Hey guys Im looking at some of eagles Engine packages and my friend who runs a performance shop game me a killer price on one of there assymblies but before I buy I need some one with experiance answer me a few questions I have.

By the way my wifes car is a 2000 integra type r (currently apart)

myquestions are:

Can you stroke the stock B18c5 block?

Is 82mm the biggest bore I can go with out sleeving?

Head is skunk pro2s and supporting valvetrain including valves from skunk.

Whats the most extreme I can go with this block and still drive it on the street?(im prepared to have to run 110 or 100 octane if need be)

We want to run 12s on motor. I did alot of of searching lastnight but no one was keeping there b18c5 block. My wife insist on keeping that block so getting an ls vtec or b20 block is out of the question. Who on here is running 12 in there type r that can give me some pointers? Theres one guy on here running 12.2 at like 113 on motor in his type r but i couldent find him.

I have the money and time to do this. but remeber im trying to stay away from sleeving I know that sounds weired. thanks.

 

LS crank and rods is the cheapest way to go for 89mm stroke

 

in on this..

 

Keep the block buy an ls crank, some ls rods, arp rod bolts, and some P30 pistons. With the right boltons it should be a 12sec car; if car isn't too heavy.

 

This is sounding promising. I have a friend who is selling his b20 crank,I dont know what brond long stroke rods, 85mm 14.1 pistons. I thinking about round his stuff up depending on how my reaserch goes.

I know you guys are saying ls rods and crank but what about b20 stuff, will they fit?

 

ls and b20 rods and crank are the same. why are you opposed to sleeving and not stroking?

 

doood- We decited to go ahead and sleeve to 85mm (golden eagle).

Anybody know the price on that? I went to the website but no price.

 

camp1320 has the best prices on golden eagle sleeving

 

anybody know if you have to remove the piston squirters on the b18c's if you stroke them? any downfall to removing them?

 

Or you could just try to find the JDM 2.0L B18C5 like in doood's sig

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spun Vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Or you could just try to find the JDM 2.0L B18C5 like in doood's sig
</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL. I've been looking, have had zero luck. lol That ranks up there with the "stage 3 vtec solenoid" I've heard about.

But really...is it a good idea to not use the piston squirters? every stroker kit says you have to remove them (for a b18c)

 

the squirters arent really needed when running forged internals. take them out and plug the holes.

 

EDIT: reading owns me

 

What is the stock compression ratio for the ITR, usdm and jdm?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicandy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What is the stock compression ratio for the ITR, usdm and jdm? </TD></TR></TABLE>

USDM = 10.6:1

JDM = 11.1:1

 

Thanks. What does your motor put down for hp, minus the nitrous?

 

I'll let you know once I find out in a few weeks time. I'm just finishing puting everything together now and once completed, I will be tuning everything.

The main thing I changed from my old setup was my stock B16a short block for a new b18c5 short block from Acura as well as cams ( I ran S2S1's on my B16). My old setup made 160hp and 111TQ all motor and 231hp 170 Tq on nitrous (75 hp shot).

My new setup should be a solid performer.

 

Stay 1.8L Try to make power out of it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DA_JDM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Stay 1.8L Try to make power out of it </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm on this fence. Is there really any advantage to going to 2.0L? I wonder how much more hp and tq. that really makes, compared to the cost. I want to have solid 200whp numbers. I'm thinking a gsr block, jdm itr pistons, b16 head and 2 layer headgasket will yeild that, along with a good valvetrain, cams and header

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00Red_SiR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'll let you know once I find out in a few weeks time. I'm just finishing puting everything together now and once completed, I will be tuning everything.

The main thing I changed from my old setup was my stock B16a short block for a new b18c5 short block from Acura as well as cams ( I ran S2S1's on my B16). My old setup made 160hp and 111TQ all motor and 231hp 170 Tq on nitrous (75 hp shot).

My new setup should be a solid performer.</TD></TR></TABLE>

danm that nitrous made that b16 scream

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alterdcreations &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

danm that nitrous made that b16 scream</TD></TR></TABLE>


It did! That's what I like about nitrous the most, it's there if you really need it and when you don't you have a very reliable and quick daily driver. Perfect compromise for me.