have the same results of a higher compression, around 11:1?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by THC07 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yes i understand that. thanks for filling me in on the wrist pins. any other precautions you'd like to tell me b4 i put them in? honed block, each ring facing a different direction, new rod bearings, should i use the rods that are on the type s or should i use my a4 rods?
the type s pistons are just good for compression right? cant i just mill the head and have the same results of a higher compression, around 11:1?</TD></TR></TABLE>

ur a4 rods will be fine. get everything on your rotating assembly balanced. and if you dont do anything to the crank or main journals(ie align hone) then go to honda, and get the exact same bearings that you have in your car right now. if oyu get it align honed(dont do it if its not needed) then take you're entire rotating assembly to the shop and have them balance it all, and also check your bearing clearances t know which color bearings to order.e

 

Have a machine shop inspect both sets of rods (check all dimensions and magnaflux), and use which are in the best shape, if you don't want to buy new rods.

 

.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 117 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You realize that replacing the pistons requires the block to be honed, right? You can't just slap them in.</TD></TR></TABLE>

the machine shop said i cannot hone H series blocks. because of the coding. said i have to sleeve it or get another block

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by THC07 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

sorry for lack of info. correct, i do not want to do any head work yet. i dont want to spend a **** load of money on the cams either, what are my options?

the pistons that i bought are ballanced and so are the rods. whats this clamp and wrist pin anyway? the type s pistons have full floating wrist pins, what ever that means. do the a4 rods differ from the type s?

Im not too sure i wanna mill the head now, id rather put the money somwhere else. thanks for the input btw </TD></TR></TABLE>

im saying that a4 have full floating also. instead of doing the whole bearing thing. just use th a4 rods and there will need to match bearings and all that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by THC07 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">.

the machine shop said i cannot hone H series blocks. because of the coding. said i have to sleeve it or get another block</TD></TR></TABLE>

i have put rings in my h22a. i just used a real fine sand paper like for wet sanding. burns no oil. a guy that works at this honda dealership told me that. and it worked.

 

also remember which rod goes to what cylinder. dont mix them up. bottom end r balenced and blue printed from the factory. each bearing is a diff size. like the rods.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by THC07 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">.

the machine shop said i cannot hone H series blocks. because of the coding. said i have to sleeve it or get another block</TD></TR></TABLE>

they are lying, it can be honed, there is just a different process you have to go through. It takes longer, and they dnt want to do it. Its b/c the h series have FRM sleeves

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by egcoupe94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

they are lying, it can be honed, there is just a different process you have to go through. It takes longer, and they dnt want to do it. Its b/c the h series have FRM sleeves</TD></TR></TABLE>

Alot of machince shops do not have the right equipment to do the FRM correctly also

 

I put this in the other post also. this is what i was told by the guy who sold me the pistons. its good info for the searchers

"Hey, I'm glad you are happy with the pistons. As far as the rings they
are factory Honda rings. The pistons aren't an A or B. The A and B thing
really only applies to the origional factory installed pistons. When you order
OEM replacements like theese or any others, they do not specify "A" or "B".
Since you are honing the cylinders it won't matter anymore anyway so
you can put them in any cylinder you like. Also I included bearings with the
rods, make sure they are the same color as the ones you are pulling out, if
they are not, don't use them as your clearances will be incorrect. Just a
word of advice when honing your engine. Honda is very specific about honing
theese engines because they use fiber reinforced cylinders or FRM as it is
sometimes called. You should only use a rigid hone with a stone of 600
grit or higher, also you can only hone for twenty revolutions and every five
you need to pull out the hone and clean the stones and the cylinders. Never
use a ball hone. If you do not follow this procedure your rings will not
seat properly and your engine will burn oil like nobodys business. We don't
mess with the internals of theese motors at the dealer much anymore because
many of the techs would hone the engine improperly just because they didn't
know any better and it would burn oil and smoke like crazy. Then the
customer would be pissed and we would have to tear the engine down again to fix
it. it is a good design and is still being used in the F20C and F22C in the
S2000s, they just needs special care when working with the internals.
The factory service manual is a great resource when building one of theese
motors. Let me know how it turns out."
Matt

 

...im runnin type S pistons in mines... i used a manual honing kit I rented... you dont have to hone ur cylinder walls to run type s pistons... theyre coated just like the stock pistons... so ur fine.. unless ur walls are scratched or something...then u might think about honing..
and many machine shops are scared to mess with aluminum blocks... thats why theyre lying to you ..