installed a set of blox competition-series type c a month ago. which is supposed to be jun 3 copy according to blox, and jun 3 should idle like stock, i m using stock rocker arms tho.

car was already tuned (by jason, "Blown90hatch") few weeks ago, but car still won't idle , tuner told me it was the throttle cable bracket on the manifold, i changed it but still doing the same. i had to tighten the cable to make it idle at 1500-1800 rpm to stay idle if i drop it to 1000-1500 rpm, it will fluctuates a few times and die.also when i m driving down the road and come to a stop light or push the clutch in, it will die unless i keep my foot on the gas. also, when i first crank the car up after parked it overnight or few hours, it will idle for a few minutes and then it starts fluctuates and die after 3 or 4 fluctuations.

my setup is: jdm gsr, pr3 pistons, single layer HG, blox IM, 370cc injectors, blox c(jun 3 copy), skunk2 gears at ex_0/in_+2, omnipower valvestrain, tuned w/ cromePro by jason who is already not in town.
i was thinking that would it be my cams, or my tuning, or maybe my single layer headgasket that need specific cam gears setting. i replaced IAC valve, checked for vacum leaks already. same **** !
all u pros out there, pls help...

 

i thought that the blox b the ones that are modeled after the skunk2 stage 2's which were modeled after the jun3 cams.

i think the type c is like a freaking huge cam

 

 

That's a tuning problem. You need to get it retuned, possibly by someone else.

If that's a street tune, then yeah. YOu need to hit a dyno and get it really tunes. It's not your throttle cable. THat's an excuse for not being able to set the afr at idle.

 

have you checked your TPS sensor?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkankyEJ7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i thought that the blox b the ones that are modeled after the skunk2 stage 2's which were modeled after the jun3 cams.

i think the type c is like a freaking huge cam</TD></TR></TABLE>

i think the blox b is very close to s2s2, and s2s2 is modeled after jun 3 but not exact, the blox c is exact same copy of jun 3. this is what i found out from blox.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybridmiklo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's a tuning problem. You need to get it retuned, possibly by someone else.

If that's a street tune, then yeah. YOu need to hit a dyno and get it really tunes. It's not your throttle cable. THat's an excuse for not being able to set the afr at idle.</TD></TR></TABLE>

it was street tuned and then dyno tuned, made 185 whp sae corrected(some told me its kind of low) jason is supposed to be pretty good, perhaps he didn't spend enough time on it. i'll try find another tuner. thx a lot. any other input ?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chillinit &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">have you checked your TPS sensor?</TD></TR></TABLE>
it was replaced while doing the swap coz it threw a code, this one works fine from previous b-series motor. thx for reminding me, any other input ?

 

if they are Jun3 copies, i can't see why you have any idling problems. those cams idle perfect all of the time. the problem must lie elsewhere, or, you got the pro series copies

 

the box says type c, i bought from an-r and they told me abt the pro series copy too, but andrew from an-r recommends me type c for my set up. plus i did checked all the vacum and the iac plus the tps, none has problem, anymore input, thx tho.

 

Blox C

 

thx for the input. more ?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ignom &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Blox C </TD></TR></TABLE>

would be better if you help porting the head.

 

Call BLOX, they should be able to help you.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rare92gsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i think the blox b is very close to s2s2, and s2s2 is modeled after jun 3 but not exact, the blox c is exact same copy of jun 3. this is what i found out from blox.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

nah the s2s2 is 12.3 mm and the jun3 is 12mm at like 264 duration where the s2s2 and the blox b's are BOTH 266

if im not mistake are not the type c' like similar to the hsl's

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DonF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Call BLOX, they should be able to help you.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thx, i just did, they asked me to use different settings on cam gears, i finally set them at ex_+2/in_0, it works a lot better now, at least it won't die but still fluctautes once in a while when driving and push the clutch in, i will mess with it a little more, thanks don for the advice.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkankyEJ7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

nah the s2s2 is 12.3 mm and the jun3 is 12mm at like 264 duration where the s2s2 and the blox b's are BOTH 266

if im not mistake are not the type c' like similar to the hsl's</TD></TR></TABLE>

that's what i meant, s2s2 and jun 3(type C) have totally different spec. but s2s2 is close to blox "B". but hsl is wayyyy different than the type c. thx.

 

advance the timing on your cam gear, make life easier and get adjustable cam gears..... adjust intake side only since the distribtor is on that side!!!!!!

 

i m going to try, thx.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rare92gsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

that's what i meant, s2s2 and jun 3(type C) have totally different spec. but s2s2 is close to blox "B". but hsl is wayyyy different than the type c. thx. </TD></TR></TABLE>

blox b I 12.4mm @ 266
E 11.98mm @266
s2s2 I 12.4mm @ 266
E 11.9mm @ 265

jun 3
NTAKE lift - 12.0 mm, duration 267 @ 1mm
EXHAUST lift - 10.9 mm, duration 265 @ 1mm

type c
Intake: Duration: 268° @ 0.04in Lift: .481in = 12.2mm
Exhaust: Duration: 264° @ 0.04in Lift: .458in =11.6mm

i didnt realize that the type c were so close, but they dont make/sell the type c anymore

i dont think its anything with the cams cause cause ive jun3's on a us itr motor with trashed rings idle perfect. i think its something else

 

why are you adjusting your gears without knowing even what power your making?

 

just wanna fix the idling, will get it retune again soon, thanks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkankyEJ7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

blox b I 12.4mm @ 266
E 11.98mm @266
s2s2 I 12.4mm @ 266
E 11.9mm @ 265

jun 3
NTAKE lift - 12.0 mm, duration 267 @ 1mm
EXHAUST lift - 10.9 mm, duration 265 @ 1mm

type c
Intake: Duration: 268° @ 0.04in Lift: .481in = 12.2mm
Exhaust: Duration: 264° @ 0.04in Lift: .458in =11.6mm

i didnt realize that the type c were so close, but they dont make/sell the type c anymore

i dont think its anything with the cams cause cause ive jun3's on a us itr motor with trashed rings idle perfect. i think its something else</TD></TR></TABLE>

blox told me that the advertised duration for the type c is supposed to be different from jun 3 coz of copyright purposes. the actually spec is the same, i guess it's different coz if jun3 , the car would hv idle at 0,0 etting.

 

I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WHEN I GOT MY BLOX C IN. I HAD IT TUNED FOR CHEAP THE CAR IDLED LIKE CRAP AND MY HP WAS NOT GOOD, I HAD TO PUT MY FOOT ON THE GAS LIKE U. BUT AFTER I GOT MY CAR RE TUNED BY SOME ONE GOOD ALL THE PROBLEMS WENT AWAY. SO MOST LIKELY I WOULD GET I RE TUNED BY SOMEONE ELSE.