Ok ls/vtec installed a CTR intake manifold from a B16 manifold ls throttle body swapped everything over now the car is idleing at like 500
what could it be tryed another throttle body still the same
any info would help
thanks....

 

on anything Ive ever owned its idled at 500 rpm. Im pretty sure thats normal.

 

I've never owned a car that idled under 800-900 rpms. check for a tiny vacuum leak some where.

 

I think when I installed my intake manifoled my IDLE dropped too, all you gotta do is adjust it again.

 

adjust what the idle screw?
Its all the way out...

 

would a itr throttle body gasket w/ a ls throttle body cause this problem?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr_Moos &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">adjust what the idle screw?
Its all the way out...</TD></TR></TABLE>

You're not supposed to adjust that because a computer controls that. Do you even know what that screw is all about? I'd explain but it would take a loooong time. Anyway, dont adjust that. It's set at the factory. If you adjust it, your ECU will just adjust ITSELF against the screw...and you'll have to keep screwing with it till the ECU cant adjust itself any further and the CEL will turn on (OBD2). Or it will continue to idle like ****.

You probably have the TPS plugged into the MAP and vice versa. Is your Idle air control plugged in? Do you have that plug swapped with the EVAP plug? If your Idle air is not plugged in, it will idle very low and it will be erratic when you're trying to take off...the car will buck.

 

Not sure if the gasket will effect it, unless it has diffrent holes tha are plugged off. Try adjusting the idle screw

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You're not supposed to adjust that because a computer controls that. Do you even know what that screw is all about? I'd explain but it would take a loooong time.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well since you brought it up, why don't you explain it, since you know exactly what it is.

And include any sources you got your information from too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CleanLikeJdm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Well since you brought it up, why don't you explain it, since you know exactly what it is.

And include any sources you got your information from too.</TD></TR></TABLE>

are you serious??

The idle screw is set at the factory. Your idle control motor's piston position is based upon this screw. The ecu learns the screw's position and sets the idle control's parameters (how far in/out it can go). If you mess with the screw, the ECU will have to change the parameters for the NEW screw position that you set. The idle will first become better or maybe shittier....it will return to the way it was originally after the ECU relearns the parameters. If the ECU cannot adjust the idle air piston to the parameters you set because you set it too far out, it will set a check engine light on an OBD2 car. On an OBD1 car, or OBD0, the ECU will set the parameters as far as it can. After that, the car idles the way it idles....but not correctly. Your fuel are dependent on this (this is the long part...again dont wanna type it all out, but i'll give you the short and dirty). The idle air bypass airflow and fuel mix settings are based off readings from the prior piston position of the IAC motor..and other things like 02 sensor readings, MAP readings, temp readings, etc. If the piston's parameters are out of wack, the ECU will do its best to correct, but it wont be able to change the idle even if other readings are telling it to. Your fuel maps are based on alogarythms. Honda uses a speed/density system. The air temp, and the pressure readings are converted into a reading for how much air is inside the intake manifold at any given time. The alogrhythm is out put to the IAC piston. If the ECU cannot precisely adjust the piston of the IAC, the next alogrhytm becomes a guessing game based on other variables. The ECU doesnt know or recognize the ACTUAL position or how much of an opening there is for air to enter. So how can it possibly set it accurately for the next cycle? The IAC is the only way for air to enter the engine with the throttle closed. So the ECU really needs to know where it is to control the air coming in. If it cant do that correctly, it will keep trying to search...causing an erratic idle AGAIN. OBD2 computers with a logic module will realize there is a mechanical fault, and will set a CEL. OBD1 and dumber ECUs will only set a CEL for electrical shorts and electrical opens. They will just "do their best" to put your idle mixture correctly. But it wont be correct. &lt;~~this is all true for the throttle plate in the closed or slightly open position.


Read my first post for the shortened version.

Look it up or read a book if you dont believe me.

