d16y8 oil pan
Hey I'm going to be taking my car in to get a new oil pan. Mine is pretty mangled. I was just wondering what is the estimated time to take it off and replace it? I don't want them to tell me a ridiculous amount of hours or something! Thanks alot, I appreciate it!
-Brent
-Brent
I have a f22a engine,
once on the lift it takes me about 10 to 15 minutes to take tranny shiled peice off and unscrew 14 or 15 bolts. A complete removal, cleaning (if reusing), gasket placement and reintall should be a max of one hour (if they charge by the hour only).
BTW this is for a different motor but a honda so it should be pretty damn close
PS: If you have jack stands, do it yourself it is pretty simple to do and save money Go by a hamburger or crack jk
. Good luck
once on the lift it takes me about 10 to 15 minutes to take tranny shiled peice off and unscrew 14 or 15 bolts. A complete removal, cleaning (if reusing), gasket placement and reintall should be a max of one hour (if they charge by the hour only).
BTW this is for a different motor but a honda so it should be pretty damn close
PS: If you have jack stands, do it yourself it is pretty simple to do and save money Go by a hamburger or crack jk
. Good luck
Yes the Y8 is very much the same. Although you'll have to remove the exhaust downpipe and that might slow you down if its rusted. But really everything else should be quick. So all in all somewhere between 1-2 hours.
Yeah, I just got back from Acura and they said its a 2 hour job ($95/hr) so thats $200 pretty much. So I'm just going to do it myself. I've never done this before but I'm not afraid to try so we'll see what happens. I'm going to look at some junkyards to find a new oil pan. ONLY the d16y8 oilpan will work correct? The d16y7 (non vtec) won't right? BTW its for my 99 acura 1.6EL
Thanks all for the responses!
Thanks all for the responses!
The Y7 pan will fit a Y8 block, it's the clearing the exhaust that's the issue. The Y7 civics (LX, DX) have different exhausts thatn the Y8 (EX). Now in your case, I don't have a clue about fitment on the Acura EL. Obviously try to match the one you currently have.
The work is easy. Worst case you have a slow leak when you're done. I like to clean up any oil and grease in and around the pan after I'm done so its easy to detect any leaks. The only thing I can think of to be careful of is to torque the bolts down in a criss-cross pattern and DON'T OVER TIGHTEN. Also, recheck the torque after a few runs.
Good luck.
The work is easy. Worst case you have a slow leak when you're done. I like to clean up any oil and grease in and around the pan after I'm done so its easy to detect any leaks. The only thing I can think of to be careful of is to torque the bolts down in a criss-cross pattern and DON'T OVER TIGHTEN. Also, recheck the torque after a few runs.
Good luck.
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If i was u i would buy the y8 oil pan and a gasket & then do it yourself. Save the money that sumone would charge u for sumthing else on your car. It dosent take long at all. Take off the flywheel cover first, its a couple 3 or 4 bolts. Then the oil pan. I counted 18-10mm bolts on that. Also u might have to take off part of your exhaust manifold to get the oil pan dropped.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zostblom »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If i was u i would buy the y8 oil pan and a gasket & then do it yourself. Save the money that sumone would charge u for sumthing else on your car. It dosent take long at all. Take off the flywheel cover first, its a couple 3 or 4 bolts. Then the oil pan. I counted 18-10mm bolts on that. Also u might have to take off part of your exhaust manifold to get the oil pan dropped. </TD></TR></TABLE>
You forgot that you have to clean off the block and pan, and regasket them. You also have to retorque the bolts in a certain order to seat it properly.
To the OP, about being charged a "ridiculous" amount of labor time, you apparently don't know how a mechanic works. They have this thing called flat-rate estimates. They look up a job in a book, and it will say "This is a 5 hour job." They charge you for 5 hours worth of work, because their mechanic could be tied up for 5 hours working on your car. Most of the time, these estimates are high to cover the cost of materials, tools, and the employees themselves, while still turning a profit for the business. Doesn't matter if the mechanic took 1 hour, or 16 hours ... you get charged for 5.
You forgot that you have to clean off the block and pan, and regasket them. You also have to retorque the bolts in a certain order to seat it properly.
To the OP, about being charged a "ridiculous" amount of labor time, you apparently don't know how a mechanic works. They have this thing called flat-rate estimates. They look up a job in a book, and it will say "This is a 5 hour job." They charge you for 5 hours worth of work, because their mechanic could be tied up for 5 hours working on your car. Most of the time, these estimates are high to cover the cost of materials, tools, and the employees themselves, while still turning a profit for the business. Doesn't matter if the mechanic took 1 hour, or 16 hours ... you get charged for 5.
sorry i wasnt meaning to tell him how to do the whole job i was just telling him how to get it dropped. Oviously u have to clean the block and regasket it. Then how about u buy a haynes or a chilton book on the car. It tells u how to do it EXACTLY!!!
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