I just read this thread (https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1910660) about somebody else's car doing something similar to mine (a metallic cricket sound), but my car also has other symptoms, so that's why I started a new thread.

<U>Symptoms (car running & idling/while driving):</U>

1. Cricket-chirp symptoms:
-when the clutch pedal is not pressed, the chirping can be heard (in neutral/while idling as well as during driving).
-when the clutch pedal is pressed to the floor, the chirping goes away
-the frequency of the chirp can be "played with" (e.g. the chirps seem to occur in a faster pattern as the pedal is being pushed in than they were occurring at normal idle)
-sometimes the chirp doesn't occur at all while the car is running.
-sometimes the chirp can be heard at different volumes: occurring louder or softer than, say, the previous trip's chirp.

2. Speedometer Symptoms: this weekend when I was driving on the freeway, I noticed an inconsistency in the way the speedometer needle moved! I was holding a steady speed and then when I accellerated (or decellerated) the speedo needle would start to move at a consistent rate and then fluctuate back and forth. Example: Cruising at 75... added throttle (but nowhere near flooring it) and needle moved upwards towards 80 at a consistent rate, then started wiggling back and forth between 80 and 85 mph before holding consistent speed again (at, say, 85) when I stopped acceleration.

3. Idle Symptoms:
-the idle revs high sometimes -- around 2k rpms; either after initial "cold" start-up or even when I stop at a red light and wait (after the car has fully warmed up)... the car revs high, then drops below 1k rpms, and eventually settles around 800 rpms with the stock ECU)

4. Ignition Symptoms:
-sometimes I'll turn the key to start the car and nothing happens... sometimes for about 1 second, sometimes as long as 5 seconds?! Then the car starts up like it's thinking, "Yeah, I just didn't want to start right away," or something, haha.

4. Check Engine Light/Codes:
17: "VSS - speed sensor" (This one was pulled with my Hondata s300 program prior to last weekend)
54: "CKF - crank fluctuation sensor" (This one was pulled via shorting out the service plug this weekend / after code 17 had been pulled)

(*both of the code descriptions above were retrieved from: my Hondata program/Hondata's website)

According to a Google search, codes 17 & 54 are as follows:
17: "P0017 Cam/Crankshaft Position Correlation Sensor B - Bank 1"
54: "P0054 HO2S Bank 1 Sen 2 Heater Resistance"

Car History:
-the transmission was out of the car about 40k ago when other work was being done. i bought a new throw out bearing and pilot bearing, and they were supposed to have gone in during that same repair, but maybe they didn't get put in.
-the stock CAT of my ITR is hollow (thank you, previous owner ) and my secondary o2 sensor doesn't work. This last weekend, I switched out that CAT/sensor for a stock CAT and borrowed/working o2 sensor, but upon start-up, the R threw code 54. (FYI: I switched the same stock CAT + same borrowed o2 sensor in for emissions last year and it worked.)
-the previous owner beat the crap out of the car, so I bought it as a repair job to learn as I go. Problem is, he butt-connected a lot of wires: some that come from the car and go to the ECU plugs, some under the driverside dash (by the fuses), and some even in the engine bay. I hate that kid so much, LOL!

Questions:
1. Is the only way to pinpoint the chirping location to listen by ear/tear the transmission apart and replace parts "at random"?
2. What could cause the car to idle so inconsistently?
3. Why would the speedometer fluctuate like it is?
4. Could all of these problems be related?

I am going to try to get video/audio of the speedo needle/cricket chirping to further explain the symptoms (if necessary/requested). I haven't had luck with the audio yet - any advice for capturing it using a device that can handle the sounds of an engine bay and still allow the chirp to be heard?

Sorry if these topics were covered in other threads... I couldn't seem to find anything that answered my concerns. And, any advice is GREATLY appreciated. All of these things are happening right before my emissions are due and I can't get the car tested until I figure out how to fix them or make the DOT not see that they exist. If you need any further clarifications, please let me know!

Thank you in advance!
~Melanie

 

are you trying to fix th problems yourself, or are you just trying to make an educated guess before taking it to a repair shop/mechanic?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GUILOTINE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are you trying to fix th problems yourself, or are you just trying to make an educated guess before taking it to a repair shop/mechanic?</TD></TR></TABLE>

An educated guess. I'm also working with my mechanic (who happens to be in California) over phone/email, so that's why I'm branching out for more people's advice. Thank you for the reply.