You sound like you have something to say to contest what im saying. If so, please do.

 

ok but this still isnt explaining why my car is all messed up now since only thing different is I used the throttle body gasket that came w/ the intake manifold
Pretty much it drops to 500 like its gonna die then jumps to 1000 then drops to 500 feels like its gonna die then jumps back up....

Edit read post above me more closely so your saying my iac got messed up from me unbolting it and rebolting it to new manifold? and how would I adjust the iac?

I also bolted the IAT sensor to the manifold before I had it hanging in the engine bay because my b16 mani didnt have spot for it... I then took the sensor back out and blocked the hole on the manifold before I did that when the sensor was in the manifold car would not idle at all it would just die..........


Modified by Mr_Moos at 11:52 PM 3/6/2007

 

you cant adjust the iacv. what you can do is take it off and clean all the carbon off the inside with brake clean/carb clean. bolt it back up and then you can set your idle speed. the helms manual says you can adjust the idle speed screw if you have to. but it is painted and if the seal is broke then you know it has already been messed with and you'd better adjust it anyways. with the iacv unplugged your idle should be at 480 +/- 50 rpm's. Once it's plugged back in it should be 750 +/- 50 rpm's. But it sounds like youre probably fine. your intake manifold pressure has dropped with the larger runners of the ctr manifold. i could be wrong so please correct me if im wrong. g'luck

 

subscribed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You sound like you have something to say to contest what im saying. If so, please do. </TD></TR></TABLE>

After the whole flywheel thing, I'm more reluctant to believe most things now.

Oh and, screendoors are never anyone's friend.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr_Moos &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok but this still isnt explaining why my car is all messed up now since only thing different is I used the throttle body gasket that came w/ the intake manifold
Pretty much it drops to 500 like its gonna die then jumps to 1000 then drops to 500 feels like its gonna die then jumps back up....

Edit read post above me more closely so your saying my iac got messed up from me unbolting it and rebolting it to new manifold? and how would I adjust the iac?

I also bolted the IAT sensor to the manifold before I had it hanging in the engine bay because my b16 mani didnt have spot for it... I then took the sensor back out and blocked the hole on the manifold before I did that when the sensor was in the manifold car would not idle at all it would just die..........


Modified by Mr_Moos at 11:52 PM 3/6/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>


What? I said you might have some PLUGS switched. Like..electrical connector PLUGS. The plugs for the MAP/TPS are the same, and the plugs for the IAC/EVAP are the same.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1badteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you cant adjust the iacv. what you can do is take it off and clean all the carbon off the inside with brake clean/carb clean. bolt it back up and then you can set your idle speed. the helms manual says you can adjust the idle speed screw if you have to. but it is painted and if the seal is broke then you know it has already been messed with and you'd better adjust it anyways. with the iacv unplugged your idle should be at 480 +/- 50 rpm's. Once it's plugged back in it should be 750 +/- 50 rpm's. But it sounds like youre probably fine. your intake manifold pressure has dropped with the larger runners of the ctr manifold. i could be wrong so please correct me if im wrong. g'luck</TD></TR></TABLE>

No your manifold pressure wont drop. If there was no computerized IAC, it would raise. The engine size and capacity for suction is the same...but the manifold is bigger. So there would be more risidual pressure WITHOUT a computer controlled IAC. The car in question DOES have a computer controlled IAC. Which means it will move its piston in/out and adjust idle till the MAP readings make sense for the RPM. Computers are awful rad

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What? I said you might have some PLUGS switched. Like..electrical connector PLUGS. The plugs for the MAP/TPS are the same, and the plugs for the IAC/EVAP are the same. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'd bet money on the plugs being switched. This is what was wrong w/my Bro's CRX when he did a swap.. Idle'd too low. Swapped the plugs: Purred like a kitten!

 

Ok found the prob well kinda the EVAP hose was disconnected now she idles at like 1600 but atleast shes staying alive....