Once it's been proof read by others, I'll add a posting in the "technical" section, but here it is for all you EF guys first.

It's always bugged me when people complain about removing the transmission shift linkage "bitch pin".

Almost always somebody says that you should just beat it out with a hammer.

Now that just bothers the hell out of me due to the transmission case being aluminum!!!

So;

Here is a write-up on how to do it without (indirectly) beating on your transmission case with a BFH.

http://www.performanceforum.co....html

Please tell me what you think.

Wes

 

 

Great post. I smashed my finger so hard that I almost passed out attempting to take a bitch pin out. I really like that method.. i use the exact same bit with a hammer actually.

however, where i live sometimes the pin is rusted really bad due to salt.. I recommend people soak the pin in penetrating oil the day before the swap before trying this method -- it makes a difference

 

"With the shift rod out of the car, use a hammer (dang, I really didn't want to say that) to tap the bitch pin partially in place. "

The last sentence of comment is untrue! You need a hammer for putting it back in, say during removal and you're good.

Otherwise excellent write-up, good job

 

JustAnotherRex;

You can (and I do) use a C clamp to push the pin in place, once under the car.

I guess I could have said that I used a vise to get the initial placement of the pin, but it's not true.

The key point is that you DON'T have to use a hammer anywhere near the transmission.

Wes

 

cool thread, thats how ive been doing it for years

never thought about doing a write up though, nice work

 

Thanks Wes, your page is a source of a lot D.I.Y. knowledge

 

great write up

 

eh, still, with the proper size punch you should have no problem doing it the good old fashioned whacking method.

nice writeup nonetheless

 

same way you seperate Ujoints.

Umm.. I always just put a soaked cold rag on the part with the rubber in it, heated the bitch pin up with a torch and knocked it flyin in 1 light tap with a hammer, then cooled the rubber parts on the linkage so the bushings dont melt.. Worked for me everytime.

If your just pulling it apart to drop in your new swap/linkage i just cut the shiftlinkage off with a torch.

This is a very good method though!

 

BTW wes just wanted to say your write ups are always solid

everytime i attempt to do one i find myself getting into the job and having basically no pictures of the process at the end

 

Excellent write up!

 

bump

 

bump

 

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Wes V &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's always bugged me when people complain about removing the transmission shift linkage "bitch pin".

Almost always somebody says that you should just beat it out with a hammer.

Now that just bothers the hell out of me due to the transmission case being aluminum!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
FWIW, I have never heard of anyone damaging a transmission case by trying to remove the linkage spring pin with a hammer, so I don't think your fears are really founded.

Still, your method is an elegant, easy way to remove the pin without much fuss, so you get a

 

As always, great writeup, Wes. I'm going to try it next time.

 

why isnt this pinned yet?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks Wes, your page is a source of a lot D.I.Y. knowledge </TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fireant &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As always, great writeup, Wes. I'm going to try it next time.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Best part it about Wes post/write up it is good/true info

 

I agree, good write up, and, while there may not necessarily be damage from a hammer to the trans case, when people beat the spring pin out with a hammer, they usually end up deforming it and cause a problem for the next owner or mechanic.

I have also seen some people replace the pin with a high grade bolt and self locking nut, then use a small screw type clamp instead of the c clip to retain it. Seems to work pretty well.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RSZero1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have also seen some people replace the pin with a high grade bolt and self locking nut, then use a small screw type clamp instead of the c clip to retain it. Seems to work pretty well.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not a good idea. Using a bolt in place of the spring pin introduces a noticeable bit of play in the linkage.

 

thanks you wes. you always have the most useful information.