 

Sounds to me like you have 2 different problems. Sounds like the TO bearing in the trans, and the VSS sensor as well. The VSS would cause the fluctuation in the needle and the "chirping" would be the TO bearing. I had a bad TO in my GS-R and it acted the same way your describing.

Also, when your guage fluctuates, does it seem like the car comes out of Vtec? Are you even in Vtec when it happens? Sometimes when the VSS is out, or has a loose connection, it can cause it to fall out of Vtec. One quick thing to try with the VSS is to unplug and replug it in a few times and get a good connection. Worked for me at the track one day. Didn't act up at all since.

GL, HTH.

 

As far as the speedometer fluctuating, I would suggest you double check the plug. I've had my speedometer act the same way because it had corrosion and the plug was loose. I just cleaned it up and used some electrical grease to ensure the connection
HTH

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dave_B &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sounds to me like you have 2 different problems. Sounds like the TO bearing in the trans, and the VSS sensor as well. The VSS would cause the fluctuation in the needle and the "chirping" would be the TO bearing. I had a bad TO in my GS-R and it acted the same way your describing.

Also, when your guage fluctuates, does it seem like the car comes out of Vtec? Are you even in Vtec when it happens? Sometimes when the VSS is out, or has a loose connection, it can cause it to fall out of Vtec. One quick thing to try with the VSS is to unplug and replug it in a few times and get a good connection. Worked for me at the track one day. Didn't act up at all since.

GL, HTH.</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GUILOTINE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As far as the speedometer fluctuating, I would suggest you double check the plug. I've had my speedometer act the same way because it had corrosion and the plug was loose. I just cleaned it up and used some electrical grease to ensure the connection
HTH </TD></TR></TABLE>

When the gauge fluctuates, it doesn't seem to be dropping out of Vtec. I'll double check tomorrow though. I'll unplug/replug the VSS and see what happens though.

Thanks!


Modified by R-box at 9:45 PM 3/5/2007

 

By the way, the codes you get from the flashing CEL are NOT "P" codes.
A flash representing 17 is not P0017. You will have to cross-ref to what the P code is.

 

In the last few days' drives:

1. It doesn't drop out of Vtec when the speedometer needle fluctuates/jumps.

2. After unplugging/re-plugging in the VSS plug (I checked for corrosion - there wasn't any), it still fluctuates/jumps upon heavy throttling.

3. Another thread (https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1907066) mentioned that the chirping sound could be due to the input shaft bearing? What is that exactly?

4. Today on the highway, I downshifted into 4th to accelerate and pass other drivers, and after I did that, I could smell stinky exhaust...? Which shouldn't happen? As I said in the original post, I changed out my hollow stock CAT for a non-hollow stock CAT (and I've done it a few times before w/o problems), but there weren't any gaskets on it... there never have been - could this be why I'm smelling exhaust? Man, I hate the previous owner...

Anyway, just an update if anybody has anymore advice.

 

it might not be related, but check all your fuse under the dash, coz there is one fuse will have something to do with fluctuate speedo, BUT for that it would also throw a code for the ELD sensor too, so check the fuse anyway, doesnt take very long.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spoon_ek9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it might not be related, but check all your fuse under the dash, coz there is one fuse will have something to do with fluctuate speedo, BUT for that it would also throw a code for the ELD sensor too, so check the fuse anyway, doesnt take very long.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Haven't checked the fuse yet, but I will if adding some dialectic grease doesn't help the VSS un-stupid itself, ha ha. Gotta try one thing at a time so I know fo' sho' what it was. The reason I'm doing the grease first is because the code, upon being read with a scan tool, came up as "P1336 Engine Speed (RPM) Fluctuation Sensor Intermittent Interruption" soooo... yeah. I'm on a mission.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GUILOTINE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As far as the speedometer fluctuating, I would suggest you double check the plug. I've had my speedometer act the same way because it had corrosion and the plug was loose. I just cleaned it up and used some electrical grease to ensure the connection
HTH </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'd say about a 99% chance that this is the issue with the speedometer. I had the same thing happen a few years ago.

 

Bad ground for speedo? Had the same problem because I forgot to tighten a screw on a back side of cluster.

 

As of tonight:

Codes P0122 and P1336 were pulled by Autozone since I don't have a scan tool myself.

Car is idling around 2k rpms and won't settle any lower.

Speedo is still fluctuating irregularly upon heavy throttle.

Vtec appears to not be engaging.


I'm tired. Goin' to bed. Will think with a refreshed mind in the morning.

Any and all input is appreciated though!

 

Any chance you have itr 616?

 

P0122 Throttle Position (TP) Sensor Circuit Low Input

P1336 Engine Speed (RPM) Fluctuation Sensor Intermittent Interruption

 

Nope, not ITR #616 - is that another Devil R?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by walker111 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">P0122 Throttle Position (TP) Sensor Circuit Low Input

P1336 Engine Speed (RPM) Fluctuation Sensor Intermittent Interruption</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, I had looked them up before my last post ... but my brain hurts. A replacement speed sensor is being sent to me from my mechanic (yay, free parts!), but i don't know what to do about the TPS... i really don't want to buy a whole "new" throttle body.

I just wanna pass emisssssioooooooons, WAAAHHHHHH!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R-box &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A replacement speed sensor is being sent to me from my mechanic (yay, free parts!)</TD></TR></TABLE>

But the problem is most likely just the harness plug, not the sensor itself....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mugen Mike &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

But the problem is most likely just the harness plug, not the sensor itself....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Har-ness... plug...? What do I know? I'm just a girl troubleshooting her R... Seriously though. I'm trying to learn things as I go and electrical stuff always freaks me out.

*drinks newly opened dr. pepper* Mmm... Why, Dr. Pepper, do you make everything better? LOL.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R-box &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> but i don't know what to do about the TPS... i really don't want to buy a whole "new" throttle body. </TD></TR></TABLE>

If you search around here on TPS, the stock one can be removed by cutting slots in the mounting jaunces to unscrew them. Somewhere on here there's a part number for a TPS that works, so you don't have to buy an entire throttle body assy.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by walker111 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">P0122 Throttle Position (TP) Sensor Circuit Low Input

P1336 Engine Speed (RPM) Fluctuation Sensor Intermittent Interruption</TD></TR></TABLE>

Okay, so today I cleaned the CRAP out of the speed sensor and even did a little on the TPS plug. Plugged them back in, took it for a drive, and WOO HOO... VTEC, BABY! NO fluctuating speedo! NO funky idling! SWEET, right?

WRONG.

All was fine until about 20 minutes into my drive... when I was "getting on it" to double check the speedo, etc., and BAM my clutch went mushy! Not complete mush like when you bleed the clutch (and the pedal won't come back up on it's own), but like 1/2 mush? lol. So basically, in order to get home, I had to over-throttle because the clutch wasn't full strength. Oh, just FYI, I have an ACT clutch system so the clutch pedal is way tougher to depress than the stock ITR clutch - that's how I knew something was up - it felt closer to "stock clutch" pressure.

Now I'm completely freaked out about driving the car - I'm worried that my transmission is going to die in the worst way possible, haha , if I keep driving it.
I can't get to my most trusted mechanic for at least two weeks (and he's also in Cali...), but on Monday the 19th, I have to drive back to school - which is 130 miles from where I am now.
What should I do?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Splat &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If you search around here on TPS, the stock one can be removed by cutting slots in the mounting jaunces to unscrew them. Somewhere on here there's a part number for a TPS that works, so you don't have to buy an entire throttle body assy.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't really want to dremel my throttle body just to get the TPS off... to me, that doesn't make much sense? How do you fasten a new TPS on then?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R-box &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Okay, so today I cleaned the CRAP out of the speed sensor and even did a little on the TPS plug. Plugged them back in, took it for a drive, and WOO HOO... VTEC, BABY! NO fluctuating speedo! NO funky idling! SWEET, right?

WRONG.

All was fine until about 20 minutes into my drive... when I was "getting on it" to double check the speedo, etc., and BAM my clutch went mushy! Not complete mush like when you bleed the clutch (and the pedal won't come back up on it's own), but like 1/2 mush? lol. So basically, in order to get home, I had to over-throttle because the clutch wasn't full strength. Oh, just FYI, I have an ACT clutch system so the clutch pedal is way tougher to depress than the stock ITR clutch - that's how I knew something was up - it felt closer to "stock clutch" pressure.

Now I'm completely freaked out about driving the car - I'm worried that my transmission is going to die in the worst way possible, haha , if I keep driving it.
I can't get to my most trusted mechanic for at least two weeks (and he's also in Cali...), but on Monday the 19th, I have to drive back to school - which is 130 miles from where I am now.
What should I do?



I don't really want to dremel my throttle body just to get the TPS off... to me, that doesn't make much sense? How do you fasten a new TPS on then?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You arent going to dremel the tb. The tb is held on 2 screw/rivets, all you do is just notch the screw/rivet, then unscrew the two bolts. Just use to 10mm bolts when re-installing the new tps. This has been done many times with no ill effects.

 

Haha, yeah, last night I found the "notching" idea in another h-t thread. Before I read that, I thought I was meant to dremel into the TB cast - and I thought that was just crazy; "I won't do it"! But now I see/agree/love that you can notch the threaded rods and get a flat head screwdriver in there to loosen the TPS (which is yet to be done).

Also, I was reading up on Honda-Tech and Hondata's site about testing the TPS, so I am going to try to use my s300 to play with that if I can.

I need to get a Helms manual...

(Thank you for all the advice so far, guys, it has really helped!)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R-box &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Okay, so today I cleaned the CRAP out of the speed sensor and even did a little on the TPS plug. Plugged them back in, took it for a drive, and WOO HOO... VTEC, BABY! NO fluctuating speedo! NO funky idling! SWEET, right?

WRONG.

All was fine until about 20 minutes into my drive... when I was "getting on it" to double check the speedo, etc., and BAM my clutch went mushy! Not complete mush like when you bleed the clutch (and the pedal won't come back up on it's own), but like 1/2 mush? lol. So basically, in order to get home, I had to over-throttle because the clutch wasn't full strength. Oh, just FYI, I have an ACT clutch system so the clutch pedal is way tougher to depress than the stock ITR clutch - that's how I knew something was up - it felt closer to "stock clutch" pressure.

Now I'm completely freaked out about driving the car - I'm worried that my transmission is going to die in the worst way possible, haha , if I keep driving it. I can't get to my most trusted mechanic for at least two weeks (and he's also in Cali...), but on Monday the 19th, I have to drive back to school - which is 130 miles from where I am now.

What should I do?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Okay, so I'm thinking that maybe bleeding the clutch might help (but I won't know until my dad gets home to help me)? Last March 2006, my clutch master cylinder just up and died on me one day, so I bought a new one and replaced it myself. This kind of reminds me of that, but in that case, the clutch would slam to the floor with no resistance along the way and would have to be pulled back up with my foot, etc., in order to get it back home.

I am also still pulling Code 54: "CKF - crank fluctuation sensor" (This one was pulled via shorting out the service plug). I just took pics of the plug and might post some in a bit if it looks bad, or whatever.

Any thoughts?

LOL, by the time this car is "100%", I am going to be queen of 'fixing stupid problems'.


Modified by R-box at 2:15 PM 3/15/2007

 

As for the funny smell you smelled, now that you have a operating Cat on the caR you will from time to time get a sulfur odor or some nasty smell....thats fine.

As for your clutch, it could be your master cylinder that gave way. Its like a $300 repair if you take it somewhere.

As for the chirping, I would assume its the throw out bearing. If I were you I would bleed the clutch to maybe check if thats the issue with the clutch, but I am willing to bet something happened with your master cylinder. You should really just take the R to someone who knows what they are looking at, have them drop the tranny and check everything out. Good luck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by totsie7944 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As for the funny smell you smelled, now that you have a operating Cat on the caR you will from time to time get a sulfur odor or some nasty smell....thats fine.

As for your clutch, it could be your master cylinder that gave way. Its like a $300 repair if you take it somewhere.

As for the chirping, I would assume its the throw out bearing. If I were you I would bleed the clutch to maybe check if thats the issue with the clutch, but I am willing to bet something happened with your master cylinder. You should really just take the R to someone who knows what they are looking at, have them drop the tranny and check everything out. Good luck </TD></TR></TABLE>

Is it common for a one-year-old clutch master cylinder to just up and die? Shouldn't they last more than a year's time? Only reason I ask is because I installed a brand new one a year ago and I'ma be cranky if I have to do it again. Will let you peeps know what's up with the clutch later tonight after it's bled.

Yes, I will be taking the R to someone who knows what they're looking at - there's no way I can fix all of this myself, haha. Only reason I haven't already done so is because I'm waiting for money to come through so I can afford the imminent tranny drop. *sigh*

This whole thread was started because I threw Code 54 right before emissions/registration were due... and that due date is today. Yarg.